Smitty Audiovox CCS-100 Install...

CC Install

Grand Master Smitty installed an audiovox unit in my '05 during his recent L.A. tour last February. He finished the installation in a bit over 2 hours, IIRC, and it was a genuine pleasure to see someone who knows what they are doing doing what they know how to do.

Anyway, I'd opted out of getting Skyway's cool aluminum control pad mount, because, stacked atop the switch housing, it interferes with my Hippo Hands handlebar muffs. So I asked Smitty to install the CC control pad on a bracket he offers. It's much lower profile, but its placement required you to move your hand from the handlebar grip to operate, and it was always a bit of a distraction "hunting" for the button.

So I took a tip from earlier postings on this and other forums and junked the control pad in favor of a simple 3-way toggle switch. Easy to reach and its now a simple tactile operation with a fore finger, so the hand stays on the grip. Aesthetically pleasing as well.



Operation

Wired like this, the cruise control is always on (armed), but only engages when the switch is toggled. It is disengaged by operating the brakes or clutch. As I have it wired:

Toggle back (toward you) selects SET/COAST

Toggle forward (away from you) selects RESUME/ACCEL[/indent]

Parts

I ordered the following two items McMaster-Carr:

#7347K74: Miniature toggle switch, SPDT (on)-off-(on) rated at 4 amps @ 30V DC.

#70205K311: Toggle switch seal and boot, 1/4"-40 BUSHING SIZE, .59" Height, Grey.

But there are many other suppliers offering suitable switches.

Wiring

Snip off the six wires where they enter the control pad.

Only the brown (signal power), green (set), and yellow (resume) wires will need to carried to the toggle switch. The other wires between the control pad and the first electrical connector can be discarded.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the back of the clutch-side switch housing and mount the toggle switch. Weatherproof the hole with a sealant.

In order from bottom to top lug, solder the green, brown and yellow wires to the toggle switch. Insulate the solder joints with liquid electrical tape or equivalent.

In order to signal the servo that it is always on (armed), you will need to send +12v down the brown wire toward the servo. Easiest to do by bridging the red and brown wires. I used a handy Posi-Tap so I could "undo" it if I had to. But a solder joint would work as well.

All of this is carefully documented at the BestBits website

Nice... and clever...

Me likey! Another similar arrangement can be used if on/off is still desired too id imagine.

Super Sweet! I can see a toggle and booty in my future. Thanks for the great write up!

now I GOTTA have CC...

:dribble: :dribble: :dribble:

very sweet!

Apparently, the mod's been done many times. My hat's (helmet?) off to dbx, BrunDog and all of the others who pioneered this cool farkle!

I was about to ask for my royalty check...

Here is the link to how I did mine. I would caution you on the "always on" approach. Even with my on/off switch. I have accidentally left it on between rides, then accidentally hit the switch only to find the bike get a mind of its own and start to accelerate at inconvenient times. Fortunately after a few times, the surprise goes away and you just deal with it. I would however, have to believe it would happen more without the on/off switch, so please consider adding one somewhere.

My Audiovox install

-BD

BrunDog said:

I was about to ask for my royalty check...

Click to expand...

Hey, no doubt worth it! Just let me know the rate and whether it is per mile or per month.

Considering how much information I have received from this forum, no amount of money could match it.

What did people do before the internet. Just an occassional farkle you had to think up on your own, and spend the rest of the time just riding? :blink:

-BD

BrunDog said:

I have accidentally left it on between rides...

Click to expand...

The Audiovox control panel addressed this issue, in that shutting the bike down would latch the Audiovox unit to a known state (in this case OFF) in preparation for the next power cycle. Some possible solutions to address this:

(1) Replace the ON-OFF toggle switch with a pair of push button switches (one "make", the other "break") and create a latching relay circuit as in:


Press the "make" (trigger) switch to turn the CC on and the "break" (reset) switch to turn it off. The CC will always be powered off at the beginning of the next ride.
(2) Perhaps reuse the Audiovox conrol panel by "remoting" it. Replace the ON-OFF toggle switch with an (ON)-OFF-(ON) toggle switch and solder its leads into the PC board contacts of the original Audiovox control panel (still left in the circuit, but now safely potted and stuffed inside the fairing or frame).
(3) Side step the problem by doing away with the ON-OFF switch altogether and make the "known" state ON. In this design the rider is clued in that the sole toggle switch must be respected as "live" as long as this bike is running, and operate it accordingly. There is no chance that he or she might be lulled into falsely thinking that it is not "live" by having forgotten to switch it off!

I guess the biggest concern people might have with the last option, is should some remotely unlikely catastrophic failure mode of the Audiovox leave it engaged and refusing to heed both the clutch and break disengage signals. But then, isn't that what the bike's kill switch is for?

Just one rider's humble opinion!