What Is This Relay?

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Can't tell from the diagram. Are you referring to the one above and to the right of centre in this picture, with something like 12 or 13 wires going to it?

(Click on image for larger view)



If so, that contains 2 relays and a number of diodes, and does all the safety interlock stuff (neutral, side-stand, fuel pump ...), top of this part-circuit, labelled 89 (this is from the diagram for the AE, the interlocks are a little different as are the label numbers from the A's diagram, but it is essentially the same).



 
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Yep, that's the one. I ask because the boot had come off and it looks like a little corrosion took place. Just wondering if I should clean the pins or replace the relay depending on what it controls

 
Yep, that's the one. I ask because the boot had come off and it looks like a little corrosion took place. Just wondering if I should clean the pins or replace the relay depending on what it controls
It's an important component, it it fails it will almost certainly stop the engine.

Having said that, I believe it's a sealed unit (I could be wrong) in which case just a good cleanup of its contacts and application of a suitable anti-corrosion substance - many views on what that should be, I'd be happy to use any of petroleum jelly (Vaseline), copper impregnated grease (usually used for brake applications), lithium based grease (usually used for bearings etc) ...

Even with a new one, you probably have corrosion within its connector to deal with, and you should certainly protect its connections.

While you're in there, check all those earth "spiders".

 
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I made a brodey harness to fix some of the weird things that were going on. Discovered s7 was burnt, so good thing I tore the bike down.

What my problem was occasionally my 4ways would come on but not blink. And when that happens the bike still runs fine and my horn works but no windshield, no blinkers, no high beam, and no AE finger shift. When I pressed the windshield up button the rear lights would flash with each button press. Turn the bike off and back on it would go away. I hate electricity some times.

 
The boot on that device is more of a loose shield than a waterproof boot. When I had mine apart, I also thought it was a little bit exposed but I have never heard of a major problem at that location. I think I would clean it up with a toothbrush or something and call it good.

As pnkrkr4lif says, check out the spiders (and other electrical connectors) while you are there. Also check/clean windshield mechanism and the rubber (actually PVC) "gasket" on the front cowl. I had to remove mine completely, clean up the gasket and cowl with alcohol and re-attach using 3M double-sided foam trim tape.

 
I've been comfortable with electricity ever since, age three, I put my fingers into the connections of a table lamp without its bulb, so getting the full 240 volts in my hand. That threw me across the room. Since then, all my working life, I've earned my living as an electronics design engineer.

Having said that, the reasons for many of the effects of bad earth connections on the FJR remain something of a mystery. Some can be worked out, most I can't. I suspect some are caused by a confused ECU.

On my 2014, the earth runs are much improved, but there are many "spiders" used in other parts of the wiring. I'm awaiting hearing of failures in these.

 
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Pnkrkr4lif - I had the S7 fail on my 07 (non AE) and also corrosion on my fuel pump relay.

I cleaned up the corroded contacts on the relay/connector and slathered some dielectric grease on before reassembling. Been working fine for many years now despite daily riding here in the Seattle area with the regular wet weather we have.

You didn't say how you fixed S7, but I just cut the offending spider connector off and soldered all the wires together. Also been working fine for many years now. You can check the tracking thread here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/139511-fjrf0093-spider-failures-other-than-s4-research/?p=881121

There was a recall that addressed the S4 spider and if your bike hasn't had that done you can still get any Yamaha dealer to do it for free because it's a safety recall. But if you read through the thread I linked, you'll see that problems can still happen with other spiders so your best bet is to check, clean and dielectric grease all the other spiders. (and other connectors because electrical gremlins aren't limited to spiders on this bike).

 
I made a brodey style harness to connect the spiders to the battery. I removed the s4 harness and plugged in my new one. On the spiders I used carbon grease to increase current flow and have used dielectric on the other plugs and connectors. I also am going to take apart my left bar switch and clean and grease that to clean that up some.

 
... I used carbon grease to increase current flow and have used dielectric on the other plugs and connectors. ...
Carbon grease won't make any practical difference to the conductivity - the resistivity of the grease is several orders of magnitude higher than metal. If the metal to metal contact fails, all the carbon grease will do is possibly warm up a bit. It won't usefully conduct anything.
Using dielectric grease is equally of little use, any grease has enough resistivity to prevent any significant current flowing between different circuits. And, if you think you need so-called conductive grease in the spider application, you need it in other connectors, so it makes no sense to use non-conductive grease.

In an automotive-electrics applicaton, all greases are non-conductive, all connectors rely on a metal-to-metal contact. All the grease is doing is protecting that contact.

You can use any grease that prevents air/water getting to the metal in either case. If you want to spend the extra on these specialist greases, that's up to you, but there's no real benefit.

 
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