Well, the Gen III OEM Sliders Work...

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CA G-Man

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I took an Experienced Rider Course this weekend and - no surprise - had my first drop. We were doing a drill where we came to a quick stop and then quickly "escaped" by making a full-lock, minimum-radius turn (I still haven't figured out what real-world scenario this drill was supposed to simulate...). Anyhoo, on one of the passes I managed to stall it at full-lock and down she went at zero speed.

I was surprised at how little damage there was. If you get down on your knees you can see the nick on the slider where it landed, and there is a very slight scuff (maybe a 1/2-inch long) at the front of the muffler. No contact of mirrors, bars, or side bags whatsoever.

Sure glad I installed the sliders this winter!

 
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Sure glad I installed the sliders this winter!
I'm glad to hear this. I installed the OEM sliders as well. They LOOK substantial on the outside, but on the inside, theirs just not much to them. I like to think they've been engineered with 'crush zones'. Maybe, but maybe wishful thinking too. The mounting hardware is pretty stout though.

Hope I never need to test them. But knowing me, I probably will. Managed to only drop my Gen 1 twice in 5 years.

 
Hmmm, I agree with the comment about not knowing the real application of thus maneuver. Trying to do this with an FJR is asking for trouble. I am taking the advanced rider course this Saturday and hope this still is not included since I'd have to make a tough decision of doing it or not. I know I can ride at an ultra low speed - actually won a contest against a vrod, ducati and a dual purpose bike riding the slowest in a straight 50 ft line - but that quick turn around is crazy.

 
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The advanced driving course I have taken makes us do that turn (brake and escape) to simulate you avoiding a turning car into your path and the emergency braking isn't enough to stop in time so you have to swerve around the car to avoid smacking into it. It keeps the skills sharp. However, I use the CTB method of making that tight turn (Clutch, Throttle, Brake) to keep the bike up... otherwise, it is very easy to go down. During the initial braking phase, I downshift rapidly to get back into 1st gear in order to be ready for the CTB part.

 
The advanced driving course I have taken makes us do that turn (brake and escape) to simulate you avoiding a turning car into your path and the emergency braking isn't enough to stop in time so you have to swerve around the car to avoid smacking into it. It keeps the skills sharp. However, I use the CTB method of making that tight turn (Clutch, Throttle, Brake) to keep the bike up... otherwise, it is very easy to go down. During the initial braking phase, I downshift rapidly to get back into 1st gear in order to be ready for the CTB part.
But the OP said he had to do a full-lock minimum radius turn, not just swerve around the obstacle!

 
bigjohnsd:

I thought about taking the bags off (and I did for the 2nd day) but I deliberately left them on for day 1 so that I would have the challenge of the slow-speed stuff with a sort of realistic load (not quite 2-up, loaded for touring, but sort of realistic). Glad there was no damage to them.
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... where we came to a quick stop and then quickly "escaped" by making a full-lock, minimum-radius turn (I still haven't figured out what real-world scenario this drill was supposed to simulate...). ...
How about coming to a rapid stop behind a line of cars, and the one behind you isn't going to stop in time? Just a thought.
PS. Big advantage of the YCC-S, it won't stall, even if you're in 5th. (Best to be in a low gear, however, as it doesn't accelerate very quickly in 5th.)

 
was this an MSF Experienced Rider Class?
I'm not entirely sure. I'm pretty sure I saw some MSF materials somewhere, but they certainly didn't push "MSF" in the marketing. It was offered by "Alberta Motorcycle Training" which seems to be the only organization doing any training in my city. I suppose they could have "borrowed" some MSF materials and techniques...
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Edit: The certificate that I got at the end didn't include any reference to MSF. I might be wrong but I have the impression that MSF isn't such a big thing here in Canada, with more of the training left to Canadian Automobile Association (CAA) provincial affiliates and other private schools.

 
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I am teaching my first MSF ERC of the year tonight so I was reviewing my MSF range cards today to clear the cob webs. I don't see where we have any exercises that require a stop and a quick full lock turn. The closest thing we have is our Stopping Quickly Exercise where you stop quickly, get coached and take a 90 degree perimeter turn to the right or left. Your Rider Coaches must be using another curriculum package.




By the way, I'm glad the OEM sliders work as I have them on my bike. Now I don't have to test mine.
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Like Bungie said they don't appear to be overly substantial at first glance.

 
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By the way, I'm glad the OEM sliders work as I have them on my bike. Now I don't have to test mine.
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Like Bungie said they don't appear to be overly substantial at first glance.
Perhaps I should have said "the OEM sliders work at zero speed. Testing at speed remains to be performed."
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Where these indeed the Yamaha OEM sliders at $325? Did not see that mentioned by the original poster. I have the T-Rex sliders installed, but have been agonizing over getting the canyon cages since I had a "near drop" experience in K-Mart parking lot. I was resigned to the fact that she was going down at full stop, but mustered just enough extra oomph to get upright again. I know that any of these methods are mostly for drops at very low or no speeds. I think the canyon cages would pay for themselves after one drop, but wonder if the T-Rex's would have the same result.

 
I took the Civilian Motorcycle Police course I took two years ago we did a maneuver that did:

1. Steady 45 mph

2. Emergency stop, NO feet down

3. 90 degree tight right

4. 90 degree tight left

5. A variety of 180 and 90 degree turns

The idea was to simulate traffic (1) that suddenly stops (2) and then you have to get around the car in front (3, 4) to getting squished, then get through the traffic pile-up (5).

I'd rent a harley for the class :)
There were some Harley's there and they didn't fare well. Not saying that they couldn't do the slow speed stuff, but I think the long wheelbase and cruiser geometry made it harder to perform the exercises. The GS650 and Super Tenere seemed to do the best; the instructor did everything on his Vision.

 
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By the way, I'm glad the OEM sliders work as I have them on my bike. Now I don't have to test mine.
smile.png
Like Bungie said they don't appear to be overly substantial at first glance.
Perhaps I should have said "the OEM sliders work at zero speed. Testing at speed remains to be performed."
no.gif
That's all I ask of any slider, simply because you can't expect ANYTHING protecting your bike with speeds greater than walking speed. Something will get rashed (fairing, bags, mirrors etc). If you think a set of sliders, or even cages for the matter, will leave you a pristine motorcyclette after an at speed get off, your delusional.

 
Where these indeed the Yamaha OEM sliders at $325? Did not see that mentioned by the original poster. I have the T-Rex sliders installed, but have been agonizing over getting the canyon cages since I had a "near drop" experience in K-Mart parking lot. I was resigned to the fact that she was going down at full stop, but mustered just enough extra oomph to get upright again. I know that any of these methods are mostly for drops at very low or no speeds. I think the canyon cages would pay for themselves after one drop, but wonder if the T-Rex's would have the same result.
Yes, I have the Yamaha OEM sliders (however I paid a little less than $325).

 
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