Wind Roar

I have been searching for a reasonable solution. I am experiencing what (to me) is excessive wind noise (background roar). I don't even consider a ride of more than a few minutes at highway speed without earplugs. (I wear earplugs anyway, but quieter ambient noise levels are still preferred) I have read threads on the subject until I am cross-eyed so I thought I might start a new post to see if I can get a direct answer.

Bike - 2007 Seat in higher position

Me - 6'3", 34" inseam

Riding - Solo; rarely with a passenger

Shields - Stock is turbulent and noisy

CeeBailey not particularly turbulent but quite noisy (also whistles at certain speeds); better than stock

VStream, despite the barn door size, is surprisingly noisy

There are many proponents of the Cal-Sci and Rifle but I am not quite ready to make the investment for the sake of another experiment. If I knew that a particular windshield would have the desired outcome for me, I would not hesitate. I would like to explore lower cost options first.

Helmet - I know there can be a tremendous difference between helmets and a change is in the near future, but not part of this discussion.

Someone apparently makes a sort of windshield trim material that is supposed to reduce noise but I hate the look of the stuff. Don't know how well it works.

Laminar lip - not much information on its effectiveness on the Gen II FJR. Not crazy about the look but would consider it if it really works well.

I have been reading about spacers and there is not much concensus on what works (or doesn't work) for the Gen II. There have been a number of discussions/comments about bracket contact with the Tupperware causing damage to the paint.

i) Do the spacers actually work with the Gen II to substantially reduce wind roar?

ii) What thickness to minimize contact - (1/4"?)

Anybody have alternate suggestions? (other than buying a Goldwing)

Ross

I'm 6' with the same bike and with the stocker on the low setting my head is in clean air, so it just sounds surprising that you get buffet at 6'3". Since you're willing to try different things, here's a few thoughts.

Take the windshield totally off and go for a spin. My thought is to begin with your head and shoulders in clean air, then start increasing height. If you get no rattle without a windshield, you'll have a starting point. From there you can start working higher with duct-taped cardboard to see the height your noise starts at.

As two alternatives:

(1) Put your seat on the low setting and try the VStream again. It ought to give you more than an inch of shield coverage. You can crouch to get more coverage yet.

(2) Since the VStream is a barn door, try taping cardboard over it to raise the top edge to nose height so you can still see over it. You can trim down from there.

IMO windscreen nirvana doesn’t really exist, but you can come close.

I have a V-stream and I’m a shorter dude at 5’-11”, you being rather tall will IMO have a harder time finding windscreen nirvana.

Here’s what I did. It did improve a lot, but not perfect. I also have a Rifle Tuning block that I will be experimenting with. My V-Stream hits the fairing in a spot on one side, so...

Good luck.

I know you don't want to try another windshield experiment and I can't blame you there. Let me share my recent experience with a Rifle 3+ 4+. I'm 6'2" with 33 inseam and 200 lbs. I know the Rifle I bought is shorter than recommended but I like to see over the shield not through it. First the shape if the Rifle is much different than any other shield. It is much more concave and aerodynamic compared to other shields. Also, and very important are the angle optimizer blocks that they include with the shield. It basically holds the shield out about another inch or so and tips it back slightly compared to stock. I use a modular Shoei helmet which generates quiet a bit of wind noise. With the stock shield I had to wear earplugs because the high pitch wind noise with the stock shield/helmet combo would drive me crazy and my ears would still ring after a full days ride. I just put the Rifle on so I need more testing time, but OMG the difference in wind noise compared to stock is absolutely amazing. With the shield fully up I just see over the top which is perfect for me. In that position it is almost dead quiet. No wind noise, whistle, buffeting... just still quiet air. I would say at least a 50% reduction in noise and probably more. Now I can actually hear my engine and the nice low rumble of my V&H exhaust. I really can't imagine a windshield preforming any better than this one. And just moving it down a couple inches brings on a nice cool laminar flow without buffeting. I'm really happy. If you have anyone around with a Rifle on their bike, give it a try. One other suggestion, I think there's quite a bit to the angle optimizer blocks. I know some folks run them with other brand windshields and I think Rifle sells them separately. Having more airflow behind the windshield smooths and quiets the air significantly. Maybe try the blocks with one of your current windshields. Or, sell all your windshields on the forum and get a Rifle. I'm a huge fan now.

I'll say this much more... Anything is better than stock. Even a stock WS with spacers etc is mo betta. I'd really like to know from those that have tried the Cal-Sci, Cee-Baily's, V-Stream, and Rifle, which one is best and why.

RossKean said:

Someone apparently makes a sort of windshield trim material that is supposed to reduce noise but I hate the look of the stuff. Don't know how well it works.

Click to expand...

I tried it on my VFR with a Givi shield. Didn't do squat.

RossKean said:

Laminar lip - not much information on its effectiveness on the Gen II FJR. Not crazy about the look but would consider it if it really works well.

Click to expand...

Tried it on a KZ1100 with a barn door shield. Helped reduce turbulence, but did not eliminate it. No noticeable difference in noise.

RossKean said:

i) Do the spacers actually work with the Gen II to substantially reduce wind roar?

ii) What thickness to minimize contact - (1/4"?)

Click to expand...

Yes they work, and I used 5/8 inch nuts. There is some rubbing, but I got over it, as it doesn't affect whether I enjoy riding the bike.\

RossKean said:

Anybody have alternate suggestions? (other than buying a Goldwing)

Ross

Click to expand...

Wear earplugs.

If I read the OP correctly, you already have the solution: Earplugs.

No other band aid will save your hearing better.

Hey Ross! If you're getting rid of any of your shields, I'd love to try one or more.

I LOVE my bike but wind noise IS a problem for me. Bramfrank suggested (as someone here just did) that I remove the windshield and see what that does for reducing wind noise. Since all I know how to do - mechanically - is engage the sidestand ( :blink: ) I haven't tried that.

I wear good earplugs but there's still a lot of wind noise

MEM said:

Hey Ross! If you're getting rid of any of your shields, I'd love to try one or more.

I LOVE my bike but wind noise IS a problem for me. Bramfrank suggested (as someone here just did) that I remove the windshield and see what that does for reducing wind noise. Since all I know how to do - mechanically - is engage the sidestand ( :blink: ) I haven't tried that.

I wear good earplugs but there's still a lot of wind noise

Click to expand...

If you want to try one, no problem. I have the Cee Bailey on it now but I actually have another (slightly damaged) Cee Bailey, a stocker and a Vstream you could try. All of these came with the bike when I bought it last year. Since you are a bit shorter than I am, one of these might work better for you than it does for me. Let me know and we can swap one out for you to try - takes all of ten minutes.

Checkswrecks said:

I'm 6' with the same bike and with the stocker on the low setting my head is in clean air, so it just sounds surprising that you get buffet at 6'3". Since you're willing to try different things, here's a few thoughts.

Take the windshield totally off and go for a spin. My thought is to begin with your head and shoulders in clean air, then start increasing height. If you get no rattle without a windshield, you'll have a starting point. From there you can start working higher with duct-taped cardboard to see the height your noise starts at.

As two alternatives:

(1) Put your seat on the low setting and try the VStream again. It ought to give you more than an inch of shield coverage. You can crouch to get more coverage yet.

(2) Since the VStream is a barn door, try taping cardboard over it to raise the top edge to nose height so you can still see over it. You can trim down from there.

Click to expand...

With the lower seating position, I think my knees and hips might complain a bit. I won't ride without a windshield so i don't think I'll try running without. The noise intensity and "character" change with varying height but it is best (least bad) with the shield all the way up at speed on the highway. I don't have a major issue with buffeting other than when passing a truck or with strong cross winds but the noise is a lot more than I would like. If I crouch well below the top of the shield, noise drops remarkably but this is not a viable riding position for me. I could go with an even taller shield (hangar door rather than barn door), but I think the Vstream already pushes the envelope with respect to appearance and wind resistance; not to mention mechanical strain on the already flimsy windshield mechanism.

I think the key is to manage the airflow, not block it entirely.

Earplugs certainly help and are the only thing that makes it tolerable but I would very much like to deal with the problem directly, if at all possible.

Anyone have any comment on the spacer thickness that will be OK on a Gen II? Do they have a positive effect. I understand that the Gen I will accommodate a thicker spacer.

Ross

I used a stack of washers to make spacers for my 07. They did help some with the stock shield and I've left them installed with the Cee Bailey +2 high, stock width flip shield and the Vstream (my summer and winter shield respectively). The Vstream does hit the plastic on the right side when it's completely lowered and there's wind pressure on the shield. I stuck a clear piece of laminate at the point of contact to stop wear on the black cherry plastic on those occasions when I run with the shield fully lowered (which is not that often).

I couldn't remember how thick my spacer stack was, so I just went outside and measured. Converted to that odd Canadian measurement system , the washer stack is 7mm thick. A thicker stack will cause part of the arm mechanism to drag on the fairing. I also chose to get longer screws because the factory screw had minimal thread engagement with the washer stack installed. I also used super glue to keep the washers together for easier installation.

I'm not sure which Cee Bailey shield you have, but I'm told the reverse flip makes all the difference. My +2 one has the flip and it works well in conjunction with the spacers to smooth airflow. Because Cee Bailey makes so many size (height and width) and flip combinations, it's important to note what configuration you have for accurate comparision.

I know you don't want to talk about helmets, but they are an important consideration. My old Shoei RF900 was MUCH quieter with my shield than the new Nolan N103 flip-up helmet. I've had to resort to earplugs to save my hearing because I don't want to give up the benefits of the flip-up helmet.

Harald said:

I used a stack of washers to make spacers for my 07. They did help some with the stock shield and I've left them installed with the Cee Bailey +2 high, stock width flip shield and the Vstream (my summer and winter shield respectively). The Vstream does hit the plastic on the right side when it's completely lowered and there's wind pressure on the shield. I stuck a clear piece of laminate at the point of contact to stop wear on the black cherry plastic on those occasions when I run with the shield fully lowered (which is not that often).

I couldn't remember how thick my spacer stack was, so I just went outside and measured. Converted to that odd Canadian measurement system , the washer stack is 7mm thick. A thicker stack will cause part of the arm mechanism to drag on the fairing. I also chose to get longer screws because the factory screw had minimal thread engagement with the washer stack installed. I also used super glue to keep the washers together for easier installation.

I'm not sure which Cee Bailey shield you have, but I'm told the reverse flip makes all the difference. My +2 one has the flip and it works well in conjunction with the spacers to smooth airflow. Because Cee Bailey makes so many size (height and width) and flip combinations, it's important to note what configuration you have for accurate comparision.

I know you don't want to talk about helmets, but they are an important consideration. My old Shoei RF900 was MUCH quieter with my shield than the new Nolan N103 flip-up helmet. I've had to resort to earplugs to save my hearing because I don't want to give up the benefits of the flip-up helmet.

Click to expand...

I'm not even sure which Cee Bailey I have - came with the bike. Maybe I'll try a 7mm or 1/4" spacer and see if that does any good. I emailed Rifle to see if they would sell their tuning blocks separately but I strongly suspect they won't. The helmet is being replaced this year and I will pay attention to the reviews before I make my choice. Will be a solid full-faced rather than a flip.

Ross

FJRBluesman said:

IMO windscreen nirvana doesn’t really exist, but you can come close.

I have a V-stream and I’m a shorter dude at 5’-11”, you being rather tall will IMO have a harder time finding windscreen nirvana.

Here’s what I did. It did improve a lot, but not perfect. I also have a Rifle Tuning block that I will be experimenting with. My V-Stream hits the fairing in a spot on one side, so...

Good luck.

Click to expand...

my v stream did not hit the fairing with the rifle tuning block. My stock did, but I put a washer under the top windscreen bolts and it gave it the 1/8" clearance it needed. Solved.

carlson_mn said:

FJRBluesman said:

IMO windscreen nirvana doesn’t really exist, but you can come close.

I have a V-stream and I’m a shorter dude at 5’-11”, you being rather tall will IMO have a harder time finding windscreen nirvana.

Here’s what I did. It did improve a lot, but not perfect. I also have a Rifle Tuning block that I will be experimenting with. My V-Stream hits the fairing in a spot on one side, so...

Good luck.

Click to expand...

my v stream did not hit the fairing with the rifle tuning block. My stock did, but I put a washer under the top windscreen bolts and it gave it the 1/8" clearance it needed. Solved.

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the info, I'll give that a shot.

[

Laminar lip - not much information on its effectiveness on the Gen II FJR. Not crazy about the look but would consider it if it really works well.

Ross

Hey Ross! I'm no were near your size. I'm only 5'5" with a 28" inseam so I'm long bodied and short legs so my results would be different than yours but this is my findings. The very first thing I tried (due to cost) was the Laminar lip on my stock shield. I was very happy with the function of it. When in the full down position the air was very smooth coming at me. When in the full up it was very quiet and even made a difference for my wife. Then I tried a CB 2 inch taller with flip and that was the worse shield I tried it was very turbulent. Now I only tried some of these other shields because like you I thought the Lip looked kind of funny. So I figured if I could find a shield that worked for me like the lip but without the funny look I would take it. I also tried a CB tinted shield that was stock shape but 2" inches taller. I also have a VStream which I like for a cold weather shield because it works almost as good as my lip combo but with more weather protection in the cold temps. So I run two different combo's the VStream in the cold months and a dark smoke CB shield stock size with a smoke laminar lip in the summer. Because in the full down position I get a smooth air stream at me (CB shield/laminar lip)and in the full up position I get a quiet ride with no air on me. But like alot of others have mentioned your Helmet makes a big difference also. with all these windshield combo's I have used a shoei TZR,RF1000,HJC Symax, and a shoei multitec. The first two helmets were the noisest of them all. The hjc was quietier then the first two and the when I got the multitec it was the quietiest of them all. But then when I open the vents on the helmet the windnoise is much louder than when the vents are closed. So in closing there are alot of variables to consider when trying to get smooth air or quietness behind the windshield of your FJR. Just my 2cents worth. Here is a pic with my summer combo

If I was a half foot shorter, I don't think I would be having any issues (at least not with wind noise). :lol: I already have a significant investment in windshields so I think I'll try the cheapest route possible with a 1/4" spacer. If that doesn't help and I can't get the Rifle"tuning block", I might end out going for the Rifle shield since it seems to have the most positive recommendations. I know Rifle has a money back guarantee but cross-border purchasing and returning is a pain in the ***. I wish someone around here had one I could try; its a lot of money for a piece of plastic.

Ross

Hey Ross,

You already know that my B4 is a 1st gen, so what I say is not completely applicable to your 2nd gen aeros, but I think that some of the generalities will cross generations.

The number one absolute best way to take care of the wind noise is to wear the best attenuating, best fitting earplugs you can find. I have found only two different models that will work for me, and literally dozens of other that do not. This may be partly due to the fact that I have large ear canals, especially the left one, and most of the foam earplugs on the market do not properly seal my big holes. Getting a really good seal is ultra important. If I insert even my preferred earplugs and don't get a 100% seal it bothers my ears to ride on the highway.

The two plugs that I can use are Howard Leight Max or the EarSoft Grippers. The latter are hard to find uncorded. The former are easy to find and will also work for people with smaller ear canals, you just don't need to insert them in as deep. In order for me to comfortably get them deep enough to give me a good seal I need to cut the tip ends off (about 5mm) with a pair of scissors, in advance. I also moisten the earplugs just before insertion which seems to help with the sealing.

I am about the same size as you (vertically anyway ). The only way that I have found to the get the airflow completely over your head is to use a windscreen that is so tall that you have to look through it. I don't like doing that.

The next least noisy situation for me is getting a smooth stream of air off the top of the windshield that does not go below the lower edge of my helmet, and to leave the face shield on my helmet closed. I found that I can do that by using a Rifle tuning block to space the shield out and tip it back, which allows air to travel up the back side of the shield and lessens the turbulence off the top. I found that I can smooth that turbulence even further by mounting a laminar lip onto whichever shield I am using with the tuning block.

The shield that I was running on the chowder run was the Rifle "Sport" model which is only +2 over stock. That shield is considerably wider than stock and gives great rain protection (why I had it on then). But a bigger shield like that can be too hot in the warm months, especially for the 1st gens. So the shield I have on it now is the Ahamay Touring shield, which coincidentally is also 2" taller than stock, but unlike the flat vertical profile of the rifle, has a concave shape like the stock shield does.

So the executive version of this is that either the Ahamay or Rifle Sport when used with a tuning block and Laminar Lip will give you a smooth airflow that can be adjusted to hit you mid face-shield and is the quietest combination I can find on the highway.

Going with no shield at all, a cut down / short shield or the stock shield with tuning block and tipped back to the lowest position will put your head into smooth air, which is quiet when riding on back roads, and provides welcome coolness in summer heat. I will sometimes go with the last setup, too. But in the ever turbulent air of the interstate, that is not quite as quiet as the two combos mentioned above.

Hope that helps. Happy hunting.

Rifle does sell the tuning blocks seperately, at least they did last season. But their pricey lil ******* though!

I've run the stock shield (looks great! but that is all that can be said for it) and a CalSci Medium. The CalSci went from a 7 out of 10 on my highly scientific subjective scale. I was happy with it. I bought the Tuning block and gave it a whirl on the CalSci. Near perfect! In the down position I get lots of smooth airflow which hits me just below my shoulders. In the up position I'm looking over the top about 2" (before the block I'd be looking through it) with the airflow 'just' touching the top of my helmet.

The only downside to this combo, in my config and size, is that in the down position, my hand-guards make contact with the windshield at full lock.

Bungie

I have emailed Rifle to see if they will sell the block - no response yet. If they are asking a stupid amount of $$ for the block, I'll try the spacers and see if I am on the right track.

Fred

+1 on the earplugs. I rarely ride any distance without them

The only time I like to be below the top of the shield is in a heavy rain. A taller shield is not the solution but better aerodynamic management is needed.

While it might be nice to have the "Get Smart Cone of Silence" at certain times, you will pay for it when riding in the heat and humidity. Smooth airflow is the key and as others have mentioned, the choice of helmets may be as important as the choice of windshields.

And so I continue the neverending quest...