Autopsy of my ignition switch (incl pictures)

Following Daily Commuter's post about taking apart an ignition switch, I decided to do the same since Yamaha Customer Service told me to pound sand.

I removed the triple tree, and, like Daily Commuter, decided to leave the ignition switch in place. Since I ended up cutting my wires on the road side instead of being stranded in SE Colorado, I don't believe I'll be able to repair mine because it doesn't appear the wires are long enough.

But, mine is clearly a solder issue, like so many others. Here's what happened to mine:

CLICK IMAGES TO ENLARGE

Triple tree with ignition plate drilled:



Lower ignition plate removed:



Contacts removed:



Wires removed (not the red wire):



Close up of ignition wires:



Red wire has separated:



Back side of red wire solder:



Now I have to figure out how I am going to proceed. On principle, I want to wait for Yamaha to get off their *** and issue a TSB so I can have it fixed for free. However, having my bike hot wired allowing for anyone to walk up and hit the switch I have installed so they can ride off on my bike isn't really an option either.

If I buy the new ignition switch, I'll have to also pay to have it re-keyed and Yamaha has told me outright that if I fix it on my own and a recall is issued, they will NOT cover the costs (and I think that is absolute bullsh*t).

I think with more and more ignitions being documented as failing in this way, they really need to step up and fix this issue. I was one of the lucky ones, mine died in a gas station. Someone is going to get hurt or killed due to instantaneous power failure and it's going to be Yamaha's fault.

ponyfool said:

I think with more and more ignitions being documented as failing in this way, they really need to step up and fix this issue. I was one of the lucky ones, mine died in a gas station. Someone is going to get hurt or killed due to instantaneous power failure and it's going to be Yamaha's fault.

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So, beating the drum, everyone whose had this experience in the US has reported it to NHTSA, right? Gotta do it if you haven't. It appears Yamaha is waiting for NHTSA to force them into a recall.

El Toro said:

ponyfool said:

I think with more and more ignitions being documented as failing in this way, they really need to step up and fix this issue. I was one of the lucky ones, mine died in a gas station. Someone is going to get hurt or killed due to instantaneous power failure and it's going to be Yamaha's fault.

Click to expand...

So, beating the drum, everyone whose had this experience in the US has reported it to NHTSA, right? Gotta do it if you haven't. It appears Yamaha is waiting for NHTSA to force them into a recall.

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Done already.

My NHTSA complaint is lodged.

PonyFool, this picture is EXACTLY what happened to me too.

Good stuff, Scott. With those pics, it's really easy to see the problem. Before long, you're going to be the go-to guy who's had every part of his bike apart and rebuilt it -- even if you didn't really want to gain all that first hand expertise.

Am I correct in surmising that there's repetitive mechanical stress (e.g., from the wires being pulled) that causes that solder joint to fail? I recently read that Suzuki has issued a recall on '08 Busas resulting from an improper routing of ignition switch wiring that could result in apparently similar failures.** It'd be nice if Yamaha would step up and address this too frequently occurring problem.

BTW -- nice demo of forum respect lessons learned for our forum pigs -- we'll be nice to you as long as you're offering help with pics, but by Gawd, don't be ASKIN' for help or no respect for you!

** See "Recall Roster" at p.108 of September Cycle World -- NHTSA Recall No. 08V249000 (9109 units affected)

Recall or not, this is absolutely a DEFECT and not the result of wear or abuse.

As such, if your bike has Y.E.S. or is under the orignial warranty they should be fixing it. If you are past warranty, then unless they have a formal recall, anything that they do is gratuitous/goodwill.

As noted in a previous thread, I feel that the root cause is heat. You can see heat discoloration in the copper contacts and on the sleeve of the red wire. The solder left in the cup on the black plastic part has reflowed into a smooth dome, whereas the wire itself lets you see the wire strands through the solder surface. Pulling forces on the wire bundle would ensure that the wires would be tugged out of place if the solder were to melt.

In some other failed switches the white block that the main contacts are attached to has gotten so hot that it has distorted enough to prevent the switch contact(s) from making electrical connection with the mating half of the switch in the black plastic part.

Good job Pony!!!

I have seen many postings about this issue on the 06 bikes but has anyone found this issue on the 07s yet?

Am I correct in surmising that there's repetitive mechanical stress (e.g., from the wires being pulled) that causes that solder joint to fail?

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No, I don't think mine had anything to do with mechanical pulling (ie: tight wires). When I pulled the ignition apart, the red wire was directly above the solder joint. In other words, it wasn't pulled out of position.

Now, I don't profess to know what the hell I'm talking about when it comes to solder joints, but I believe folks like ionbeam and SockMonkey (I've talked to him by phone) are on the correct path when they discuss cold solder issues, and excess heat being the underlying issue.

In other words, if the solder connection would have been properly made, I don't believe the amount of pulling of the wires that the FJR puts them through would have caused the failure.

I have seen many postings about this issue on the 06 bikes but has anyone found this issue on the 07s yet?

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I believe this has affected a few 07s, but don't hold me to it.

bramfrank said:

Recall or not, this is absolutely a DEFECT and not the result of wear or abuse.
As such, if your bike has Y.E.S. or is under the orignial warranty they should be fixing it. If you are past warranty, then unless they have a formal recall, anything that they do is gratuitous/goodwill.

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I agree, but sadly, I am out of warranty. And since a recall hasn't been issued, and I need a fix now, I'm **** out of luck as far as getting any type of assistance from Yamaha.

Excellent pictures and documentation Scott. I filed the paperwork with the NHTSA shortly after mine **** the bed. Hopefully it doesn't take action from them to get Yamaha to admit its a serious problem and correct it. After seeing other's have second failures on switches my confidence that it won't happen again has gone completely out the window....something I think about every time there is a semi bearing down on me from behind.

I guess I should just make a jumper wire with alligator clips for mine for WHEN it breaks.

Make 2 while you are at it please.

RoadGlide said:

I guess I should just make a jumper wire with alligator clips for mine for WHEN it breaks.

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Solder job complete. There was just enough slack in the wires under the tank to allow me to use the stock wires. If/when it happens again, I'll have to replace the switch. By then, hopefully Yamaha will have stepped up to the plate!

I went to Ponyfool's house today. His bike was in a thousand pieces. Again. Some mom (yes, we'll leave it at that) from across the street was standing there watching. I'm starting to think Scott gets off...on his bike being strewn about the garage...

FJR_pig said:

Some mom (yes, we'll leave it at that)

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LMAO!! You can finish the sentence with "ilf", she doesn't know you. Just cuz your neighbor doesn't look like that....

FJR_pig said:

I went to Ponyfool's house today. His bike was in a thousand pieces. Again. Some mom (yes, we'll leave it at that) from across the street was standing there watching. I'm starting to think Scott gets off...on his bike being strewn about the garage...

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TMI :lol:

Tom

If the current through the switch is actually softening the tin lead solder, wicking off the old solder and re-soldering with lead free solder would buy you a little more margin temperature wise, as it melts at a higher temp.

Zorlac said:

If the current through the switch is actually softening the tin lead solder, wicking off the old solder and re-soldering with lead free solder would buy you a little more margin temperature wise, as it melts at a higher temp.

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That's exactly what I did