02 sniffer tuning with my 07FJR1300A

Hello all,

Well, here is what I discovered while tuning my 07FJR1300A with my handy dandy Innovative LM1 Wideband 02 sniffer.....

First of all.. For those here that are not familiar with my bike's power modifications for wicked HP/TQ tune in here:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...hl=wicked+webby

Also, I still have my CATS in place but have removed the Air induction system, see here:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...hl=wicked+webby

So now you know my bike's setups. You should also consider that I am approximately 900ft above sea level where I live.

(How I extremely fine tuned my bike

I extremely fine tuned my bike during road riding/testing by data logging my bikes AFR readings during 3rd and 4th gear pulls. For wide open throttle tuning (top end), I would be riding my bike just under 3K. Then, I would go WOT, tap the record button on my LM1, record until redline and tap the record button again (to stop data logging) before I let off the throttle. For acceleration tuning (mid range), I would be riding my bike just under 3k. Then, I would spin the throttle up approximately 50%, tap the record button on my LM1, record until redline and tap the record button again (to stop data logging) before letting off the throttle.

Here is my Innovative LM1 tuner hooked up and displaying a lean idle:



Here is how I placed the Innovative LM1 tuner on my tank bag (I used velcro, zip ties, and a mp3 armband):



Here is the Wideband 02 sensor installed in my stock bung and how I tied up the stock 02 during testing:



This is one of the datalog display gauge playback options you can use on your laptop while playing back your AFR data:



Here is how rich my bike was running before fine tuning her (though she still went fast!!) :



This is how she ended up after 24 different tuning runs and some road testing against my Brothers Hopped up 06:



Now she is faster yet!!!

(Summary

I discovered some of what I already knew about how my 07FJR1300A's fuel map runs out and some new things. To start, I was runnig too rich in a lot of places. I found that the stock fuel curve tends to be leaner at the bottom, just about right in the middle, and a bit rich on the top.. Of course, mine was a bit fuel enhanced because I was running my CO levels set at 33 across on all four cylinders (from sniffing it on the dyno). It should be noted that after I disconnected my 02 sensor and got rid of the air induction system, my bike did run even richer. I suspect this was because of the 02 sensor no longer was in control of that lean state and low throttle settings. During tuning, I dropped my CO levels to 30 across all four cylinders. This gave me the best mid range accel against other bikes. This also allowed me to leave my Techlusion Mid Dial/pot 2 at 1 o'clock positon(off). With this CO level setting, I am a bit lean on the bottom end but not too lean. I could of added a little fuel here (Dial/pot 1 liked the 1:30 o'clock position). This setting gave me the 3k throttle wheelies instead of the usual 5k wheelies!! Though, I chose to leave it at 1 o'clock for better gas mileage and I never seem to be riding hard under 4k anyways. I had to really richen up the top end, even with the CO set at 30. Dial/Pot 3 liked 2:15-2:30 o'clock position for the best WOT power and best top speed performance. I left Dial/Pot 4 (the RPM fuel slide) set at the 5 o'clock position for better gas mileage. Also, the AFR reader taught me that my FJR makes the best power just under 13 AFR.. It seems to really like hovering around 12.8 AFR for the best power under WOT.

It should be noted that before this extreme fine tuning.. I could edge my Brother's similiar modded 06 (He does not have the Techlusion and only has the left side of his Air box done) around 3-4 bike lengths in roll-on acceleration(3) and top end runs(4). This extreme fine tuning has been a good thing because now I can get him by 7-10 bikes lengths in roll-on acceleration(7) and top end runs (10). These runs were done with my bike in the "better MPG mode" with Dial/pot #1 at the 1 o'clock postion.

Happy HP Hunting!!

WW

Great info webby. I am going the power commander route again for two reasons. First I am very familiar with fine tuning them

and second I wanted to incorperate a dynojet quick shifter on my bike which requires the power commander. Dynojet doesn't list

a ready made application kit for the quickshifter on the FJR but it is easily made from the available list of linkage adaptors.

They said the only reason they had not made a kit was there was no demand from FJR owners. Stands to reason as most

of you FJR riders could care less about racing your bikes (WW & present company being exceptions). It's really neat to do full

throttle power shifts without touching the clutch. Kind of like a air shifter without the complication. Easily drops 1/4 mile times

by 2 to 3 tenths of a second for all but the most experienced 1/4 mile throttle jockeys.

John

Thanks Jstewart,

Your right about a lot of riders not caring about tuning. Until they ride with some that have done it (right)... Hahahahahah!!! I have seen a lot of squids effectively de-tune their rides when they don't know what their doing.. A lot of bad info out there.

Nothing wrong with the PWC!! I have used them plenty.. Just make sure you don't get one of them new "street legal" versions. I think the quick shift option would be super cool!! I have done my share of tuning in my days and I really like how simple and effective the Techlusion makes it. I don't have nothing bad to say about the PWC. Just preference. BTW, I will be hitting the dyno again to see how much I have gain on my previous tune.

Take care,

WW

WW,

Looks like you are almost there. Next step would be to cut and weld bungs in the individual header pipes so you can see what's going on in each cylinder. We know that the stock CO settings vary widely (especially on earlier engines), yet for some reason later bikes had the same settings on all the bikes and some even have 10's across the board. I have a feeling that the settings were not optimized experimentally for each bike, but rather they found some settings that made them pass emissions on the average bike and then just them plugged in.

The stock O2 bung, being in the collected output, just looks at the combined average of the 4 cylinders. One could be running rich and another very lean resulting in what you see as an average. Balancing the 4 cylinders could net some big improvements and result in a smoother running engine as well.

Too bad it would be such a PITA to swap headers for a tuning session. I assume that you would not want to hack up your own header...

Fred W said:

WW,
Looks like you are almost there. Next step would be to cut and weld bungs in the individual header pipes so you can see what's going on in each cylinder. We know that the stock CO settings vary widely (especially on earlier engines), yet for some reason later bikes had the same settings on all the bikes and some even have 10's across the board. I have a feeling that the settings were not optimized experimentally for each bike, but rather they found some settings that made them pass emissions on the average bike and then just them plugged in.

The stock O2 bung, being in the collected output, just looks at the combined average of the 4 cylinders. One could be running rich and another very lean resulting in what you see as an average. Balancing the 4 cylinders could net some big improvements and result in a smoother running engine as well.

Too bad it would be such a PITA to swap headers for a tuning session. I assume that you would not want to hack up your own header...

Click to expand...

My 05 FJR came with co settings that varied from 5 to 22. The 08 came with co settings of 10 on all four cylinders. The co sensor plug for the 08 is also a 4 wire where the sensor plug for the 05 was a 2 wire plug. Haven't looked at the wiring diag. but I assume the 08 is a heated sensor (reason for 4 wires). The newer model (06 -08's) appear to have made quite a few changes in the fuel injection over the earlier model.

jstewart said:

My 05 FJR came with co settings that varied from 5 to 22. The 08 came with co settings of 10 on all four cylinders. The co sensor plug for the 08 is also a 4 wire where the sensor plug for the 05 was a 2 wire plug. Haven't looked at the wiring diag. but I assume the 08 is a heated sensor (reason for 4 wires). The newer model (06 -08's) appear to have made quite a few changes in the fuel injection over the earlier model.

Click to expand...

Yes, the extra 2 wires on a 4 wire sensor are the heater wires. They only effect how quickly (and repeatably) the unit will go closed loop after a cold start up. Of course the type of O2 sensor is moot if you unplug it.

Wicked Webby said:

Thanks Jstewart,
Your right about a lot of riders not caring about tuning. Until they ride with some that have done it (right)... Hahahahahah!!! I have seen a lot of squids effectively de-tune their rides when they don't know what their doing.. A lot of bad info out there.

Nothing wrong with the PWC!! I have used them plenty.. Just make sure you don't get one of them new "street legal" versions. I think the quick shift option would be super cool!! I have done my share of tuning in my days and I really like how simple and effective the Techlusion makes it. I don't have nothing bad to say about the PWC. Just preference. BTW, I will be hitting the dyno again to see how much I have gain on my previous tune.

Take care,

WW

Click to expand...

Look forward to hearing the results WW. I will be going up to Ryan Schnitz on the 16th to have the FJR dyno tuned. I am antisipating more moderate results than you have achieved because I have not freed up as much inlet area. I am also taking up my ZX-14 so he can test several different size velocity stacks they are selling for the ZX-14.

I still haven't made up my mind about which innovate data logger to buy. This will be primarily for my ZX-14 since that is the bike I am more serious about tuning. The DL-32 is probably the way I will go because it is more compact and there is very little space to mount anything under the seat of the ZX-14.

Unless I am reading the graphs you posted incorrectly I assume that you are not logging rpm's in the graphed runs. I would like to data log RPM's, throttle position %, and co readings for each sample increment and export this information to a excel spreadsheet foremat. This would give a much more detailed look at a run broken down into small RPM increments. No data logger mfg seems to have a software foremat that will give me the data in this foremat except the Dynojet data logging system and I can't find any serious tuner who thinks they're system works well.

Fred,

As of now. No, I will not be hacking up my headers... However..... Another member posted(sorry I couldn't find the post again) up that he had sniffed each cylinder via the air induction ports (that I plugged). I may rig up some sort of plumbing adapter that I can use to hook up my wideband 02 sensor in there... Not so much that I need to know a specific reading(as you know it would not be the same value as the pre-cat 02) BUT.... Just to have them all read the same! Though, for now... My bike screams and runs out very very nice!! Time to ride for a while!!!

Jstewart,

You are correct.. No rpm logging at this time.. Though, I do have the mid priced model that can do it (amongst too many other scientific things).. I just didn't calibrate it for that yet and HONESTLY.. I probably won't need to. Based on the fact that I am not trying to make a PWC map using specific rpms and throttle positions. I know that the start of my data times during recording/playback was always 3k and the end was 9300k. So close enough for me if you get my drift. I is amazing how much cleaner, crisp, and responsive the throttle is when you have it dialed in!!!

I will let you know how my extra tuned dyno run plays out. Still gotta get an appointment (this time of year they are pretty busy).

WW

A lot of great info WW. Appreciate sharing this and hope to maybe glean a little out of my 08. I am not a racer but I like power. For some reason I like to wax goldwings. I have a couple of friends that are constatnly bragging on their wings. How well they handle and how powerful they are. They act like their are the only good road bikes. Wax doesn't mean polishing. Just so somebody don't get wise.

One of the bennys of the Holeshot header is that, being catless, you can sniff left or right cylinders (paired, but still usable to a great degree).

Wicked Webby said:

Fred H,
As of now. No, I will not be hacking up my headers... However..... Another member posted(sorry I couldn't find the post again) up that he had sniffed each cylinder via the air induction ports (that I plugged). I may rig up some sort of plumbing adapter that I can use to hook up my wideband 02 sensor in there... Not so much that I need to know a specific reading(as you know it would not be the same value as the pre-cat 02) BUT.... Just to have them all read the same! Though, for now... My bike screams and runs out very very nice!! Time to ride for a while!!!

WW

Click to expand...

Not sure who Fred H is, but I'll answer for him anyway.

What you said gave me an idea. What about the air induction ports in the head (where the reed valves normally reside). I have not looked at the air induction schema to be certain, but I believe that is in the exhaust stream once they are blocked off and no longer being supplied with fresh air. Maybe there is a way to thread a block-off plate for an O2 sensor and stick it on there.

Fred W said:

Wicked Webby said:

Fred H,
As of now. No, I will not be hacking up my headers... However..... Another member posted(sorry I couldn't find the post again) up that he had sniffed each cylinder via the air induction ports (that I plugged). I may rig up some sort of plumbing adapter that I can use to hook up my wideband 02 sensor in there... Not so much that I need to know a specific reading(as you know it would not be the same value as the pre-cat 02) BUT.... Just to have them all read the same! Though, for now... My bike screams and runs out very very nice!! Time to ride for a while!!!

WW

Click to expand...

What you said gave me an idea. What about the air induction ports in the head (where the reed valves normally reside). I have not looked at the air induction schema to be certain, but I believe that is in the exhaust stream once they are blocked off and no longer being supplied with fresh air. Maybe there is a way to thread a block-off plate for an O2 sensor and stick it on there.

Click to expand...

Fred,

Sorry typo (fixed it). Yes, that is basically what I was referring too. Would be pretty simple.

Radman,

Good point on the Holeshot headers. If I ever get them, I would put a bung on each side!! They are a very good product.

Big Ears,

Glad you got some use out of this info. I hear you on the "waxing" thing. I like to wax a lot of things too(other than me ride) :blink: :blink: !!

HAhahahahahahaha!

WW