Fork Seal Driver

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I assume the 2" stainless tube is used to drive the seal driver. The OD of the fork tube is ~48mm and OD of the seal is ~61mm.

Dan

 
Does anyone on this forum have the correct fork seal driver to loan/rent?

Try a 2 inch PVC straight coupler (two female ends - about 2" long), it's a perfect fit over the fork tube and costs about $2 at HomeDepot. I used it several times now to install new seals.

 
Gen-II forks are different than Gen-I. You will need the 2" stainless tubing to drive the middle and upper bushings. Gen-I forks don't have a middle bushing.

The 2" PVC couplers works fine for the seals themselves.

 
Thanks,

I didn't realize that the bushings need to be driven in.

$16.36 for the SS tubing and $16.93 for shipping.

 
The SS tubing is on it's way and should be here by the end of the week. The bushings are also enroute without the lower bushings which are on back-order so I'll have time to plan my attack. If things work out I'll do some video of the process.

 
Got the 07's forks rebuilt over the weekend. I took about 1.5 hours of video that I hope to edit down to a 5-10 minute movie. Many thanks to HaulinAshe for the link to the railing company for the SS tubing. Worked liked a charm to drive in the middle and upper sliders along with 2 inch sched 40 PVC for the seals. I kept the shipping container for the tubing and will make a 'kit' with the capped PVC available to people that want to rebuild their own forks.

Dan

 
Got the 07's forks rebuilt over the weekend. I took about 1.5 hours of video that I hope to edit down to a 5-10 minute movie. Many thanks to HaulinAshe for the link to the railing company for the SS tubing. Worked liked a charm to drive in the middle and upper sliders along with 2 inch sched 40 PVC for the seals. I kept the shipping container for the tubing and will make a 'kit' with the capped PVC available to people that want to rebuild their own forks.

Dan
Now that's cool - a thread with contributions! Waiting for the movie and to see your install tools. Wait, that sounded bad. :eek:
 
Got the 07's forks rebuilt over the weekend. I took about 1.5 hours of video that I hope to edit down to a 5-10 minute movie. Many thanks to HaulinAshe for the link to the railing company for the SS tubing. Worked liked a charm to drive in the middle and upper sliders along with 2 inch sched 40 PVC for the seals. I kept the shipping container for the tubing and will make a 'kit' with the capped PVC available to people that want to rebuild their own forks.

Dan
Hey Dan, you got that "kit" ready to ship yet? I'm going to do my fork seals this week and found this thread looking for that special tool for the seals.

Sending a PM too.

 
Got the 07's forks rebuilt over the weekend. I took about 1.5 hours of video that I hope to edit down to a 5-10 minute movie. Many thanks to HaulinAshe for the link to the railing company for the SS tubing. Worked liked a charm to drive in the middle and upper sliders along with 2 inch sched 40 PVC for the seals. I kept the shipping container for the tubing and will make a 'kit' with the capped PVC available to people that want to rebuild their own forks.
Dan, the fork seals on my '07 FJR are starting to leak. My brother suggested that I simply remove each fork, pry out the old seal, and use a piece of PVC to install/seat the new seals... he said that I shouldn't have to rebuild the entire fork just to fix a leaking seal. What do you think? Is he right?

 
Dan, the fork seals on my '07 FJR are starting to leak. My brother suggested that I simply remove each fork, pry out the old seal, and use a piece of PVC to install/seat the new seals... he said that I shouldn't have to rebuild the entire fork just to fix a leaking seal. What do you think? Is he right?
What your brother suggests should not be attempted on FJR forks. You can easily damage the inner fork tube surface (and probably will).

The Yami Service Manual illustrates a procedure for "blowing out" the inner fork (oil) seal, by opening the fork, removing the spring, filling the fully-extended fork completely with oil, then capping it and using a shop press to blow the seal free. That procedure does work and I use it whenever I'm confident the bushings are in good shape and do not need replacement.

If all you have is a moderately leaking seal, AND your forks have had the bushings replaced within the last 30,000 miles or so... Then I would simply replace the seals using the Yami procedure. But if you are sitting on original fork oil, original seals, original bushings with years and 10s of thousands of miles on them... buy the extra parts and completely disassemble the forks. It's time well spent. You won't believe the difference it makes.

 
If all you have is a moderately leaking seal, AND your forks have had the bushings replaced within the last 30,000 miles or so... Then I would simply replace the seals using the Yami procedure. But if you are sitting on original fork oil, original seals, original bushings with years and 10s of thousands of miles on them... buy the extra parts and completely disassemble the forks. It's time well spent. You won't believe the difference it makes.
Well, here's my situation. I just bought a used 2007 FJR with 20,000 miles on it. Got it home from the dealership (2+ hour ride) and noticed oil pooling around the dust caps and a few drops of oil on the concrete. I did not see any oil when I took delivery so not sure if he was trying to hide the leak by cleaning it before I picked it up, but both appear to be leaking.

I noticed a lot of grime around the dust seals, so I cleaned them and used the plastic SealMate tool to get in between the seal and the shaft and that appears to have fixed the problem... no more leaking for now. But, I would like to fix it properly.

I think that 4-year old forks with 20,000 miles on them (I'd guess they're mostly highway) is too soon for the bushings to wear out, but what do I know.

Anyway, thank you for the "blow-out" procedure, sounds exactly like what I'm looking for! I have the shop manual, so I'll look through the procedure. Thanks again!

Steve

 
Top