TCMike
Well-known member
I've got an '08 with about 19k on it, and haven't touched the brake, or clutch fluid yet. Debating whether to get it done with with my front tire install in a week, or waiting until fall. What do you think?
clutch and brake fluid flush
- Thread starter TCMike
- Start date
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
I flush everything about every 18 months. The clutch fluid gets really gunky for some reason, so that leads me to complete the job. Remember that brake fluid is hygroscopic. No matter how well sealed a system is, the fluid picks up minute amount of water...and water leads to corrosion or the potential for boiling if hot enough.
The job is pretty easy and straightforward, flush it, especially the clutch.
--G
The job is pretty easy and straightforward, flush it, especially the clutch.
--G
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bramfrank
BramFrank
Made even simpler if you install speedbleeders and buy their hose-and-bag capture kit.
smellthat?
Well-known member
TCMike
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I figured it was overdue, but wanted a general consensus, because of other upcoming bills I will have. I'll be getting it done soon.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic (it attracts water). If left unflushed, the water will collect in brake & clutch systems and cause damage as well as reduce stopping/shifting abilities. It's been frequently recommended that you flush your brake and clutch systems at least every other year. I've seen riders going up Pikes Peak lose their clutch because they had flushed their brakes and forgotten that their clutch was also hydraulic. The water did odd things at elevation and they lots their ability to shift. With both, this can happen at lower elevations through heat.
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MajBach
Well-known member
I'm going to bite with the speedbleeder thing. Are they only available on-line and if so, what size and how many does the FJR require?
bramfrank
BramFrank
You can buy them from Speedbleeder direct (www.speedbleeder.com), though almost every automotive supply house also sells them - I have found that their web site is usually the least expensive option.
You'll need one 7100 (for the rear caliper) and four 8125 bleeders for a Gen-II. I strongly recommend buying their hose and bag.
Some pearls of wisdom, whether wanted or not;
- Protect the pain from splashes of the fluid. It etches. Clean up any spills quickly and wash and(I suggest) wash the affected area - or the whole machine - it'll look better for having done it!! I cover the paint work with a plastic garbage bag to avoid having to clean up the mess.
- Use only DOT4 fluid
- There is no 'full' mark on the level indicator - use the casting line in the reservoir as your 'full' mark.
- Clean the rubber diaphragm and the nylon covers well before reinstalling.
- Operate the lever and brake pedals SLOWLY to avoid a fountain of fluid.
- If you have any 'floaties' in the reservoir, suck them out with a syringe BEFORE bleeding the system.
- I have found that the bleeders are smaller than 8mm - a box end 8mm wrench does work perfectly, however.
- The front bleeder on the right caliper is the one actuated by the rear brake pedal.
Hope this helps.
You'll need one 7100 (for the rear caliper) and four 8125 bleeders for a Gen-II. I strongly recommend buying their hose and bag.
Some pearls of wisdom, whether wanted or not;
- Protect the pain from splashes of the fluid. It etches. Clean up any spills quickly and wash and(I suggest) wash the affected area - or the whole machine - it'll look better for having done it!! I cover the paint work with a plastic garbage bag to avoid having to clean up the mess.
- Use only DOT4 fluid
- There is no 'full' mark on the level indicator - use the casting line in the reservoir as your 'full' mark.
- Clean the rubber diaphragm and the nylon covers well before reinstalling.
- Operate the lever and brake pedals SLOWLY to avoid a fountain of fluid.
- If you have any 'floaties' in the reservoir, suck them out with a syringe BEFORE bleeding the system.
- I have found that the bleeders are smaller than 8mm - a box end 8mm wrench does work perfectly, however.
- The front bleeder on the right caliper is the one actuated by the rear brake pedal.
Hope this helps.
BkrK12
Well-known member
Try the 8125L for the GenII. It gives you a longer nipple to put the hose over, making a more secure junction and less chance of the hose popping off and getting DOT4 all over the place.
Dan
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Send Cougar8000 a PM. He sells them and will make sure you have everything you need for whatever Gen FJR you ride. He'll even send you some hose for the job and his prices can't be beat. I got mine from him (for both my bikes) and I love them.
Should be (1) 7100 and (3)8125's?
1 - left front brake 8125
1 - right front brake 8125
1 - clutch 8125
1 - rear brake 7100
https://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm#Yamaha
johnww
Member
Question from a newbie owner, when you replace the bleeders with speed bleeders doesn't this allow air into the system? How do you otherwise aviod this?
smellthat?
Well-known member
It does - you can't - you just bleed them real quick. Easy with them on. When I put mine on, there was very little in the way of air that got in during the process. Love the speed bleeders.
smellthat?
Well-known member
Nope you need 1 Left Front, TWO right front - remember there is the front brake and rear brake linkage, 1 clutch (all 8125s) then the rear. See the following link about halfway down for a pic of what you need.
CLICKY
BackintheSaddle
Well-known member
Nice write up. I would point out that per the SpeedBleeder web site, all of the bleeders are machined from SAE size hex stock so users should employ SAE wrenches for proper fit. Probably why the 8 mm is a little sloppy.
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