Crash proven frame sliders, talk to me.

I'd like to hear from those Gen1 crash club types that HAVE frame sliders and actually crashed/dropped the bike with them and how the bike and frame slider faired (did the slider break and really do nothing etc). I'm particularly interested in the T-Rex and Motovation NO CUT styles.

I've heard many people say what sliders they have and what they like, but I want to know which ones held up better in a crash. I've done a bunch of searches for the NO CUT style sliders and many are hearsay stories.

I'm ready to buy some and I want to know if the $90 T-rex style is just as good as the $190 Motovation style. Both claim to have metal inserts in the slider material (per T-Rex E-mail). Is the Motovation really worth the extra $100?

I have Moko's, which are no longer made. Motovation replaced them.

They work! I have Skyway mushrooms on my Moko brackets. 15-20 mph low side when front end washed out on some spilled water during a left turn in a turn lane. The bracket bent slightly, but I was able to straighten it out. L. mirror broken, L driving light "toast", left bag rashed, slight damage to engine armor on the alternator cover. No fairing, tank or seat damage.

My sliders are listed on the invoice as "BO Acc Tip Over Guards." They cost $29.95 in 2004 from Sunnyside M/C Co. in Sunnyside, Washington. They have served well. In a v. gentle drop, there was NO damage, except a bit of marring of the slider itself on the left side, even though the bag was in place and might have been scratched. A year later, on the right side, in a rather embarrassing involuntary dismount resulting from my getting tangled up in a storm drain while attempting a U-turn in a narrow alley, there were some serious scratches to the fender and the bag but no other damage. I rode home, mirror OK, everything OK except my pride.

I just put on a set of T-rex sliders. The bolts supplied with the kit don't fit as the shoulders are too long which means extra washers are needed but that creates a clearance problem on the right side. Nothing too bad, I just feel the neeed to afix a piece of aluminium flashing to the inside of the faring so vibration doesn't rub a hole through it. Also the actual sliders are NOT long enough in my opinion. They just barely stick out past the fairing. New pucks are cheap enough and easy enough to find, but they will need to be cut to clear the fairing.

So lets say for 125 you can turn the T-Rex sliders into what you thought you were getting for 90.

Also, after reading some other people's issues with bracket style sliders, I would take an extra day, by a roll of aluminium flashing and some felt or rubber and build up the back side of the bracket so the area behind the puck makes contact with the frame. That way the frame will be absorbing the hit instead of the engine mounting bolts.

Moko's. Deep gravel slide. Of little use in this scenario.

Ramblin Man said:

I just put on a set of T-rex sliders. The bolts supplied with the kit don't fit as the shoulders are too long which means extra washers are needed but that creates a clearance problem on the right side. Nothing too bad, I just feel the neeed to afix a piece of aluminium flashing to the inside of the faring so vibration doesn't rub a hole through it. Also the actual sliders are NOT long enough in my opinion. They just barely stick out past the fairing. New pucks are cheap enough and easy enough to find, but they will need to be cut to clear the fairing.

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Does T-Rex make a variety of FJR Sliders? Mine stick way the hell out there. In fact, after bolting them up, I thought that they could double as highway pegs (where they are positiioned it doesn't work). I also never had an issue with the install (i.e. bolting up, vibration, fairing issues). I just installed them per the instructions... no problems.

Staying on topic though, fortunately I've never had to test the T-Rex slider for their intended purpose. I was planning on posting a couple of pictures of my bike, when I do, ypu can decide on the asthetics of the T-Rex.

I know you specifically asked about no-drill, but I'll put in my .02 for the R&G sliders, through the fairing into the engine mount bolt. Metal sleeve inside the slider, high-grade bolt. I've been down twice on the left side.

First time the bolt bent, but it went off the road into the gravel shoulder, so all bets are off there. Lower fairing had very little damage, upper fairing was torn through.



Last time it worked perfectly, very small stator cover scratch, no fairing damage, torn boot on the mirror base, rashed side bag.



Normal appearance. Not an eyesore by any means, and the hole is not hard to do.

I also have moko's, and they were very helpful, both times....

What I like about the moko is the mount. They are a nice mounting bracket, that is very sturday and won't bend or break. The sliders took the impact, and ground down. Bought some replacement derlin sliders from skyway, good to go.

I don't know if the motivation sliders use the same type of mounting bracket as the Moko's, but if they do, I'd go with that.

I have R & G's -- low sided on blacktop a few years ago - looked similar to Woofoo's middle pic above. Certainly saved the fairing from loads of damage.

Just found this



As you can see, it sacrificed itself.

Another R&G crasher here. I don't have pics but I can say that I did a low speed high side on the right side. I was doing 15 or so at the most. The slider bent & shaved off & I had little damage to the main fairing. Would've been way different w/o any doubt.

Keep in mind that the main purpose of all sliders is to prevent damage to the frame in a crash. The design is not to protect your tupperware. It just happens to be a nice perk. If the bolts are made right, the steel bolts are made with a steel that is not brittle. They are supposed to bend as opposed to breaking & the inside of an R&G has a sleeve that is made to absorb a large amount of the impact.

Heidi

luvtoride said:

Another R&G crasher here. I don't have pics but I can say that I did a low speed high side on the right side. I was doing 15 or so at the most. The slider bent & shaved off & I had little damage to the main fairing. Would've been way different w/o any doubt.
Keep in mind that the main purpose of all sliders is to prevent damage to the frame in a crash. The design is not to protect your tupperware. It just happens to be a nice perk. If the bolts are made right, the steel bolts are made with a steel that is not brittle. They are supposed to bend as opposed to breaking & the inside of an R&G has a sleeve that is made to absorb a large amount of the impact.

Heidi

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+1 R&G

Another satisfied R&G slider user here. If the bike's front-end hadn't crossed into the oncoming traffic, it would have been a ride-away with cosmetic damage only rather than a write-off.

Down and out for the count.

graytaz - OUCH!! Glad you're OK, that looks rather nasty. A total loss??

Crashed twice with R&G. Bent the shift out of them and totaled the bike both times. Rather than getting sliders again I think I'll avoid crashing. The T-Rex bracket isn't as nicely finished as the Motovation, but it's not very visible when it's on the bike.

i have the r and g the only damage was scratches on the mirror with no bags on .

30 MPH low-sider. The RH Motovation slider slowed the bike down in its sideways motion and all that got damaged was some tupperware and a mirror.

In the process, the steel bolt twisted and nearly snapped, while the aluminum bracket got warped but the bike's frame was intact.

(If my foot hadn't been crushed in the bargain I'd have made it back home that time... )





In spite of my forum handle, I'm not related to the T-Rex company . It seems to me their aluminum bracket is thinner than the Motovation one.

I would prefer the Motovation product (which BTW is virtually identical to the more pricey MOKO).

Stef

teerex51 said:

30 MPH low-sider. The RH Motovation slider slowed the bike down in its sideways motion and all that got damaged was some tupperware and a mirror. In the process, the steel bolt twisted and nearly snapped, while the aluminum bracket got warped but the bike's frame was intact.

In spite of my forum handle, I'm not related to the T-Rex company . It seems to me their aluminum bracket is thinner than the Motovation one.

I would prefer the Motovation product (which BTW is virtually identical to the more pricey MOKO).

Stef

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Stef WOW! Glad you're OK, looks like everything did what it should. Great info, thanks.

The bracket on the T-Rex is Stainless Steel not aluminum like the Motovation, not sure if that's really any better though.

From what I hear bluesman, all ya need are TOGs as ya don't ride fast enough to crash.

Hell ya still run training wheels why ya need 'em anyways???

:jester: