Fairing seal/gasket windshield brackets

My 2006 AE is in the shop for seal replacement on the windshield retract arms. The gasket came loose and was binding the mechanics of the arms. Stopped by today and they said the new ones Yamaha sent will not stick any better than the old gasket. So a call into tech support has been made. I have 2 friends one with a 2006 and the other with a 2007 and both of these bikes are doing the same thing. Has anyone else noticed this going on! Probably would not be a problem but the binding issue is. Just look down into the slots that the windshield goes up/down in and see if they are hanging down in and around the small void.

Many have replaced their windshields leaving that gasket out. I did a search using Google;

"windshield gasket site:fjrforum.com", Here's the link that will get you some information. Happy reading!

madmike2 said:

Many have replaced their windshields leaving that gasket out. I did a search using Google; "windshield gasket site:fjrforum.com", Here's the link that will get you some information. Happy reading!

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I'm pretty sure he's talking about a different gasket. Where the arms go through the slots in the fairing, there's rubber seals that minimize the amount of junk going into the fairing. If those seals come loose they can cause the retract arms to bind up.

Mine still look OK, but I only have 2900 miles on the bike since buying it 3 months ago.

One side of mine is all wadded up since the dash replacement. Not taking it in but will do the fix myself. Stock double sticky tape was apparently not enough. I have some really good 3M stuff to use . . .

Harald said:

I'm pretty sure he's talking about a different gasket. Where the arms go through the slots in the fairing, there's rubber seals that minimize the amount of junk going into the fairing. If those seals come loose they can cause the retract arms to bind up.

Click to expand...

Aha! 3M weatherstrip adhesive is your friend. But that area is going to be "no fun" to get to.

I just got the info from kaitsdad on how to remove the '06 front fairing. Wish it had the removable cover between the windshield retract mechanism like the earlier FJRs did . . .On my list of things to do . . .

Yep, i just replaced mine while i had the front cowl off. I used 3M trim tape from Auto Zone. It was pretty damn sticky but removing the red backing after appling was a bitch. And the rubber piece is kind of hard to line up correctly since your working from the inside of the cowl and you can't see the slots very well. Damn rubber is flopping all over the place while your trying to get it stuck on straight. It could have turned out better but like grandma Mashburn used to say, " it's good enough for who it's for"

ROADHAZARD said:

Yep, i just replaced mine while i had the front cowl off. I used 3M trim tape from Auto Zone. It was pretty damn sticky but removing the red backing after appling was a bitch. And the rubber piece is kind of hard to line up correctly since your working from the inside of the cowl and you can't see the slots very well. Damn rubber is flopping all over the place while your trying to get it stuck on straight. It could have turned out better but like grandma Mashburn used to say, " it's good enough for who it's for"

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ROADHAZARD, just curious if that 3M tape is still working/holding? I pulled mine off before, but now have the front cowl off and really don't want to spend $120 on a new seal/gasket. So if the 3M tape held for you, it's likely to be the solution for re-using the old seal.

I used permatex vinyl sealant at 20,000 miles and the gasket is holding fast at 60,000. It's a pain to get all of the factory sticky stuff off. Clean with rubbing alcohol before applying the permatex.

vabrzn said:

I used permatex vinyl sealant at 20,000 miles and the gasket is holding fast at 60,000. It's a pain to get all of the factory sticky stuff off. Clean with rubbing alcohol before applying the permatex.

Click to expand...

Vabrzn, thanks for the info, could you please let me know which one you used, I've looked on the Permatex website but don't seem to find the description you're referring to.

Permatex.com

This was on my list for winter work. My seal was fine, it just wasn't attached to much. I removed the old seal and scraped off the original 2 way tape (that was a stupid way of doing that) and then cleaned the surface with alchohol. I then rebonded the seal using 3M 1357 glue. You paint the glue on the fairing side, then paint it on the rubber seal. When you put the two together they stick. It's kind of hard to get it just right becasue once it touches it is permanent. I did it like you do a formica counter top. I put a sheet of plastic betweent the coated gasket and fairing and removed the plastic little by little as I got it stuck in position.

Time will tell how well it holds but this glue is pretty strong. It will hold a rubber seal on the outside of an airplane, that much I know.

S76 said:

This was on my list for winter work. My seal was fine, it just wasn't attached to much. I removed the old seal and scraped off the original 2 way tape (that was a stupid way of doing that) and then cleaned the surface with alchohol. I then rebonded the seal using 3M 1357 glue. You paint the glue on the fairing side, then paint it on the rubber seal. When you put the two together they stick. It's kind of hard to get it just right becasue once it touches it is permanent. I did it like you do a formica counter top. I put a sheet of plastic betweent the coated gasket and fairing and removed the plastic little by little as I got it stuck in position.
Time will tell how well it holds but this glue is pretty strong. It will hold a rubber seal on the outside of an airplane, that much I know.

Click to expand...

Apologies if this is an ignorant question, but would spraying a light mist of water on the two surfaces (once the glue is tacky dry) help to give you a couple of minutes of adjustment time? This works well when applying 3M adhesive film, so I figured I'd ask.

I don't understand how/why the glue didn't grip to the sheet of plastic even though it wasn't coated with glue...

madmike2 said:

Harald said:

I'm pretty sure he's talking about a different gasket. Where the arms go through the slots in the fairing, there's rubber seals that minimize the amount of junk going into the fairing. If those seals come loose they can cause the retract arms to bind up.

Click to expand...

Aha! 3M weatherstrip adhesive is your friend. But that area is going to be "no fun" to get to.

Click to expand...

And get a can of their 3M cleaner too. The two together work great

JamesK said:

vabrzn said:

I used permatex vinyl sealant at 20,000 miles and the gasket is holding fast at 60,000. It's a pain to get all of the factory sticky stuff off. Clean with rubbing alcohol before applying the permatex.

Click to expand...

Vabrzn, thanks for the info, could you please let me know which one you used, I've looked on the Permatex website but don't seem to find the description you're referring to.

Permatex.com

Click to expand...

I'll check when I get home and let you know

JamesK said:

S76 said:

This was on my list for winter work. My seal was fine, it just wasn't attached to much. I removed the old seal and scraped off the original 2 way tape (that was a stupid way of doing that) and then cleaned the surface with alchohol. I then rebonded the seal using 3M 1357 glue. You paint the glue on the fairing side, then paint it on the rubber seal. When you put the two together they stick. It's kind of hard to get it just right becasue once it touches it is permanent. I did it like you do a formica counter top. I put a sheet of plastic betweent the coated gasket and fairing and removed the plastic little by little as I got it stuck in position.
Time will tell how well it holds but this glue is pretty strong. It will hold a rubber seal on the outside of an airplane, that much I know.

Click to expand...

Apologies if this is an ignorant question, but would spraying a light mist of water on the two surfaces (once the glue is tacky dry) help to give you a couple of minutes of adjustment time? This works well when applying 3M adhesive film, so I figured I'd ask.

I don't understand how/why the glue didn't grip to the sheet of plastic even though it wasn't coated with glue...

Click to expand...

When you paint both surfaces with the glue the glue dries. It doesn't stick to anything until it comes in contact with more of the same glue. So you can use a sheet of plastic between the 2 glued surfaces and it doesn't stick to the plastic. If you want more manuverability you can wipe the glued surfaces with Methyl Ethel Keytone (MEK) before you positon them and they will be slippery for a minute until the MEK dries. This will give you some time to better position the seals. Maybe 3M has another product for that besides using MEK. Not sure. But if you use an activator like MEK you have to hold the thing in place until that section sets up. I don't think water will work on this application but not sure.

JamesK said:

vabrzn said:

I used permatex vinyl sealant at 20,000 miles and the gasket is holding fast at 60,000. It's a pain to get all of the factory sticky stuff off. Clean with rubbing alcohol before applying the permatex.

Click to expand...

Vabrzn, thanks for the info, could you please let me know which one you used, I've looked on the Permatex website but don't seem to find the description you're referring to.

Permatex.com

Click to expand...

Thank you for the pic. I have however, already ordered the 3M 1357 adhesive, that Bob used.