Starcom PTT-03

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HaulinAshe

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I love what the Starcom PTT-03 (Push-To-Talk with VOX disable) switch does for the unit's functionality. I hate the physical dimensions and Gawdawful cable it comes with.

Starcom obviously starts with a standard S-Video cable, whacks off one end and then wires it to their little box that contains the monster push-button switch and resistor. The whole thing is just... BIG, and if you have the comm unit mounted up front somewhere, the cable is WAY too long and bulky.

Since no alternative is available from Starcom, I decided to reverse engineer the thing and make something more to my liking. Thought somebody else might want to do the same. What I found was that the PTT uses a MiniDIN-4 connector (S-video style) to attach to the comm unit. Two pins are for the N.O. (normally-open) push-button switch and two pins are for the resistor that disables the VOX function. A little VOM meter reading and here's the results:

Pins 1 & 2 - N.O. Push-button switch

Pins 3 & 4 - 1k ohm resistor ***EDIT-New resistor value based on Fred_W research.

With my previous Chatterbox comm unit, I had removed the PTT switch from its wrist band and mounted it to the clutch-side grip assembly using some black RTV Silicone adhesive. It's a nice little switch unit. I decided to adapt it to the Starcomm. You shouldn't have much trouble adapting something similar of your liking.

All you need is an S-video cable with one end connected to your switch of choice. Pins 1-2 go to the switch. You can either wire Pins 3-4 to a small (1/8 or 1/4 watt) resistor at the switch end, or if making your own cable (using wire and a replacement connector), you can wire the resistor directly to the connector pins on the comm unit end of things.

Here's a link to the Chatterbox PTT switch that I used. $14 for the switch and about $7 in parts from Radio Shack will do the job.

Chatterbox PTT replacement switch at RideGear.com

Radio Shack did not have a 2.7k ohm resistor, so I elected to use a 2.2k and two(2) 220 ohm resistors all wired in series. I simply opened up the Chatterbox switch, drilled some extra holes in the pc board to make places to thread the resistor leads, and soldered the whole thing up on that end.

The PTT function is now much more ergonomically appealing and there is no mass of bundled wire to deal with. Me likey a lot!!!

MiniDIN-4 connector plugged into Starcomm at left. Modified Chatterbox PTT at right.

StarcommPTT.jpg


MiniDIN-4 pin diagram.

MiniDIN-4.jpg


 
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I did something very similar on my Bandit when I had a PTT switch. Here's a picture. The switch is a momentary rocker.

PTT.jpg


 
Thanks for the writeup and pin-outs Jeff. Just might come in handy for me.

Ponyfool - Are my eyes deceiving me? It looks like you had a ready-made place for that rocker switch.

Nice!

 
I did something very similar on my Bandit when I had a PTT switch. Here's a picture. The switch is a momentary rocker.
PTT.jpg

Pony,

Could you re-host your pictures (they are gone). I'm interested in doing this mod soon and welcome any new ideas for switch placement.

Thanks, mang!

 
I did something very similar on my Bandit when I had a PTT switch. Here's a picture. The switch is a momentary rocker.
PTT.jpg

Pony,

Could you re-host your pictures (they are gone). I'm interested in doing this mod soon and welcome any new ideas for switch placement.

Thanks, mang!
Fred

I can do one better...

DSC00066.jpg


What you are looking at is a flash to pass switch from the 2008 Kawasaki Concours. This is now a push to talk switch for my Starcom Digital system. I obtained it from a salvage yard in Sacramento earlier this year. Yamaha and Kawasaki both use the same exact left hand switch pod. The wire connector is slightly different but that does not matter, the switch is a direct screw in replacement for the cover on the back side of your switch pod.

Hope it helps :)

Brodie

 
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What you are looking at is a flash to pass switch from the 2008 Kawasaki Concours. This is now a push to talk switch for my Starcom Digital system. I obtained it from a salvage yard in Sacramento earlier this year. Yamaha and Kawasaki both use the same exact left hand switch pod. The wire connector is slightly different but that does not matter, the switch is a direct screw in replacement for the cover on the back side of your switch pod.
Hope it helps :)

Brodie

Neato!! Now I just need to check to make sure the 1st gen and 2nd gens have the same left side switch assembly.

 
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What you are looking at is a flash to pass switch from the 2008 Kawasaki Concours. This is now a push to talk switch for my Starcom Digital system. I obtained it from a salvage yard in Sacramento earlier this year. Yamaha and Kawasaki both use the same exact left hand switch pod. The wire connector is slightly different but that does not matter, the switch is a direct screw in replacement for the cover on the back side of your switch pod.
Hope it helps :)

Brodie

Neato!! Now I just need to check to make sure the 1st gen and 2nd gens have the same left side switch assembly.
They not only do, but the Euro headlight flasher switch is common to some of the Euro bikes.

 
DSC00066.jpg

What you are looking at is a flash to pass switch from the 2008 Kawasaki Concours. This is now a push to talk switch for my Starcom Digital system. I obtained it from a salvage yard in Sacramento earlier this year. Yamaha and Kawasaki both use the same exact left hand switch pod. The wire connector is slightly different but that does not matter, the switch is a direct screw in replacement for the cover on the back side of your switch pod.

Hope it helps :)

Brodie
That is WAY clean. Gotta do that...

 
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