Audiovox

Spent over 8 hours with a friend of mine, installing audiovox CC. Taking the bike apart was quite strightforward. The advice for the Forum members was very helpful. Skyway called on Friday to verify shipping of the CC mount and gave me a few helpful hints. What a quality gentleman. Very pleasant to talk to and eager to help.

With all the advice we got, drilling a hole in the throttle pulley tang and installing the beaded chain was a breeze. I decided to use TB#1 (I am perfectly aware of the differing opinions here, but thought I will give this set up a try) as the vacuum source and connected it to the serveo motor with a check valve. No problems there.

The electrical part the install was a whole other story. Nothing was easy. I decided to follow FJRCarsShopGuy scheme and attch it to the thin brown wire off fuse box #1 (to the 12 V power adapator in the glove box). Getting there was a royal PIA. The 3-M scotch lock connector would not have good contact with the wires. We were finally able to somehow get power from there. Checked all the connection (yellow, green and brown to the same, red to red with the grey spliced into it, red to power source and blue to ingintion coil (a la FJRCarsShopGuy). Black to gound, purple and red from the servo to yellow and blue from the brake line harness. The control pad light came on.

Buttoned her up and went for a test. No luck. Not only that, my power commender is now dead ( and my friend and were nearly dead too after 8 hours with no luck).

Questions:

1- Is there another power feed source that easier to reach snd more reliable that the one above? What do you think of that from the ignition assembly, behind the steering head just inside the frame?

2- Why is my servo motor not working?

3- Why is my power commander dead? I did take the ground off while removing the heat shield and did not install it until I was ready tp reassemble the bike, but turned the power on a few times.

Help, please. This is particularly painful since the finsal result was probably a fired PCIII and no success. Sam

Paging Mr. Smitty, Mr. Smitty. Please pick up the nearest, white courtesy phone.

I'd leave the ignition wires alone.

Are you getting a red LED light on the back of the CC servo? No light, no power. Does the bike start and the LED flash sync'd with engine RPM? No flash, no RPM information or wrong dip settings.

Got any other farkles particularly brake light farkles installed or anything else tapped into the brake light line? Sometimes a draw on the brake light juice will make the servo think someone has their foot on the brake and it won't engage.

There's a trouble shooting guide in the back of the CCS100 instruction manual.

No clue about your PCIII. Are there common connections to the CC wires? Tach signal? Dunno.

Those Scotchlok connectors are trouble waiting to happen. Electrical connections in an exposed environment should be done by stripping back the insulation, twisting the wires together and then soldering the joint. Protect the joint with electrical tape or (preferably) heat shrink tubing.

Assuming you have the electricals connected properly and there is adequate vacume, the problem can be related to the brake input.

One area where many have problems on the CCS-100 is with the brake switch input. For some reason it is VERY sensitive to the input. For a trial only, disconnect the purple wire and tie it to a hard ground and retest the installation. If it works, you'll likely have to have the brakes control a relay and control the purple wire from the relay contacts - had this issue when I did the CCS-100 on my old Conours.

I have a new electrical tool useful for solving frustrating electrical accessory problems. I like it a lot:



Put the problem accessory in the center of your workbench, and apply the tool with force. Frustration ends immediately.

Jb

FJRocket said:

I'd leave the ignition wires alone.
Are you getting a red LED light on the back of the CC servo? No light, no power. Does the bike start and the LED flash sync'd with engine RPM? No flash, no RPM information or wrong dip settings.

Got any other farkles particularly brake light farkles installed or anything else tapped into the brake light line? Sometimes a draw on the brake light juice will make the servo think someone has their foot on the brake and it won't engage.

There's a trouble shooting guide in the back of the CCS100 instruction manual.

No clue about your PCIII. Are there common connections to the CC wires? Tach signal? Dunno.

Click to expand...

Matt said it all... Check all of the above... I will pm you my phone #, be glad to help if I can... Smitty

<<< The electrical part the install was a whole other story. Nothing was easy. I decided to follow FJRCarsShopGuy scheme and attch it to the thin brown wire off fuse box #1 (to the 12 V power adapator in the glove box). >>>

I'd check that fuse, make sure it isn't blown and rated to handle the draw from the CC.

Ditch the scotchlocks immediately. Period. They are worse than useless....they are misleading. You will have a contact at one point and then it will be gone. They are notorious for intermittants, cutting the host wire, etc. An intermittant anywhere with the cruise system will cause all sorts of problems. Besides, you just took a nice, hermetcially sealed wiring harness and introduced a cut in the insulation that will allow moisture into the wire where it can wick thru the entire harness. Solder and seal the connections.

With that vacuum setup feeding off of one throttle body you will need some sort of vacuum reservour to mitigate the weak vaccuum source if you really want it to work.

Are you SURE you have the vacuum check valve in the vacuum supply correctly. It is a check valve and functions like a vacuum "diode". If it is in the wrong way it will prevent vaccuum from reaching the servo. Start the engine and disconnect the vacuum hose leading to the servo AT THE SERVO. Make sure there is vacuum at the servo with the engine running. NO vac = no worky.

Disconnect the wire to the brake switch override and try the cruise. Be aware that the cruise (if it works) will not disable with the brakes so keep your finger on the OFF switch. This will eliminate a number of brake circuit related potential problems for the moment to tell you if that is the place to look.

You know that the cruise will not work with the bike on the centerstand in the garage..???? You just about have to ride it to check it's operation. The driveline oscillations sitting on the centerstand, unloaded, will not let the cruise work.

Disconnect the power commander entirely and/or disconnect the battery to power it down completely for several minutes. It may need to be reset after being scrambled from the power up with no ground. I doubt that you killed it......

You, gentlemen, are all great. Your interest in my problem and the time you took to help and explain say a lot about FJR owners. Smitty and Rogue both PM'd their phone numbers and gave me a lot of helpful hints. The problem was a reversed check valve. I corrected that. I'll put the tank back on and test the CC. Can't thank you enough for all the help. Sam

I am just finishing the install of my CC and would like to to forward a few questions as well for those of you in the "know".

I used FJRcarshopguy for the the bulk of the install, my sincere thanks for the write up and photos, my install was very close to what was in the tutorial. I set the dip switches per the writeup but the CC instructions seem to differ from the dip positions stipulated. Also the CC instructions call for installation with manual transmissions to remove the black jumper connector and since it was not mentioned in the writeup I left it in, really I didn't see it but saw it mentioned in the CC instructions.

Is this correct?

Is the position of the dip switches with No. 1,4,7 ON and No. 2,3,5,7 OFF, correct?

I hooked up my vacuum line as was written by FJRcarshopguy despite the intellectual fued with Jestel (some of that was too much for me to absorb), will that be of any problem?

I have powered up the bike and the control pad does illuminate and the bike will start and run as normal. I have not been able to ride the bike due to crummy weather and work schedule. I was able to solder all connections to the factory harness and used high quality connectors where applicable, soo I'm hoping for the best.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

LancasterFJR said:

Skyway called on Friday to verify shipping of the CC mount and gave me a few helpful hints. What a quality gentleman. Very pleasant to talk to and eager to help. With all the advice we got, drilling a hole in the throttle pulley tang and installing the beaded chain was a breeze.

Click to expand...

Hi Sam, sounds like you now have it all figured out, congratulations. Just take it a little easy with the compliments, I have a mean image reputation to uphold.

Don't make me go Skyway on your a$$. :lol:

Is the position of the dip switches with No. 1,4,7 ON and No. 2,3,5,7 OFF, correct?

Click to expand...

Dip switches No. 1, 4, 7 ON and No. 2, 3, 5, [SIZE=18pt] 6 [/SIZE] OFF is correct.

I'm from the 'use the TB vacuum tap' camp. I must also must confess to believing that a vacuum reservoir is a good thing. YMMV. Be sure the bead chain has the minimum amount of slack that you can reliably get away with.

ionbeam said:

Is the position of the dip switches with No. 1,4,7 ON and No. 2,3,5,7 OFF, correct?

Click to expand...

Dip switches No. 1, 4, 7 ON and No. 2, 3, 5, [SIZE=18pt] 6 [/SIZE] OFF is correct.

I'm from the 'use the TB vacuum tap' camp. I must also must confess to believing that a vacuum reservoir is a good thing. YMMV. Be sure the bead chain has the minimum amount of slack that you can reliably get away with.

Click to expand...

Thanks Ion,

I too have added a vacuum reservior, I put a check valve in as well. I'm a little worried about the check valve as the un-seat pressure seems a little excessive.

Any idea about the jumper?

The jumper should be OFF. The way electronic techs normally do that is to pull the jumper off of both pins, turn it 90° and put it back on just ONE pin. This keeps the jumper on hand, should you ever need it again.

One last thing is sealing the control pad. Sealing the back of the pad is necessary but it is also very necessary (IMO) to seal around the 'switches' on the front panel. The switch is actually a rubber membrane with little carbon dots on the back side that makes half of the switch contact. At each switch location the circuit board behind the membrane has a set of interlaced conductors that make up the other half of the switch -- picture your fingers interlaced but not quite touching. When the switch is pressed, the carbon dot shorts these conductors together completing the switch. A water drop will do the same thing, especially if it isn't clean water such as wash water. If water gets on the ON button, the CC will turn on and you won't be able to turn it off. If the CC is on and you are going around a corner and water unexpectedly makes the ACCELERATE circuit turn on, life could become an adventure I popped the switch housing open then used a toothpick and RTV to draw a narrow ring of sealant around all the openings. It doesn't take much to do the job, just be sure the RTV stays off the black carbon dots and off the interlaced fingers on the circuit board.

Lake Powell said:

I am just finishing the install of my CC and would like to to forward a few questions as well for those of you in the "know".
I hooked up my vacuum line as was written by FJRcarshopguy despite the intellectual fued with Jestel (some of that was too much for me to absorb), will that be of any problem?

Click to expand...

Proves who is in the know ............. or not!

Uh...problem....no....it will not cause me any problems at all if you hook your vacuum supply to the MAP sensor feed.

Seriously, If you cannot understand how it could cause a problem then you will likely not be able to recognize the problem when it occurs. Hint...if you start experiencing unusual driveablity issues, sags, hesitations, mystery bumps when rolling off/on the throttle, etc. then you just might consider putting the vaccuum supply to the throttle body vacuum service ports and putting the MAP signal lines back like Yamaha designed/vallidated them.

The single most important sensor in a speed density fuel injection system is the MAP sensor. Much work by the manufacturer goes into assuring the fidelity of the MAP signal. Don't let the fact that you just changed the length of the line, the volume in the line and added unknown resonance volume to the MAP line with your install bother you. Hopefully it will not bother the MAP signal either.

jestalia

Hooked it up to the battery and went for a test drive. Activated the CC and it WORKED. It was very windy. A little slow to reach the set speed (5 seconds or so), but then it maintained the speed. Still waiting for Smitty to send me a schematic of his power feed. Thank you all very much.

Thanks for the tip on waterproofing the control pad IB :clapping: