Checkswrecks
Well-known member
The bar end is installed with a cap screw. First step is to remove the bar end.
You'll need (in order) a large fiber or friction washer, hose washer (for the photos I swapped in a yellow one for the normal black), plastic knob, 6mm stainless nut, some 2-part epoxy such as JB Weld to hold the nut in the knob, a 6mm washer, and a 6mm stainless screw. The knobs come with a hexagonal well to capture a nut, so drill the center of the plastic knob for the 6mm screw and epoxy the nut into the well. Let dry.
You want to make a locking feature for the screw. The knob should rotate, not the screw. About a half-dozen threads from the knob, slightly deform the threads just enough that the screw won't back out of the end of the handlebar.
The friction or fiber washer needs to have an outer diameter that is the size of the grip. The ID slides over the shaft. The rubber hose washer gives some compression, but may not be needed, depending on the type of grips.
Turn in the screw so that there is a visible thread between the knob and the hose washer. The deformed thread should keep the screw in that spot. You can easily use the heel of your hand to rotate the knob on the threads of the screw to put friction on the throttle. Note that these are Gen I heated grips, with the wire preventing a Vista Cruise-type arrangement.
I had the hardware but it should cost under $3 at Home Depot or Lowes. (Going back to the black hose washer now.)
Bob
You'll need (in order) a large fiber or friction washer, hose washer (for the photos I swapped in a yellow one for the normal black), plastic knob, 6mm stainless nut, some 2-part epoxy such as JB Weld to hold the nut in the knob, a 6mm washer, and a 6mm stainless screw. The knobs come with a hexagonal well to capture a nut, so drill the center of the plastic knob for the 6mm screw and epoxy the nut into the well. Let dry.
You want to make a locking feature for the screw. The knob should rotate, not the screw. About a half-dozen threads from the knob, slightly deform the threads just enough that the screw won't back out of the end of the handlebar.
The friction or fiber washer needs to have an outer diameter that is the size of the grip. The ID slides over the shaft. The rubber hose washer gives some compression, but may not be needed, depending on the type of grips.
Turn in the screw so that there is a visible thread between the knob and the hose washer. The deformed thread should keep the screw in that spot. You can easily use the heel of your hand to rotate the knob on the threads of the screw to put friction on the throttle. Note that these are Gen I heated grips, with the wire preventing a Vista Cruise-type arrangement.
I had the hardware but it should cost under $3 at Home Depot or Lowes. (Going back to the black hose washer now.)
Bob
