Audiovox Cruise Control Install Questions

I'm about to get started installing an Audiovox cruise control on my 2008 FJR A and need clarification on some details even after all my searching.

Here is my primary source of info that I will use to guide my installation: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=16440

1) I remember there being quite a big deal about some cruise units not working properly. I also remember reading that the final solution was to change the position of one of the dip switches on the servo unit. I cannot find this info now. Can anyone confirm the the correct dip switch settings?

2) I like the location that Smitty discovered for placing the servo unit on AE models: under the gas tank and behind the coolant pipe (https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=14483). Is there anything important I should know about installing in this location? Is there any negative side to this other than the extra time spent installing (I've got all winter, and my bike is already completely stripped down for farkling!). From Smitty's pictures, I don't see how the servo unit is secured in place. Is it secured at all?

3) Has there been a final answer to the debate of whether to connect to the vacuum from just one cylinder or from all 4, or is that NERPT material?

4) Any important info that is more current than the referenced threads or was not mentioned in the referenced threads would be greatly appreciated.

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UPDATE: The answers I have gathered are listed below.

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1) Set the 7 dip switches inside the servo unit as follows:

1. on
2. off
3. off
4. on
5. off
6. off
7. off (It used to be recommended on, but the switch to off fixed problems)

Whether you tap into the wire for the RPM signal at the coil end or at the ECU end doesn't seem to matter. Also, don't forget to remove the little black jumper to tell the servo that it's working with a manual transmission. Read the whole story here.

2) No known problems with installing the servo behind the coolant pipe; just a little extra work (be careful not to lose/damage the o-rings for the coolant pipe). No need to secure the servo because it's tight in there anyway.

3) NERPT! Do as you please and be prepared to make changes if you aren't happy with its operation. I'll be tapping into all 4 cylinders with a check valve on each one. I like the symmetry of it for more balance and continuous vacuum.

4)

• Remove as much slack in the servo cable as you can and set the throttle cable slack per FSM, erring to the short side of the adjustment.
• Be sure to water proof the button switch pad if you do a typical install.

I can answer 2 of these:

1) Courtesy of rfulcher

3) NEPRT. The engineers will explain why you should, others will explain how they didn't and it worked just fine. I did all four FWIW.

1) As V65 link will show, set DIP switch #7 to off. Time has shown this is a> safe to do and b> it works.

3) If you don't have enough vacuum ports tapped or if your vacuum reservoir (if used) is too small your cruise control operation will let you know. If you use one tap and no reservoir and you like the way the cruise works, then fine. If you live or ride in hilly areas you will find that your cruise will work better with at least a reservoir and more than one vacuum source tapped. While nothing will be harmed with too little vacuum capacity, you will notice operational issues. Things you may experience are slow response to achieve set speed, or after pressing the 'set speed' button the speed will sag before slowly coming back up to set speed, and/or speed sagging when under load or climbing hills/mountains.

5) remove as much slack in the servo cable as you can and set the throttle cable slack per FSM, erring to the short side of the adjustment

6) be sure to water proof the button switch pad if you do a typical install

7) wonder why the heck you didn't do this a long time ago :lol:

Thanks for the replies

1) I read the thread about dip switch #7. The thread initially indicates that the tach signal needs to be tapped into at the ECU rather than the ignition coil. Later in the thread, others verify that they left the wire attached to the coil without shortening it, only switched dip switch #7, and the problem was solved. Looks like the wiring point is unimportant; just attach to the point that is closest to the servo for convenience.

Now I just need some feedback on 2) - the placement of the servo under the tank. At that time, I will consolidate all the answers into the original post for future searchers to find easily.

I'll respond to #2. After considering all of the alternative placements I installed mine above the engine as suggested by Smitty. Removing and replacing the coolant pipe was a little inconvenient, but like you I had plenty of time. The servo just sits on top of the engine and is not anchored. When everything is buttoned up it really has very little room to move about. Heat doesn't seam to be a problem as cool air enters through openings in the frame. These same openings allow easy routing of the wires to the control pad. Position the servo with the cable exiting to the right and the excess just coils on top of the engine.

IMO, the greatest benefit to installing the servo in this location is it frees up valuable space elsewhere. For example, I have a flat fix kit and compressor under the riders seat where many have installed their servo. To me, it was well worth the extra effort.

Oh, and for vacuum, I used three "Y" fittings and some vacuum hose to tap into all four ports. Be sure to use check valves.

Operation works well enough for me on all but the steepest hills. It's not a problem on interstate-like roads where the CC gets used the most.

And finally, some advice: proceed slowly and deliberately, take your time and don't take short-cuts, use what's appropriate and don't improvise. If you can do a better install with a bolt or connector you don't have, stop until you get it. You do after all, have all winter. Allow yourself 8 to 12 hours total to complete the install and yes, neatness counts.

SLK50 said:

...and yes, neatness counts.

Click to expand...

Crap! Am I being graded on this?

SLK50 said:

If you can do a better install with a bolt or connector you don't have, stop until you get it.

Click to expand...

This is the part that really sucks. I can often picture in my mind exactly what parts I need, and I know they exist, but I can never find them. Auto shops and Radio Shack are a great disappointment every time I go looking for supplies there. I have a local hardware shop to try next, then I'll have to search for a dedicated electronics supply shop to get some of the connectors and wire loom type stuff that I want.

UselessPickles said:

This is the part that really sucks. I can often picture in my mind exactly what parts I need, and I know they exist, but I can never find them. Auto shops and Radio Shack are a great disappointment every time I go looking for supplies there. I have a local hardware shop to try next, then I'll have to search for a dedicated electronics supply shop to get some of the connectors and wire loom type stuff that I want.

Click to expand...

Shop online. Google for the parts you need. There are dozens of companies catering to minimal sales of small parts delivered to your door in a day or two. Beats driving around searching only to be disappointed or frustrated.

UselessPickles said:

I can often picture in my mind exactly what parts I need, and I know they exist, but I can never find them.

Click to expand...

Consider yourself lucky.

If you had the tools and skills to actually make the parts you picture in your mind, you might not get anything done. :dribble:

You'll only be graded if you ask to be. Consider posting details asking to be graded.

Since you live in Michigan and you have some down time ahead of you, you might want to consider V65's install location.

Joe2Lmaker said:

Since you live in Michigan and you have some down time ahead of you, you might want to consider V65's install location.

Click to expand...

And if you really want to make your winter complete run the wiring through the frame and make your own switch pad ala Brundog.

Just check my signature before you proceed!

I did my install using V65's method and it worked out great! Having the servo unit behind the tranny (and in front of the rear shock) makes it look like a stock unit. Others are amazed that it isn't a Yamaha option when they see where it is - PLUS, when the DIP Switch "fix" was announced it was soooo easy to take the access cover off and flip that switch (although I wasn't experiencing any surges at that point). The only tool needed was a Phillips screwdriver and nothing had to be removed to get at these switches.

I used the same type of "gasoline filter" meant for a Dodge Pickup for the vac. res. and put it under the gas tank only using ONE vac. line off of the #1 cylinder.

Made my own mount for the switch out of stainless steel (basically an "L" bracket with a hole drilled in the back) which bolts onto the spare bolt hole near the clutch resevoir - you can't really even see the wires that are hidden between the bracket and handlebars then follow the other wiring down to the gas tank. It's in a great spot for the Left Thumb to operate the unit with ease.

The unit works flawlessly and doesn't take up any valuable storage space - PURRRFECT!!! (especially for under $100) :yahoo:

v65 said:

Joe2Lmaker said:

Since you live in Michigan and you have some down time ahead of you, you might want to consider V65's install location.

Click to expand...

And if you really want to make your winter complete run the wiring through the frame and make your own switch pad ala Brundog.

Just check my signature before you proceed!

Click to expand...

The only part of that installation location that I don't like is this:



And I think it would be less work to put it under the gas tank. I think I'll put it under the gas tank so it's completely hidden. I can't think of anything else I'd want to put there. I've seen some people mention that they have HID ballasts under the tank in that location, but with the newer slim ballasts, I think other mounting locations become available for the ballasts.

So, v65, you said "I have other reasons for not wanting to mount it on top of the engine as has been done on the AE's" in that thread. Could you tell us what those reasons were?

UselessPickles said:

So, v65, you said "I have other reasons for not wanting to mount it on top of the engine as has been done on the AE's" in that thread. Could you tell us what those reasons were?

Click to expand...

Crap, now I have to be serious.

1) At the time of my install there was a lot of debate about how the heat was going to effect the units. I was afraid there might be some longevity issues mounting the unit right next to the engine, time has dispelled those concerns.

2) It wasn't clear to me what the CC unit would do to the airflow under the tank. Many argued that it wasn't an issue, again they appear to be correct.

3) The other reasons are more personal. For whatever reason I like to have a clean engine bay. I doubt others would see it as an issue, but since I have all winter to work on it I wanted an install that would have zero impact on maintenance, this does it.

4) If this was an easy install I suspect 90% of them would be there. I'm wired funny. Once I decided where I wanted it, the difficulty of the install was not a concern, it was going there no matter what.

BTW, at NAFO I had to point out to people that I had a CC installed, no one noticed. It is definitely inconspicuous there.

v65 said:

UselessPickles said:

So, v65, you said "I have other reasons for not wanting to mount it on top of the engine as has been done on the AE's" in that thread. Could you tell us what those reasons were?

Click to expand...

Crap, now I have to be serious.

1) At the time of my install there was a lot of debate about how the heat was going to effect the units. I was afraid there might be some longevity issues mounting the unit right next to the engine, time has dispelled those concerns.

2) It wasn't clear to me what the CC unit would do to the airflow under the tank. Many argued that it wasn't an issue, again they appear to be correct.

3) The other reasons are more personal. For whatever reason I like to have a clean engine bay. I doubt others would see it as an issue, but since I have all winter to work on it I wanted an install that would have zero impact on maintenance, this does it.

4) If this was an easy install I suspect 90% of them would be there. I'm wired funny. Once I decided where I wanted it, the difficulty of the install was not a concern, it was going there no matter what.

BTW, at NAFO I had to point out to people that I had a CC installed, no one noticed. It is definitely inconspicuous there.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I'm wired kinda funny too, but in a different way. I wouldn't care if no one in the world could not notice something, but if I didn't like the way it looked, it would grab my attention and bother me every time I looked at the bike. I suppose I'll never be able to do any serious iron butt riding because I can't stand having anything on my bike that screams, "look at me! I'm a universal fit after-market item!"

Initial post updated with answers.

Can anyone tell me exactly where, physically, I can find the wire that supplies the tach/coil signal for the Audiovox CC?

Thanks.