BkerChuck
Second hand vegetarian
When the discussion of a location for EOM 2018 started I was surprised to see Williamsport, PA suggested as a possible host city. I’ve attended the past 3 years starting with Lewisburg, WV in 2015 and Whytheville, VA the past 2 years. Both of these venues had awesome riding roads and being a lifelong PA resident I’d never seen roads that technical or twisty in my home state. I’ve been through Williamsport several times but had never spent any time there. Perhaps there was something hidden there I didn’t know about? A posting in the location thread included a link to another site where another rider had already created loops using Williamsport as a hub so I downloaded the provided GPX files to Basecamp and started looking them over. Knowing the number of decent weekends left here in central PA I volunteered myself to go to Williamsport and check out the scene
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I delayed a few days to watch the weather forecast but on Wednesday called and booked a King Room with my AAA discount rate of $89.10 per night plus taxes. I planned to ride north Friday after work putting me at the hotel around the time it gets dark. I had two possible routes to get there. One would take me through Harrisburg, our state capitol, the other would skirt the city and have me ride a road with lower speed limits along the Susquehanna River but would be far more scenic. I opted for the scenic route. Traffic was about average for a Friday at 4:30 and even on the scenic route I lost some time dealing with work traffic trying to get home. By the time I hit Selinsgrove, PA the temps had dropped by almost 10 degrees from the high of 74 and I stopped to change to warmer gloves. I had to make one more stop just before Williamsport to take a picture of my odometer. I’ve now crossed 80k miles since I bought my FJR in August 2012.
View of Harrisburg from RT. 15
Rolling into Williamsport slightly after dark it’s not hard to spot the hotel. Old school neon and well-lit it’s one of the tallest buildings in town. I have to circle the block to get to the parking area which is fenced in and gated. Just outside of the gate are a few parking spots reserved just for guests checking in. The lobby is quite large and very nice but at this moment full of people and animals. The hotel is hosting an event for the ASPCA with raffles and an auction and animals available for adoption. My camera is still on the bike so I missed the opportunity for pictures. Check in goes smoothly and I’m informed about the breakfast buffet and the Wi-Fi password. I get my keys and go out to move the bike to a regular spot inside of the gates and unload my bags.
There is an elevator midway between the parking area doors and the lobby and two additional elevators in the lobby area near the bar/restaurant. The Genetti is 9 stories high and one of the tallest buildings in town. I believe I saw mention of 208 rooms with a variety of layouts. Entering my home away from home for the next 2 nights I’m impressed with both the amount of space and the cleanliness that greet me when I open the door. Jacket and helmet go in the closet while I spread out the rest of my stuff before heading out for a bite to eat. Being the first Friday of the month Williamsport like some other towns has a tradition of local in town shops staying open later and restaurants offering special. Diagonal from the Genetti I check out the Raven and Moon Public House thinking I might eat there.
There is a waiting list for seats and 40 minutes is more than my tolerance level for tonight. The menu looks good and the food I smell being carried by smells wonderful so maybe tomorrow. Within a short 2 or 3 block walk I count not less than 10 bars and restaurants ranging from Thai cuisine to brick oven pizza. The Bullfrog Brewery to the Cellblock, a bar/club occupying the former jail. There is a Wegman’s Grocery store selling beer only 2-1/2 blocks from the hotel. Food and drink choices are plentiful and with a variety of price points. One thing I don’t see are franchise restaurants. If you want the standard names it’s a short 2 mile ride to their “golden mile” which offers the normal tired franchise stuff.
I make a short side trip by the bus terminal to see a wooden Indian. Williamsport is the home of Chief Woapalanne one of the Whispering Giants carved by Peter Toth. These were a bonus on the Butt Lite rally a couple years ago and I’ve wanted to see this for some time. I’ve previously seen two of them and each are unique. The Chief was recently moved and had some restoration work done. He’s now on display outside of the Williamsport bus terminal only about a block and change from the Genetti. Now hungry I decide to test out the Genetti Taphouse the bar/restaurant of the hotel itself. I’m not a huge beer enthusiast but I know many attendees might be so I inquire as to their menu choices. They rotate their selections on a regular basis and in addition to a couple of standard names they have about 10-12 more microbrews and local brews on tap. I opt for a hard cider which is very good.
The bar appears to seat roughly 25 and there are tables for probably 50 more, I didn’t count. There are various pieces of art on the walls for sale and the menu ranges from burgers and chicken dishes to some seafood options. For smokers or for warm weather there is outside seating available. Wait staff was very friendly offering recommendations when asked and my meal was prompt and very good. After dinner I take a short walk to the grocery store for some mixers to accompany my flask of Captain Morgan I’ve packed. Opting to call it an early night I watch a little TV and review the route I wish to ride tomorrow.
Saturday morning the breakfast buffet is the first order of business. It’s included in the room price but available to people off the street for $9.95. The buffet is similar to what I’ve seen at past EOM venues but in my opinion a little nicer. One of the things that catches my eye is an automated pancake machine. Put a plate at the end and push a button. Watch as batter is dispensed and then 2 pancakes are made while you wait. Pretty cool in a geeky sort of way. They had a nice array of normal breakfast foods and cereals, hot and cold beverages and juices. Belly full it’s time to ride.
It’s a little cooler than I expected and wiping some frost from my seat I start the bike and see 36 degrees on my display. Plugging in the heated jacket liner I’m off for fuel. Tank filled I now tell Mr. Garmin I want to try the Western Twist route. This loop should be about 260 miles heading further north and reportedly offering some nice roads. Leaving Williamsport I’m directed onto Rte. 973 and the beginning of the fun. This route takes you into some fairly isolated areas and at this time of year I already know to watch for forest rats. I catch a glimpse of movement to my left as I pass a cornfield and slow before I even see him. A very decent sized 4 point whitetail buck bounds across the road about 10 yards ahead of me. This entire route skirts and runs through state forests and game lands and I ride for more than an hour seeing only 1 car. I have been through this area before and see a few familiar landmarks. Roads are well maintained but not tight or technical like VA, WV, or TN as we’ve had the past couple years. With the light traffic I’m easily able to hold speed limit plus 10 or more for extended periods of time. Temps are warming up gradually and I stop at Fin, Fur, and Feather to visit their used coffee department. If I hadn’t just recently eaten breakfast this is a nice old school diner and has a good crowd there eating. Back on the bike I continue north and west through more small towns that likely aren’t on most maps they’re so small. I roll through Galeton a town I’m familiar with as I’ve camped nearby over the 4th of July for many years.
Heading west on Route 6 towards Coudersport I’ve often thought this would be an interesting route to cross the country on. Small towns, mostly 2 lane with long sweepers you can just roll through at a nice pace. At one point an oncoming car flashes his headlights and I roll off the gas a bit. Hiding behind a pile of quarry waste on the right side sits a PA state trooper and I’m thankful for the warning. The loop I’m on turns me around just short of Coudersport and takes me south and east through Cherry Springs State Park. On either side of the road I see small telescope platform enclosures. I know from prior visits in this area that Cherry Springs is considered one of the top 10 areas in the country for stargazing. The route crosses and backtracks onto some roads already traveled before turning in a new direction and putting me in the small town of Renovo. It’s been a few hours and I’m starting to get hungry so I pull into the Yesteryear Hotel and bar for something hot to eat and drink. In an odd sense of déjà vu I realize I’ve eaten here before probably over 40 years ago when my dad belonged to a hunting camp near here. Of course the name was different and it had been remodeled but talking to the owner I find it’s been a restaurant in this location for more than 70 years.
Belly full and sufficiently warm once more I continue on my travels. The roads are fun but not remarkable. Mostly sweepers and some stretches of pretty scenery but no real twisty sections. I roll through Beech Creek and Mill Hall then stop to refuel. From here it’s about 50 miles back to Williamsport and I finally hit the twistiest part of the entire route less than 5 miles from where I started. Had I know this I could have just ridden this short section several times and had almost as much fun! Back at the hotel for a shower and change of clothes before deciding where to eat tonight.
Walking across the street I try the Raven and Moon again only to find another 40 minute wait. I don’t think so and stroll down the street to a small rather nondescript Mexican place. Food and service were excellent and a great value to boot. I walk around town for a little until around 8:00 when the expected rain begins to fall. This had been in the forecast and I hope it all passes through while I sleep. With daylight savings time ending at 02:00 I’m supposed to gain an hour of sleep but my body has different ideas. I get up at my regular time, which is now an hour earlier, and shower before hitting the breakfast buffet. I pack and enter my planned route home.
In the interest of giving the area a fair evaluation but having limited time I’ve picked the posted SE Coal region route and plan to ride this as far as Centralia before heading home. Centralia is now a ghost town due to the underground coal fires that have burned for more than 50 years. I’ve always wanted to see this and am happy to make this part of my route. I’m not happy that it’s raining and there are a lot of wet leaves on many of these roads. This route is also unfortunately for me twistier than yesterday’s ride. These roads still aren’t what we’ve seen in recent EOM meets but they’re better than the route I rode Saturday. There is a fair amount of very pretty scenery today in spite of the weather and Centralia is somewhere I will revisit on a nicer day. It’s kind of eerie because while the GPS shows roads and the roads still exist they’re no longer maintained and there are no houses here anymore. I leave with the feeling I had been on a movie set but I know the story and that this was once a thriving town. Weird.
Weather has not improved so I tell the Garmin to just get me home. Slightly more than an hour later I pull into my garage and strip off my gear. I guess the question is, “would this make a good venue for EOM?” In the interest of fairness to all and trying to remain impartial to the fact it would only be a hundred miles for myself here are the facts;
Hotel – one of the nicest places I’ve ever stayed. Even if EOM is not held here I will return and ride more in this part of my home state. There are guest laundry facilities on most floors allowing you to do your wash in the evenings saving some trouble if traveling more than a couple of days. Parking lot social should be acceptable and the area around the pool should be available to us as well.
Roads – I only got to sample one of the routes and a portion of another. Saturday’s ride was nice, good scenery, places to stop with good views but not really twisty enough. For fans of the Dragon or Snake you will be disappointed. Sunday’s ride was better but rain and wet leaves on the road limited my ability to really enjoy myself. I inverted the route from what was posted to make more sense for my drive home also. This route I will go back and do again. The other routes all look nice but PA does not offer the extended periods of really twisty roads the southern states have. More sweepers and touring sort of stuff than sportbike nirvana.
Restaurants – more and better choices than the EOM events I’ve attended so far. This is no offense to organizers just an observation that this venue being in town is very pedestrian friendly. Plenty of bars as well for those so inclined. Franchise names are only a short ride away, about 2 miles from the hotel.
Other things to do – Williamsport is home to the Little League World Series and boasts a museum to that effect. It was a onetime lumber capitol and there are some beautiful homes on “Millionaires Row”. The PA Grand Canyon is on one of the routes as is Hyner View State Park which features awesome views and one of the few sites in PA where folks can hang glide. Bloomsburg is not far and the home of Bill’s Old Bike Barn, a small motorcycle museum that last I visited was only $5 admission. Centralia is on the SE Coal Region loop and is a ghost town where families were forced to leave after the underground coal first made the area uninhabitable.
I would be okay with Williamsport being the host city. As sated above I’ll be going back myself even if it’s not the majority choice. There are plenty of things to see and do using this area as a hub and the routes from the New England Rider’s website look decent. I’m sure with a little bit of scouting we can find more.
.
I delayed a few days to watch the weather forecast but on Wednesday called and booked a King Room with my AAA discount rate of $89.10 per night plus taxes. I planned to ride north Friday after work putting me at the hotel around the time it gets dark. I had two possible routes to get there. One would take me through Harrisburg, our state capitol, the other would skirt the city and have me ride a road with lower speed limits along the Susquehanna River but would be far more scenic. I opted for the scenic route. Traffic was about average for a Friday at 4:30 and even on the scenic route I lost some time dealing with work traffic trying to get home. By the time I hit Selinsgrove, PA the temps had dropped by almost 10 degrees from the high of 74 and I stopped to change to warmer gloves. I had to make one more stop just before Williamsport to take a picture of my odometer. I’ve now crossed 80k miles since I bought my FJR in August 2012.
View of Harrisburg from RT. 15
Rolling into Williamsport slightly after dark it’s not hard to spot the hotel. Old school neon and well-lit it’s one of the tallest buildings in town. I have to circle the block to get to the parking area which is fenced in and gated. Just outside of the gate are a few parking spots reserved just for guests checking in. The lobby is quite large and very nice but at this moment full of people and animals. The hotel is hosting an event for the ASPCA with raffles and an auction and animals available for adoption. My camera is still on the bike so I missed the opportunity for pictures. Check in goes smoothly and I’m informed about the breakfast buffet and the Wi-Fi password. I get my keys and go out to move the bike to a regular spot inside of the gates and unload my bags.
There is an elevator midway between the parking area doors and the lobby and two additional elevators in the lobby area near the bar/restaurant. The Genetti is 9 stories high and one of the tallest buildings in town. I believe I saw mention of 208 rooms with a variety of layouts. Entering my home away from home for the next 2 nights I’m impressed with both the amount of space and the cleanliness that greet me when I open the door. Jacket and helmet go in the closet while I spread out the rest of my stuff before heading out for a bite to eat. Being the first Friday of the month Williamsport like some other towns has a tradition of local in town shops staying open later and restaurants offering special. Diagonal from the Genetti I check out the Raven and Moon Public House thinking I might eat there.
There is a waiting list for seats and 40 minutes is more than my tolerance level for tonight. The menu looks good and the food I smell being carried by smells wonderful so maybe tomorrow. Within a short 2 or 3 block walk I count not less than 10 bars and restaurants ranging from Thai cuisine to brick oven pizza. The Bullfrog Brewery to the Cellblock, a bar/club occupying the former jail. There is a Wegman’s Grocery store selling beer only 2-1/2 blocks from the hotel. Food and drink choices are plentiful and with a variety of price points. One thing I don’t see are franchise restaurants. If you want the standard names it’s a short 2 mile ride to their “golden mile” which offers the normal tired franchise stuff.
I make a short side trip by the bus terminal to see a wooden Indian. Williamsport is the home of Chief Woapalanne one of the Whispering Giants carved by Peter Toth. These were a bonus on the Butt Lite rally a couple years ago and I’ve wanted to see this for some time. I’ve previously seen two of them and each are unique. The Chief was recently moved and had some restoration work done. He’s now on display outside of the Williamsport bus terminal only about a block and change from the Genetti. Now hungry I decide to test out the Genetti Taphouse the bar/restaurant of the hotel itself. I’m not a huge beer enthusiast but I know many attendees might be so I inquire as to their menu choices. They rotate their selections on a regular basis and in addition to a couple of standard names they have about 10-12 more microbrews and local brews on tap. I opt for a hard cider which is very good.
The bar appears to seat roughly 25 and there are tables for probably 50 more, I didn’t count. There are various pieces of art on the walls for sale and the menu ranges from burgers and chicken dishes to some seafood options. For smokers or for warm weather there is outside seating available. Wait staff was very friendly offering recommendations when asked and my meal was prompt and very good. After dinner I take a short walk to the grocery store for some mixers to accompany my flask of Captain Morgan I’ve packed. Opting to call it an early night I watch a little TV and review the route I wish to ride tomorrow.
Saturday morning the breakfast buffet is the first order of business. It’s included in the room price but available to people off the street for $9.95. The buffet is similar to what I’ve seen at past EOM venues but in my opinion a little nicer. One of the things that catches my eye is an automated pancake machine. Put a plate at the end and push a button. Watch as batter is dispensed and then 2 pancakes are made while you wait. Pretty cool in a geeky sort of way. They had a nice array of normal breakfast foods and cereals, hot and cold beverages and juices. Belly full it’s time to ride.
It’s a little cooler than I expected and wiping some frost from my seat I start the bike and see 36 degrees on my display. Plugging in the heated jacket liner I’m off for fuel. Tank filled I now tell Mr. Garmin I want to try the Western Twist route. This loop should be about 260 miles heading further north and reportedly offering some nice roads. Leaving Williamsport I’m directed onto Rte. 973 and the beginning of the fun. This route takes you into some fairly isolated areas and at this time of year I already know to watch for forest rats. I catch a glimpse of movement to my left as I pass a cornfield and slow before I even see him. A very decent sized 4 point whitetail buck bounds across the road about 10 yards ahead of me. This entire route skirts and runs through state forests and game lands and I ride for more than an hour seeing only 1 car. I have been through this area before and see a few familiar landmarks. Roads are well maintained but not tight or technical like VA, WV, or TN as we’ve had the past couple years. With the light traffic I’m easily able to hold speed limit plus 10 or more for extended periods of time. Temps are warming up gradually and I stop at Fin, Fur, and Feather to visit their used coffee department. If I hadn’t just recently eaten breakfast this is a nice old school diner and has a good crowd there eating. Back on the bike I continue north and west through more small towns that likely aren’t on most maps they’re so small. I roll through Galeton a town I’m familiar with as I’ve camped nearby over the 4th of July for many years.
Heading west on Route 6 towards Coudersport I’ve often thought this would be an interesting route to cross the country on. Small towns, mostly 2 lane with long sweepers you can just roll through at a nice pace. At one point an oncoming car flashes his headlights and I roll off the gas a bit. Hiding behind a pile of quarry waste on the right side sits a PA state trooper and I’m thankful for the warning. The loop I’m on turns me around just short of Coudersport and takes me south and east through Cherry Springs State Park. On either side of the road I see small telescope platform enclosures. I know from prior visits in this area that Cherry Springs is considered one of the top 10 areas in the country for stargazing. The route crosses and backtracks onto some roads already traveled before turning in a new direction and putting me in the small town of Renovo. It’s been a few hours and I’m starting to get hungry so I pull into the Yesteryear Hotel and bar for something hot to eat and drink. In an odd sense of déjà vu I realize I’ve eaten here before probably over 40 years ago when my dad belonged to a hunting camp near here. Of course the name was different and it had been remodeled but talking to the owner I find it’s been a restaurant in this location for more than 70 years.
Belly full and sufficiently warm once more I continue on my travels. The roads are fun but not remarkable. Mostly sweepers and some stretches of pretty scenery but no real twisty sections. I roll through Beech Creek and Mill Hall then stop to refuel. From here it’s about 50 miles back to Williamsport and I finally hit the twistiest part of the entire route less than 5 miles from where I started. Had I know this I could have just ridden this short section several times and had almost as much fun! Back at the hotel for a shower and change of clothes before deciding where to eat tonight.
Walking across the street I try the Raven and Moon again only to find another 40 minute wait. I don’t think so and stroll down the street to a small rather nondescript Mexican place. Food and service were excellent and a great value to boot. I walk around town for a little until around 8:00 when the expected rain begins to fall. This had been in the forecast and I hope it all passes through while I sleep. With daylight savings time ending at 02:00 I’m supposed to gain an hour of sleep but my body has different ideas. I get up at my regular time, which is now an hour earlier, and shower before hitting the breakfast buffet. I pack and enter my planned route home.
In the interest of giving the area a fair evaluation but having limited time I’ve picked the posted SE Coal region route and plan to ride this as far as Centralia before heading home. Centralia is now a ghost town due to the underground coal fires that have burned for more than 50 years. I’ve always wanted to see this and am happy to make this part of my route. I’m not happy that it’s raining and there are a lot of wet leaves on many of these roads. This route is also unfortunately for me twistier than yesterday’s ride. These roads still aren’t what we’ve seen in recent EOM meets but they’re better than the route I rode Saturday. There is a fair amount of very pretty scenery today in spite of the weather and Centralia is somewhere I will revisit on a nicer day. It’s kind of eerie because while the GPS shows roads and the roads still exist they’re no longer maintained and there are no houses here anymore. I leave with the feeling I had been on a movie set but I know the story and that this was once a thriving town. Weird.
Weather has not improved so I tell the Garmin to just get me home. Slightly more than an hour later I pull into my garage and strip off my gear. I guess the question is, “would this make a good venue for EOM?” In the interest of fairness to all and trying to remain impartial to the fact it would only be a hundred miles for myself here are the facts;
Hotel – one of the nicest places I’ve ever stayed. Even if EOM is not held here I will return and ride more in this part of my home state. There are guest laundry facilities on most floors allowing you to do your wash in the evenings saving some trouble if traveling more than a couple of days. Parking lot social should be acceptable and the area around the pool should be available to us as well.
Roads – I only got to sample one of the routes and a portion of another. Saturday’s ride was nice, good scenery, places to stop with good views but not really twisty enough. For fans of the Dragon or Snake you will be disappointed. Sunday’s ride was better but rain and wet leaves on the road limited my ability to really enjoy myself. I inverted the route from what was posted to make more sense for my drive home also. This route I will go back and do again. The other routes all look nice but PA does not offer the extended periods of really twisty roads the southern states have. More sweepers and touring sort of stuff than sportbike nirvana.
Restaurants – more and better choices than the EOM events I’ve attended so far. This is no offense to organizers just an observation that this venue being in town is very pedestrian friendly. Plenty of bars as well for those so inclined. Franchise names are only a short ride away, about 2 miles from the hotel.
Other things to do – Williamsport is home to the Little League World Series and boasts a museum to that effect. It was a onetime lumber capitol and there are some beautiful homes on “Millionaires Row”. The PA Grand Canyon is on one of the routes as is Hyner View State Park which features awesome views and one of the few sites in PA where folks can hang glide. Bloomsburg is not far and the home of Bill’s Old Bike Barn, a small motorcycle museum that last I visited was only $5 admission. Centralia is on the SE Coal Region loop and is a ghost town where families were forced to leave after the underground coal first made the area uninhabitable.
I would be okay with Williamsport being the host city. As sated above I’ll be going back myself even if it’s not the majority choice. There are plenty of things to see and do using this area as a hub and the routes from the New England Rider’s website look decent. I’m sure with a little bit of scouting we can find more.
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