Oil Change Debacle with Drain Plug?

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

Okay, I've changed oil twice before in the FJR (GenII) with no problems. This time, however, using a torque wrench set at 31, I was inserting and tightening the oil drain bolt and it would NEVER get tight. I can't imagine it wasn't inserted straight in given it never gave me much, if any, resistance. Regardless, I removed it and here is a PIC of it. As you can see, there are 2 to 3 small round metal threads / filaments that are both separate and still attached inside the threads of the bolts. Thoughts??

Gheez ... you'd think I could get thru a oil change without any issues as easy as this is after choosing to take it to the dealer for a brake / clutch bleed and ending up needing a brand new rear master cylinder and in the end a total cost of $500. Just not my Spring so far.

Is the drain plug/bolt a standard size I can pick up at any auto part store??

Any insight is appreciated.

Chiefblueman · May 10, 2014

Those little pieces of metal are the threads out of the oil pan. No bolt is going back in there to stay. 31 ft/lb is too much for the drain plug. Looks like a repair insert is in your future. Sorry

Pterodactyl · May 10, 2014

I believe those are the threads that used to be in the hole in the oil pan. If I'm correct, then you have stripped the threads. You said you were using a torque wrench set at 31. I assume that you mean foot pounds and that seems a bit much to me. I'm too lazy to walk over to my shop and check the service manual at the moment. I hope I'm wrong, but if not you have a problem that will take some time and skill to fix, and asuming you do not do it yourself, some cash.

Denver_FJR · May 10, 2014

Bummer!! It appears you've stripped your oil pan but I wouldn't trust just a replacement bolt to hold now. Need to look into something like time-serts or search around for repair options.

Fred W · May 10, 2014

31 lb-ft is too tight for an oiled thread in soft alloy. You've stripped your oil pan.

You have a couple of options now. Oversized drain plug, time-sert or heli-coil insert, or new oil pan.

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

Yeah, that is what I assumed -- threads from inside the oil pan. Shoot. Also, 31 ft/lb seems to be what it calls for per the '06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II) thread. I believe I saw this spec in another thread as well ??

PhilJet09 · May 10, 2014

The drain bolt isn't your problem here. You stripped the threads right out of your oil pan. You now have two options, repair or replace the oil pan. The torque spec in the manual for that plug is ludicrous...way too high. It's been very well documented on this forum.

Edit

I type way too slow.

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

PhilJet09 said:
The drain bolt isn't your problem here. You stripped the threads right out of your oil pan. You now have two options, repair or replace the oil pan. The torque spec in the manual for that plug is ludicrous...way too high. It's been very well documented on this forum.

Then it would be a really good idea to update the '06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II) thread ... as even though I have the full maintenance manual, I do follow these threads pretty closely and used 31 as the magic number thinking I was being good at my torque settings! Ugh!

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

I can only assume a oil pan 'repair' will be a less expensive option. But, can I rely on it holding up and being a reliable option? If so, what are my options? I believe someone mentioned the following:

Oversized drain plug

Time-sert or Heli-coil insert

I'll do some searching, but if anyone has a specific link to assist, I'd greatly appreciate it. Hopefully, this is something I can fix myself.

Pterodactyl · May 10, 2014

Like many others here I've been installing drain plugs and oil filters a very long time. Never used a torque wrench once; never stripped anything; and, never had anything come loose. I believe in using torque wrenches in most cases, but for oil filters and drain plugs snug enough has always worked.

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

Pterodactyl said:
Like many others here I've been installing drain plugs and oil filters a very long time. Never used a torque wrench once; never stripped anything; and, never had anything come loose. I believe in using torque wrenches in most cases, but for oil filters and drain plugs snug enough has always worked.

Funny (i.e not really) that you say that Pterodactyl because I've NEVER used one either for an oil change. Goes to show that sometimes attempting to be TOO careful can sometimes backfire on you (or on me!)

PhilJet09 · May 10, 2014

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=134680

Pterodactyl · May 10, 2014

woodcycl said:
Pterodactyl said:

Like many others here I've been installing drain plugs and oil filters a very long time. Never used a torque wrench once; never stripped anything; and, never had anything come loose. I believe in using torque wrenches in most cases, but for oil filters and drain plugs snug enough has always worked.

Click to expand...

Funny (i.e not really) that you say that Pterodactyl because I've NEVER used one either for an oil change. Goes to show that sometimes attempting to be TOO careful can sometimes backfire on you (or on me!)

I feel your pain. Keep us posted on how you fix this.

Surly · May 10, 2014

This has been done before, and will be again I am sure.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/16572-another-stripped-oil-pan-bolt/

From your photo there does seem to be a very flat crush washer on your sump plug, do you replace this item often? Of course some with say that it is not necessary but others will say each and every time you change your oil.

PhilJet09 · May 10, 2014

woodcycl said:
PhilJet09 said:

The drain bolt isn't your problem here. You stripped the threads right out of your oil pan. You now have two options, repair or replace the oil pan. The torque spec in the manual for that plug is ludicrous...way too high. It's been very well documented on this forum.

Click to expand...

Then it would be a really good idea to update the '06 - '12 Bin O Facts (Generation II) thread ... as even though I have the full maintenance manual, I do follow these threads pretty closely and used 31 as the magic number thinking I was being good at my torque settings! Ugh! :weirdsmiley:

I agree a bigger warning should be made next to the spec, but it is mentioned here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3945 item 20, last paragraph.

Surly · May 10, 2014

Double post, I think I over torqued it.

woodcycl · May 10, 2014

Thanks everyone. Yeah, looks like the 31 ft/lb spec is WAY too high and is mentioned in several posts. I'll go for a self-tapping oil drain plug tomorrow in hopes that will take care of the repair without any issues. From reading others who have had this issue, this type of repair has worked for them for many oil changes and many miles.

Ignacio · May 10, 2014

woodcycl said:
Thanks everyone. Yeah, looks like the 31 ft/lb spec is WAY too high and is mentioned in several posts.

It's also one of the reasons we strongly suggest you read this thread when you sign up. The torque discussion is #18. There's still a couple dozen other things in there in case you missed something.

JamesW · May 11, 2014

Surly said:
This has been done before, and will be again I am sure.
https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/16572-another-stripped-oil-pan-bolt/

From your photo there does seem to be a very flat crush washer on your sump plug, do you replace this item often? Of course some with say that it is not necessary but others will say each and every time you change your oil.

[Amen for a new crush washer with EVERY change./quote]

Oil Change Debacle with Drain Plug?

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