mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
I'm a lazy type, I don't like to do stuff myself if it's not necessary. I also like the cruise control fitted to my 2014, and I use it almost every time I ride, even in town (to hold down to that 30 limit).
Yamaha in their wisdom assume you don't want to use the cruise control when you first turn on the bike. It's just like they didn't want the AS (AE) riders to use their finger-flicker gear-change switch, unless manually selected. I'd added a gismo to do that on my 2010. Now on my 2014 AS, they have the finger switch permanently enabled. So why not the cruise control? It could be because a rider might not expect it to operate, but then they go and supply a tank bag that inevitably and randomly presses the button when tightly manoeuvring, so after exiting a car-park or whatever, you might or might not have it selected.
My first thoughts were to enable the CC automatically on ignition turn-on by using the circuitry I'd previously used to deal with the finger-flicker switch enable, which could wait a short time after ignition on, then make and break a contact.
Then I had a brainwave (there must be a blue moon). I tried turning on the ignition with the enable button held pressed. Lo and behold, after the usual dashboard pyrotechnics, the cruise control indicator light remained on. Yey, hey! Maybe I can simply short the wires within the switch body.
Again, I'd have to get to the switch's wires if I was to put a permanent short on them, but without undoing some of the handlebar loom to the switch, I couldn't get it sufficiently off the handlebar to get to its wires internally, and judging by the only wiring diagram I've got (a 2013 'A'), the wires separate and go their separate ways, one to the fuse area, one to the ECU.
Ok, if I can't do it electrically, could I do it mechanically? Hell, yes.
A little investigation showed that the rearmost screw holding the switch-block together had plenty of thread, the pic below shows it with a couple of turns into the thread start.
(Click on image for larger view)
Note also the head is recessed into the bottom of the switch housing.
I got a little bit of duraluminium sheet, measured, drilled and bent, ending up with this L-shaped bracket:
I've shown it with its screw, a washer, and a larger nut as a spacer to fill that recess, so the bracket can be flat to the bottom of the switch housing.
I stuck some duct tape to the face that pushes on the button to stop it damaging the plastic, trimmed to just cover that inner surface.
Trial fit:
A quick spray of black, then final fitting:
Proof of the pudding:
Possible issues:
Now my CC is always enabled. I expect Yamaha will eventually at least make the CC state be remembered over an ignition recycle (as they do for my AS's "Automatically change down to first when coming to rest" feature), but IMHO my solution is better, it can't accidentally be dis-enabled.
Yamaha in their wisdom assume you don't want to use the cruise control when you first turn on the bike. It's just like they didn't want the AS (AE) riders to use their finger-flicker gear-change switch, unless manually selected. I'd added a gismo to do that on my 2010. Now on my 2014 AS, they have the finger switch permanently enabled. So why not the cruise control? It could be because a rider might not expect it to operate, but then they go and supply a tank bag that inevitably and randomly presses the button when tightly manoeuvring, so after exiting a car-park or whatever, you might or might not have it selected.
My first thoughts were to enable the CC automatically on ignition turn-on by using the circuitry I'd previously used to deal with the finger-flicker switch enable, which could wait a short time after ignition on, then make and break a contact.
Then I had a brainwave (there must be a blue moon). I tried turning on the ignition with the enable button held pressed. Lo and behold, after the usual dashboard pyrotechnics, the cruise control indicator light remained on. Yey, hey! Maybe I can simply short the wires within the switch body.
Again, I'd have to get to the switch's wires if I was to put a permanent short on them, but without undoing some of the handlebar loom to the switch, I couldn't get it sufficiently off the handlebar to get to its wires internally, and judging by the only wiring diagram I've got (a 2013 'A'), the wires separate and go their separate ways, one to the fuse area, one to the ECU.
Ok, if I can't do it electrically, could I do it mechanically? Hell, yes.
A little investigation showed that the rearmost screw holding the switch-block together had plenty of thread, the pic below shows it with a couple of turns into the thread start.
(Click on image for larger view)
Note also the head is recessed into the bottom of the switch housing.
I got a little bit of duraluminium sheet, measured, drilled and bent, ending up with this L-shaped bracket:
I've shown it with its screw, a washer, and a larger nut as a spacer to fill that recess, so the bracket can be flat to the bottom of the switch housing.
I stuck some duct tape to the face that pushes on the button to stop it damaging the plastic, trimmed to just cover that inner surface.
Trial fit:
A quick spray of black, then final fitting:
Proof of the pudding:
Possible issues:
- Other than its tightness, there's nothing to stop the bracket turning on the holding screw - which could release the button. It doesn't feel like it will, also if it did, it would be in a direction that would tend to tighten the screw. Only time (and riding) will tell. Hey, that's a feature, if I did want to operate the button, I could push it round to release the button
.
- It's possible it might fret the tank-bag (or its rain-cover) when on full lock, yet to be determined.
Now my CC is always enabled. I expect Yamaha will eventually at least make the CC state be remembered over an ignition recycle (as they do for my AS's "Automatically change down to first when coming to rest" feature), but IMHO my solution is better, it can't accidentally be dis-enabled.
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