Reading Michelin Tire markings

I have a set of PR2 ready to mount and have seen discussion here about B tires for the FJR. In the rectangular imprint on the side wall where it mentions max load and PSI stuff, there is a B. Can't see a B anywhere else. Do I have the B or regular?

Pretty sure you have a standard tire. I have run two sets of PR2's, both being (ordered as) the standard tire...and both sets have the markings just as you've described.

--G

Oh, and the small barcode just above the bead is the light spot. Put that where your Valvestem is and you likely won't need any weight.

I haven't on my last two tires since I learned this.

-MD

When I first bought my new PR2's I was looking for the light-spot to locate where the valve stem is located and could not locate any. So I called Michelin. They informed me there are no light spots on those tires because they claim they are perfectly balanced and it does not matter where you locate the tire on your rim.

So I just mounted mine, including new right-angle valve stems, inserted 1oz in front and 2oz in the rear of Dyna-beads and my tires could not be any smoother.

And looking at the side walls of my PR2's, it states "B" on the rear tire. I specially ordered the "B" tire for my FJR.

Big-D said:

When I first bought my new PR2's I was looking for the light-spot to locate where the valve stem is located and could not locate any. So I called Michelin. They informed me there are no light spots on those tires because they claim they are perfectly balanced and it does not matter where you locate the tire on your rim.
So I just mounted mine, including new right-angle valve stems, inserted 1oz in front and 2oz in the rear of Dyna-beads and my tires could not be any smoother.

And looking at the side walls of my PR2's, it states "B" on the rear tire. I specially ordered the "B" tire for my FJR.

Click to expand...

Well, that's the info I got from when I bought my last tire, a PR2 to replace a PR2. The guy asked me who mounted the last tire and I said I did. He asked me if I lined the valve stem up with the bar code and I said nope, didn't know about the bar code.

They then balanced my wheel and removed the 1.25 oz that I had on there and took me over to the tire rack to show me where the barcodes were located, it's a little white sticker about 1" long and 1/4 inch tall.

and you couldn't pay me to use Dyna beads, just sayin.

I don't know about the bar code being the light spot, but I do know that the valve stem is not likely to mark the heavy spot on your rim. Better to put the naked rim (clean rim, wearing just the valve stem) on your balancer and learn for sure where the heavy and light spots are. Make a mark on the rim for future reference.

When balancing a tire that does not indicate a light or heavy spot, it is best to mount the tire, put it on your balancer to find the heavy spot, then break the bead and spin the tire so the heavy spot on your tire aligns with the light spot on the rim.

Big-D said:

............And looking at the side walls of my PR2's, it states "B" on the rear tire. I specially ordered the "B" tire for my FJR.

Click to expand...

Where on the sidewall do I look for the "B"

ibold

Check this link out it goes into details:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...st&p=600133

Geezer said:

I don't know about the bar code being the light spot, but I do know that the valve stem is not likely to mark the heavy spot on your rim. Better to put the naked rim (clean rim, wearing just the valve stem) on your balancer and learn for sure where the heavy and light spots are. Make a mark on the rim for future reference.
When balancing a tire that does not indicate a light or heavy spot, it is best to mount the tire, put it on your balancer to find the heavy spot, then break the bead and spin the tire so the heavy spot on your tire aligns with the light spot on the rim.

Click to expand...

100% correct! I know in my case the heavy spot is at 90 degrees to the valve stem.

jim

Adding my experience to this old thread. I did a search online (including this forum) regarding the PR2s and apparent lack of balance marking. Several people called or wrote to Michelin and the official response was that they do not measure, nor mark the light (or heavy) spots on any of their tires. Well that sucks.

I mounted my rear PR2 randomly. I happen to know that my rear wheel is light by 20 grams exactly at the valve stem. Makes it easy to keep track of. After I inflated the new tire and seated the tire beads I stuck it on the balancer and it took 52 grams to get it balanced, exactly at the valve stem. :glare: So I must have been so lucky to exactly put the tire's light spot at the rim's light spot... :angry:

I didn't feel like breaking the bead on the new tire and rotating the tire on the rim, so unless I have balance problems I'll just run it with two strips of 3 stick on weights plus a 10 g crimp on weight on the wheel.

After the rear fiasco I decided to try aligning the known heavy spot on the wheel with the bar code on the tire. When I balanced the wheel it took only 21 grams of wheel weights and the location was not at the rim's light spot. This is certainly not conclusive, but seems to support the idea that the barcode is the light spot.

By the way, I had a hell of a time spooning on the back tire (non-B spec), but the front one went on like greased lightening. It was one of the few times I have been able to just lube the rim (soapy water) and shove the entire first bead on with no tools. Then the second bead went on very easily too.

Also, for those wanting to use (and re-use) stick on wheel weights, I have a system that works pretty well. First off, before sticking the weights on permanently, find their location by holding them on with a piece of duct tape. Once you know where you're gonna want them permanent like, clean the rim with a good solvent first Goof Off (not Goo Gone) works well.

Then, replace the shitty foam double sided sticky stuff on new weights (or old ones) with this stuff: 3M Auto Trim tape. You can get it in the big box auto stores in the perfect 1/2" width for sticking wheel weights on. It sticks very well, and when it's time to peel the old ones off the adhesive is pretty easy to remove.

Fred W said:

I didn't feel like breaking the bead on the new tire and rotating the tire on the rim, so unless I have balance problems I'll just run it with two strips of 3 stick on weights plus a 10 g crimp on weight on the wheel.

Click to expand...

IMO, 52g is an excessive weight to balance a tire.... pretty much anything above 40-ish grams to balance, I will definitely break the bead and rotate the tire. Yes, it's an ass-pain, but.... I spend an *awful* lot of time above the Ton here in the Desert West, so I don't mind spending the calories/time to get well-balanced wheels that take minimal weight. YMMV, etc

Like I said, I'll do it if I feel a problem,

I just don't understand why Michelin won't mark their damn tires.

They obviously aren't so good that they don't need it. :angry:

Fred W said:

I didn't feel like breaking the bead on the new tire and rotating the tire on the rim, so unless I have balance problems I'll just run it with two strips of 3 stick on weights plus a 10 g crimp on weight on the wheel.

Click to expand...

OK, I need to ask a stupid question; please bear with me...

What's the difference balance-wise of having the beads seated or not? It seems to me that you could put the tire on, not seated, and reposition the tire until it's "optimal"; there is no weight added anywhere that I see with it seated or not; what am I missing?

If the tire isn't fully seated on the rim, you don't know if its mass is in the exact position that it will be (concentrically) when it is seated. You really can't balance a tire on a rim until it is seated on the rim. I wish that it was otherwise...

Good info!

Received my new PR2's and Parne's Balancer today so I'll be working on this adventure here soon. Bought some 90* stems as well.

Here's what I have on my "B" rated tire. These pictures are from the right side as installed.



Note the large letter "B" on the left. The writing says:

"CANADA AND US CODES ONLY"

"MAX LOAD 365 kg (805 lbs)"

"AT 290 kPa (42 p.s.i.) COLD"

and



This writing says:

"TREAD PLIES"

"3 POLYAMIDE" i.e. a cross-linked polyethylene like Dyneema or Spectra

"1 ARAMID" i.e. kevlar

and

"SIDEWALL PLIES"

"3 POLYAMIDE"

If I recall correctly (too lazy to go look right now) the "B" tire sports 3 polyamide sidewall plies while the non "B" only has 2. This results in a stiffer sidewall with some load and handling effects. Stiffer sidewalls result in less flexure under load, more tire "springiness" as in a stiffer spring, and different wear characteristics of the contact patch area, all other things equal. Some here will tell you that you only really need this tire if you ride 2-up or are a heavy rider. I would add that any type of cornering at speeds that loads the bike up will also benefit from a stiffer sidewall, especially when you factor in an uneven road surface. The stiffer tire can provide a little less uncertainty-related excitement when cornering hard on an uneven road.

Cheers,

W2

My reply was not about B or non-B. I know full well that I have non-B tires, as that is what I wanted.

It was about balance marking, of which there appears to be none. Or else, maybe the barcode stamp is a balance mark, but Michelin will not admit to it. They think their balance is so good they don't need no stinking marks.