Cramming 4 HID Ballasts In The Nose

I got ambitious this weekend and figured I'd try and install all the electircal farkles that I've bought, but not yet got around to.

1. Low Beam HID lights

2. Reposition Hella FF200 Ballasts

3. Widders

4. **** box to control the Hellas and Widders.

Well, unfortunately doing the low beam HID's means there's not enough space with the existing Hella FF200 ballasts and the threads get even more complicated. I basically, had to redo everything including my barrier strip. Then a round of fuse popping because my radar detector power cord (made from phone line) decided to confuse things.

About 15 hours and counting.

I did get the lights working and THEY ARE FRIGGIN' bright. I ordered the 6000K low beams purposely to look a little bluer. [swishyvoice]I'm a slave to boulevard cruising and they complement my Galaxy blue paint job.[/swishyvoice]

A few sneak pics:



Front end apart



Old barrier strip rats nest



Stuffing Widder controller and toggle switch in **** box. The box is an indulgence from Bill McAvan and is top quality. Just enough room for it all.



New placement of FF200 ballast after learning from Doug Chapman. It's a SNUG fit. You can see the new placement and clean-up of the barrier strip.



Another tight fit for the HID low beam ballasts. With creative velcro use I think they just barely clear the windshield retractor. Igniters are in other nooks and crannies.



Still not done cleaning up wires. I need to shorten and do some creative zip tying of bundles. This part is daunting because I'm stuffing wires whereever I can. I'm hoping nothing goes bad because fixing this mess isn't by the side of the road type work. I am going to carry a spare set of H4's with me as I could retrofit it back in a pinch.



I couldn't help but fire up the bling-bling low beams. There's a blue tint to them and the cutoff along the door is much crisper than the stock H4 bulbs.



A side view and you can tell color difference between the FF200 flamethrowers and the 6000K low beams.



And here would be the perspective from a forest rat. I wonder if they'll notice the lower half of the headlight area is dim from the cutoff?

Nice work! I'm not familiar with the Hellas. are they HID stock, converted or something else?

Have you spoken to Jestal about his install? He did some creative work as well, shortening the wiring harness to help it all fit better.

I'll be doing mine pretty soon, I hope. Got an issue with the tick repair that may be a problem and need to work that out first.

And here would be the perspective from a forest rat. I wonder if they'll notice the lower half of the headlight area is dim from the cutoff?

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Hmmm, might make it worse. They'll think they're walkin' toward the lord!

DAMN, Emergency, Police, and Fire departments could use your bike to light up scenes. Close Encounters of the Third Kind comes to mind.

Great Job.

A tip for other installers planning on serious work within the fairing-2" masking tape over all exposed upper fairing areas goes a long way towards keeping the finish decent looking.

2" masking tape over all exposed upper fairing areas goes a long way towards keeping the finish decent looking.

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Duly noted, and thanks!

A tip for other installers planning on serious work within the fairing-2" masking tape over all exposed upper fairing areas goes a long way towards keeping the finish decent looking.

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And if you use the blue masking tape (designed for masking surfaces for painting) it'll come off easier and be less likely to leave any "goo" behind.

Nice work! I'm not familiar with the Hellas. are they HID stock, converted or something else?

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The FF200 are purpose built HID's from Hella. Retail for $600 to $700 and I scored a set off eBay when you all weren't looking for $315. They're magnesium case and use the "old" generation combination ballasts an igniters...so placement is very tricky. That thick cable with the red connector end does not unplug.

Hella does make a non-HID version of the FF200 and I bought a set of them in fog light version for about $100. But, other than the overall shape they are completely different. Plastic case, galvanized mounting tap, H3 bulb, and the

Because the lamps are so large (at about 5.25") and the reflectors are very efficient. Barring a set of PIAA's for over a grand....I think they put the most light out there of anything on the market.

Me and the boys are having a night time baseball game. Problem is, the field has no lights. You available for hire with that thing? Sheesh!

I managed to get the HI/LO HID lights packaged into the head lamp assembly. Ballasts in between the head lights, one underneath the shelf and one on edge in the middle. The two igniters on top of the head light assembly with industrial sticky velcro...they will just clear the windshield mechanism if you are careful. The "12 volt controller" fits under the lower ballast. The relays and such on either side. First, I took small scissors and cut ALL the black vinyl sleeving off the wiring harness. That crap is stiff and takes up twice as much room as the wire alone. Then I ended up cutting and splicing nearly every wire in the harness to shorten things up and route and package it better. EVERYTHING is on the headlight assembly and it fits into the fairing and onto the bike mounts with no intereference. Likes like a rats nest no matter how clean I tried to make it but it all does fit and is very securely fastened.

I'm like you, I'm packing two H4 bulbs with me because if the HIDs take a dump it will NOT be a side of the road repair. The H4's can slip back in and plug in for temporary work.

Now, I have the same problem with the driving lights and fitting the HID ballasts. The ones I have are an older set of Protocal brand HID lights that are very similar in appearance to what you show there. Same non-disconnectable high voltage cable and same big ballast/igniter box. I'm still scratching my head where they are going to go.

One thing you might want to do is to hit an autobody supply and buy some trim/molding two sided tape. It is much stronger than simple two sided foam backed tape and doesn't degrade in moisture and weather. Much more permanent way to mount things than simple two sided tape from Walmart.

First, I took small scissors and cut ALL the black vinyl sleeving off the wiring harness. That crap is stiff and takes up twice as much room as the wire alone. Then I ended up cutting and splicing nearly every wire in the harness to shorten things up and route and package it better.

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Very interesting! I thought a bit about that, but a bit worried about which part might be high voltage and kinda need that sleeving. My guess is that the more critical part would maybe be from the black units (igniters?) to the bulbs? You wouldn't think you're at risk for arcing across the wires?

First, I took small scissors and cut ALL the black vinyl sleeving off the wiring harness.  That crap is stiff and takes up twice as much room as the wire alone.  Then I ended up cutting and splicing nearly every wire in the harness to shorten things up and route and package it better.

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Very interesting! I thought a bit about that, but a bit worried about which part might be high voltage and kinda need that sleeving. My guess is that the more critical part would maybe be from the black units (igniters?) to the bulbs? You wouldn't think you're at risk for arcing across the wires?

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The sleeving is for abrasion resistance-not insulating qualities.

Garage is way too clean!!!

I'm with rad. That sleeving is just for armor not insulation. Ditch it and gain a LOT of flexibility and room. I cut out a large handfull of wire in addition to the sleeving. I just spliced, soldered and shrink wrapped the joints so I could route the wires as I wanted and get rid of the excess. Used some of those stick on cable ties anchors and clips to hold things in place.

I didn't cut or splice any of the high voltage lines from the ballast to the igniter and to the bulb, by the way. Just the 12 volt stuff. The sleeving is only on the 12 volt stuff even if it were helping with insulation.

I had my assembly put together and have let it "burn" on the workbench for about 12 hours now and it is fine and nothing seems to be overheating or arching or anything so I think it is safe to put it on the bike.

I wish I could find a place to put those boxes for the driving lights, though. They just don't fit any place close enough for the high voltage leads provided.

Some additional, possibly useful HID info:

On most D1 lamp (burner) set-ups the harness is constructed with the shielding woven around the internal conductors. The woven metallic shield is sometimes complimented with a mylar backed foil. Its primary function is to prevent radiated and conducted emissions (EMI) from interfering with computers, cell phones, radios etc. Also adds some mechanical robustness to the cable. The outer rubber jacket is usually for environmental sealing of the harness, etc. The internal positive conductor can see voltages in the 100V range, so take care not to nick/damage the wire when buuilding rats nests.

Each ballast assembly will need to dissapate about 7 watts under normal operation. Shouldn't be a problem if the bike is moving and at reasonable temps. Most ballast circuits have a ramp down ability if the operating temp gets too high- like a self protection mode. Just a caution to leave a little room around them for circulation.

The ballasts will draw big amps for about 1-4 tenths of a second when you switch them on. Upwards of 10 amps are possible IIRC. But very short duration. just be sure your fuses can accommodate that load.

Some of the lamp ballast assemblies have fairly long cables available which could allow mounting the ballasts in the lower fairings. Just maybe. I haven't been in the industry for a few years now, so I don't know whats currently available. I know that Osram Sylvania used to offer a 30" harness (ballast to lamp) to some after market resellers.

Nice work to you packaging engineers. It ain't easy

FJReady

Clarification:

Ignacios external lights shown use lamps called D2. That system has the burner ignitor in the ballast, not on the lamp like the newer D1 systems (European chronology system; D2 preceding D1). That big black cable has to handle about 25kilovolts to ignite the burner- give it due respect.

FJReady

That big black cable has to handle about 25kilovolts to ignite the burner- give it due respect.

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Yeah. I accidentally fired one of the lights up without the connector to the light for a portion of a second. Thought it was a fuse pop until it was on the wrong side of the bike and kept going.

.....now if I can just trick the neighbor dog into peeing on it..... :blink:

Good info otherwise. Going to commence stripping and routing with care.

As for the other ballasts you're trying to place Jestal.....if they're similar size to my FF200...try putting the left one in the nook opposite the one I show in the right. That side goes in way easier. If it would fit...then you'd have a pretty good chance of also getting the right one in.

So that was that unusual light pattern in our southern skies the other night?

Very nice work

Ignacio, Did this releive the bulges, If so I think I will move my right ballast to that location also. Right now mine is lower down next to battery and doesnt allow the plastic to fit quite right.

That clean barrier strip sure looks nice!!

Ignacio, Did this releive the bulges, If so I think I will move my right ballast to that location also. Right now mine is lower down next to battery and doesnt allow the plastic to fit quite right.

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I have not 100% confirmed that just yet, but feel fairly confident it will. This placement was suggested by Doug Chapman that has run like this for some time and has said specifically there's no bulge on his. He said he also wrapped his ballasts up and stuck in a couple pieces of foam at critical spots.

I did a quick dry fit of the right panel only and I didn't find any bulge. I think the barrier strip is going to be the tight part with all the terminals on top. I also think screwing that right hex head that's part of the light bracket might be a bit tricky.

I'm hoping to finish it up tonight or tomorrow and will post a final outcome on this whole project.