Dreaded SH__46 Error

I've been bitten by the dreaded SH__46 error.

I've searched, googled, youtubed, and Service Manual'd myself to death.

SH__46 error according to the Service Manual, and copied from a post by the great Fred W who was kind enough to make it so I don't have to type it again....

Fault code No.: Sh_ _46*Symptom: Engine speed and gear position sensor signal do not match while vehicle is driven.

Malfunction detecting condition: Gear position calculated by MCU (motor control unit) is different from foot shift switch signal.

Able/unable to start: Unable

Able/unable to change the shift: Unable

Click to expand...

There seem to be limited accounts of this. Only one I've seen with a solution was a fried clutch but he was having the issue while accelerating. Mine is happening only in 5th gear and while cruising steady. I've even managed to capture it on video with my GoPro (as seen below) so I could see if I was doing anything abnormal at the time it happens.



Here's how it goes, cruising in 5th, gear indicator flashes from 5 to 4 and back again a few times, amber light flashes and then goes steady with SH__46 error code and "Shift" under it. Turning off the ignition switch and turning it back on will clear the error and let you continue. Most times I get it once on my ride to work in the morning. One morning I got it three times, and today I got it on the way home. Today was bad because it popped right in the middle of stop and go traffic right before I had to slow down a ton. Not fun trying to flip it off, flip it on, turn on shifter, drop several gears, restart and not smash the car in front of you while keeping from being smashed by the cars around you. Ugh!

I've been spider hunting and all the ones I could get to were fine. I have followed the procedure on page 8-178 of the Yamaha factory service manual to re-calibrate the sensor using the SH__65 mode and done it twice.

I'm thinking gear position sensor, but figured I'd post here to get a record of it for others and see if anyone has any suggestions if they've encountered this before. I need to secure a Safety Torx to get the GPS off so I can test it, thought I had one but didn't.

Anyway, any suggestions on what to do or where to get the part without being raped by the dealership? Any dead/wrecked Gen II's laying around? No? Only Gen I's. Such a shame.

Damn! I hope you find the problem soon. Best of luck to you!

If you saw the gear indicator switch between 5th and 4th without the box actually changing, it sounds very much like the gear indicator sensor or wiring. If the bike "thinks" you're in 4th but are really in 5th, it's certainly going to flag a clutch speed error.

A quick look at the wiring diagram shows it uses a potentiometer as the sensor, it connects to the MCU through three wires, blue, yellow and black/blue. My best guess is the blue supplies a constant voltage (could be 12 or 5), the black/blue is ground, and the yellow is the sensed voltage. The blue and black/blue feed other stuff, the yellow is only between sensor and MCU.

[edit] Just watched your video. Makes me more sure it's the position sensor, its wiring, or possibly calibration, though you say you've checked this. How is the sensor mounted? Could it be loose? Never looked at mine...

Oh, please, don't make a habit of videoing on the move like that, bad things could happen . [/edit]

Thanks mcatrophy,

I gotta get my car back together and then I can tear into this. Good info, I'm going to get me a safety torx...looks like a T25 I think, and pull it off and run through the testing procedure in the manual. If it's bad, I'm looking at about $240 + shipping for a new part as far as I can tell. Sux...

The only thing I can think of is that the gps possibly needs to be adjusted, using the adjustment bolt (still a safety torx) but if it has gone out of adjustment, then something is going bad likely.

I had some similar issues when I had removed the shifter to lube the rear suspension linkage and had removed the shifter. I then had to readjust to get the correct voltage reading to clear the error message. Refer to page 5-72 in the service manual where it explains the setup of the shifter for the correct voltage. According to the manual you should read 2.4 - 2.6 volts DC (2.5 VDC ideal) between the orange and the black wires coming from the foot switch.

Thanks Yamafitter, I'll check it.

Here's another vid...youtube's compression just about killed what you can see of the display. It was half legible before uploading.

So maybe the reason I don't see these parts on ebay is they are few and far between because they are AE specific? How does the non-AE bike know what gear it's in for the gear indicator? I know the foot switch will be AE specific but figured the GPS would be the same on both bikes but I can't find it on a parts fiche.

gixxerjasen said:

So maybe the reason I don't see these parts on ebay is they are few and far between because they are AE specific? How does the non-AE bike know what gear it's in for the gear indicator? I know the foot switch will be AE specific but figured the GPS would be the same on both bikes but I can't find it on a parts fiche.

Click to expand...

AE uses a potentiometer plus a switch for neutral, standard uses switches, one contact for each gear, one for neutral. So, yes, AE specific.

Awesome. Seeing as how many AE's were sold and how infrequently the gps goes out, if I need one I bet there isn't one on the continent...have to wait on the slow boat from Japan.

Went to Sears...it appears if I want anything safety torx related I need to buy an 83 piece bit set. I'll keep looking.

The whole set. $10.00 on sale at Harbor freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=torx

Sweet! I don't know why I never think of them. Look, smaller set for $6 too. Thanks, I know where I'm stopping on my way home today.

For the security Torx bits, try any of the usual auto parts places, like Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone, or O'Reilly's. I picked up a set of bits very cheaply at O'Reilly's. Put the bit into hex head socket, and you're good to go with a 1/4" rachet or driver.

Hope this helps,

'fooz

Thanks, I actually have an O'Reilly's walking distance from my house. I'll give them a try tomorrow before heading into town for Harbor Freight. Drove past HF tonight but I had a car full of hungry folks as we tried to find a place for dinner. Grrrr.

Here is a photo of how I took the voltage reading from the foot shift potentiometer.



Note the wire colours. I just stripped back some insulation from the wires I needed and then taped them up when I was done.

Ok, so I need some help here from the electronics folks.

I got the GPS off of the bike and started taking readings. Fashioned me up some connectors and wires so I can get to them easier. Bad idea?

Anyway, the service manual on page 8-235 says to connect your leads to the two outer terminals. I get OL while connected to those two terminals. However, if I connect to either of the outer terminals and the center one, then I get readings. This seems to follow what I'm reading about measuring potentiometers. Seems the center is the wiper...and unless Yamaha decided to wire it differently between the potentiometer and the connector, it looks about standard.

The book says to connect the "Pocket Tester (Ω X 1K)" and measure maximum resistance. It should be between 4.0 - 6.0 kΩ

And suddenly I'm into stuff I don't know.

I measured both sides of the sensor with my multimeter set to 2K on the section marked Ω, and by turning the slotted part in the center, I get the ranges as follows.

OL - .373

.315 - OL

Can somebody tell me what this means? I'm reinstalling it now using the markers I made so I get it back where it was. Any ideas?

You have the range on the meter set too low which is why you are reading what would normally indicate an open circuit. The range you have selected is from 0 to 2000 ohms (2 KΩ) but what the sensor will read is higher than that ( 4000 - 6000 ohms or 4 KΩ to 6 KΩ) which is why you are reading OL or in this case over range. Try again and select a higher range on your meter (hopefully it has one).

When you measure across the outer terminals you are measuring the resistance of the resistor winding that the wiper (center terminal) sweeps across. The closer the wiper is to one end of the winding the lower the resistance on that terminal and the wiper (center) terminal.

I hope this makes some sense to you.

Ok, thanks. Will do that tomorrow. I was trying to figure out how I'm supposed to do 1K like the manual said with my multimeter.

I'm running an el cheapo Sperry DM-350A. I've got the following ranges to use. 200, 2K, 20K, 200K, 2M, 20M.

Ok, now I feel silly. I finished my AA in Engineering and then never had the $$ to keep going. However, I did know that I'd certainly continue on the ME side and skip EE because ME just makes sense, while EE is black magic.

With the right tools, this thing is insanely easy to get off of the bike. So I decided to do it tonight.

Flipped the multimeter up to 20K and I'm getting 4.59, which should be within range. So...it's likely not the $240 part, so time to keep troubleshooting.

I'll mount it up tomorrow and fiddle with the position to make sure it's in the right spot according to the readings and make sure that is spot on.