Throttle Return Spring

Did the throttle spring return on my '08 - one turn. Was very easy :clapping: . However- upon staring up the bike and testing the throttle - when I open the throttle and see how fast it returns, it seems to hold a given rpm for a second or two and then the throttle starts to return slowly. The first time - it freaked me out. I'm not sure I like this really. I have read that some folks when they did this had it unwrap twice without noticing it and then it was too slow for sure. I made sure it only did one unwrap - so I'm baffled. Is it the mod I don't like - or was the mod not done correctly? :huh:

Oh yah - any tips on getting the spring back around to the original position?

Thanks Mates.

Scott

I've done about 6 or 7 of these, and they're all a quick snap back when released - except for one. This bike had an aftermarket triple T with set backs. This increased the tension on the throttle cables, the result being a very slow return.

Other things that can create problems are tight throttlemeisters, after market hand grips that place tension against the throttle tube, and Grip Puppies. Make sure you don't have any excess material from your grips dragging on the tube flange.

Get yourself some 80 pound test fishing line, about 3 feet or so. Tie a loop in one end, pass it around the "bail" of the spring, then hook the spring and pull it around. Might be a good idea to have a third hand for this. You might also have to help the little hook in the spring seat around the little tab you removed it from.

You have fun, and good luck !

Before I would go thru the effort of adding more tension in the spring I would put a little oil on the bar before slipping on the throttle tube - not grease because that would make it worse but a thin film of of clean 10W40. If nothing is dragging it may do the trick.

kaitsdad said:

I've done about 6 or 7 of these, and they're all a quick snap back when released - except for one. This bike had an aftermarket triple T with set backs. This increased the tension on the throttle cables, the result being a very slow return.
Other things that can create problems are tight throttlemeisters, after market hand grips that place tension against the throttle tube, and Grip Puppies. Make sure you don't have any excess material from your grips dragging on the tube flange.

Get yourself some 80 pound test fishing line, about 3 feet or so. Tie a loop in one end, pass it around the "bail" of the spring, then hook the spring and pull it around. Might be a good idea to have a third hand for this. You might also have to help the little hook in the spring seat around the little tab you removed it from.

You have fun, and good luck !

Click to expand...

I am the one bike Hal speaks of. I have made it habit to always turn the throttle off and not rely on the spring. It has never been a problem in three years. Time will tell.

This describes exactly what issue I am having.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=102020

Snaps back fine when motor not running... but with the motor on - not good. It also seems to over shoot the throttle application. In other words, I open the throttle to a point and the motor continues to increase in revs - then waits for 1-2 seconds and then comes back down. Not every time - but when I open the throttle rather aggressively.

I noticed when I unwound my spring one turn - it did not come to rest on the tang - but slightly ahead of it. Like this pic from the thread above:



And in this thread as well - some believe the factory is not consistent in its application of this spring and some may be wound 'tighter' than others. I think mine was wound loose and by unwrapping by one turn - it does not then have any tension early in throttle application and the later in throttle application the tension is light than normal.

I really feel I need to go back to original on this one. Now if I had some tiny hands... I'd have this thing back in now time.

Uggg... tain't dis sheite fun!

Scott

Mine was really tight, so I unwound it once, and then panicked! The damn thing wouldn't return by itself.

Turned out to be friction from the throttle lock ( which never really held at high speeds prior to this ). After lightening the tension on the throttle lock, bingo!

It's still takes a bit to keep the throttle open, but way better than before, and now the throttle lock works great!

Are you sure there's nothing else binding,rubber grip,etc.

I have a superior Gen1, like Redtail, and unwound the spring not once, but two times, no issues, pulls back no problem.

Ok a few tries at rewinding the spring back to normal. This is a bugger. Can it be done with out getting some extra space - like removing the air filter case? These seems like it would give better access to the back of the throttle bodies area.

thx

Scott

I checked the Clymer manual. Step 1 says: "First remove the engine"

But then Clymers have that as step one for every task on every bike.

Task: Filling with fuel

1. First remove the engine

I have had mine unwound for a year now. There is a bit of lazy return, but it will return after a short period of holding the same speed. I don't consider this a hazard, and I usually help the throttle return anyway in those situations needing quick shutdown. It helps to keep your freeplay adjusted to zero or near zero.

I can't remember but I believe each throttle body Assy has it's own little spring too. If yours is so loose that they don't return together, they are relying on the other springs, which may be different tensions also etc.

Now when I unwound my spring, the throttle snap back was very hard and quick. My wrist was really sore keeping the throttle open on rides. So when I did the first unwind, it had some difference but not much, the second time helped a bunch and I didn't want to chance anymore.

So I have to wonder how hard was the tension on your throttle before you messed with it? If it was light, or didn't bother your wrist, I would not have messed with it. Maybe on the Gen2s Yammer fixed the spring tension.

Also, is there any other friction on your throttle tube? That could delay rebound, but not the accelerating after you stop twisting.

It's not going to be real easy (access wise) to rewind that spring, not sure if the throttle body has to come off to do that or not.

Good luck.

I unwound mine and the throttle would not close....Took me two hours to unring that bell, however I made up some new words when I ran out of the usual ones. Put a dent in my pickup when I threw a needle nose plier. Didn't remove anything but I did solder a small ring terminal to a piece of primary wire which was rigid enough to hold the shape needed to snake around and hook the tang on the spring.

Yzerman19 said:

I have had mine unwound for a year now. There is a bit of lazy return, but it will return after a short period of holding the same speed. I don't consider this a hazard, and I usually help the throttle return anyway in those situations needing quick shutdown. It helps to keep your freeplay adjusted to zero or near zero.

Click to expand...

+1 When I did the unwind, it wouldn't close by itself until I adjusted the slack to almost nil. When I put on the 'un-named triple' that brings the bars back and up about an inch and a half each, I had to adjust it again, but it will snap back by itself. Good luck.

Bounce said:

I checked the Clymer manual. Step 1 says: "First remove the engine"

Click to expand...

Not that hard....

....but the final step "Now replace the engine" is a total ass-pain!

Ok... spring back to normal position. What a bugger that was. Total of about four hours work and 50 bucks in tools and supplies (forceps, long needles nose pliers, bent long needle nose pliers, 50lb test fishing line, 14" zip ties, LED head lamp). Fer crise sake... this was one pain in the conundrum. Then to boot, I lost a tool in the bowels of the motor.

In my opinion... on this mod... make sure you have a real need for it and spell out the risks (stuck throttle, weird throttle action, not being able to return to pre mod state, pain in the arseness... etc). For me I have wrist issues and thought this would help. It should have... but my spring was not too tight to being with and when I undid one turn... it was too loose.

Thanks for the help mates!

Scott

Scott - Glad it's all back to normal.

Maybe a link about this on the Gen2 Bin-O-Facts (from an Admin) about Gen2s not needing the spring messed with. Not sure if this is unique for Gen2 only, I don't recall any Gen1s with this issue. Maybe not all Gen2s had an issue once the spring was unwound once. Just sayin'.

FJRBluesman said:

Scott - Glad it's all back to normal.
Maybe a link about this on the Gen2 Bin-O-Facts (from an Admin) about Gen2s not needing the spring messed with. Not sure if this is unique for Gen2 only, I don't recall any Gen1s with this issue. Maybe not all Gen2s had an issue once the spring was unwound once. Just sayin'.

Click to expand...

Thing is, 'bluesy, not all Gen 1s need the mod either. No problem with my 04 and I'm ALMOST as limpwristed as Bustanut!

(or as YOU, since you required 2 unwinds! :lol: )

FJRBluesman said:

Scott - Glad it's all back to normal.
Maybe a link about this on the Gen2 Bin-O-Facts (from an Admin) about Gen2s not needing the spring messed with. Not sure if this is unique for Gen2 only, I don't recall any Gen1s with this issue. Maybe not all Gen2s had an issue once the spring was unwound once. Just sayin'.

Click to expand...

Might be a little premature don't you think? I've read of GenII owners performing this Mod and being very happy with the results. The relative 'tightness' of the throttle is Qualitative and subject to personal opinion. I considered doing the unwind but AudioVox solved my aching wrist on long trips issue.

FJRGuy said:

FJRBluesman said:

Scott - Glad it's all back to normal.
Maybe a link about this on the Gen2 Bin-O-Facts (from an Admin) about Gen2s not needing the spring messed with. Not sure if this is unique for Gen2 only, I don't recall any Gen1s with this issue. Maybe not all Gen2s had an issue once the spring was unwound once. Just sayin'.

Click to expand...

Might be a little premature don't you think? I've read of GenII owners performing this Mod and being very happy with the results. The relative 'tightness' of the throttle is Qualitative and subject to personal opinion. I considered doing the unwind but AudioVox solved my aching wrist on long trips issue.

Click to expand...

Gunny!

I, as well as several others that I know, still had pretty stiff throttles on their Gen IIs. (Mine is an 08) It compared 1 for 1 with my (05) Gen I, so I did the mod. Best/cheapest farkle I've done. I thin I agree with the OPs last post... BE SURE YOU NEED THIS MOD before performing it and be ready to "undo" it if you don't like the results.

A few more things I have noticed over the years on BOTH generations of the FJR as it relates to this mod:

1. Not all throttles have the same tension and therefore not all NEED to have this done.

2. Not all springs seem to "seat" back in the slot after the unwrap. This shows an inconsistency as stated above. (I've personally done this on several bikes for others who were "afraid"? to do it.

3. If you are like me, you like to have all the slack out of the cable in order to have immediate throttle response when you twist. "To hell with the books sloppy recommendation, I want it to rev as soon as I start twisting!" If this is the case, it will slow your return. I adjusted the slack out and my throttle was slow to return. I returned it to the stock "slightly sloppy" setting and it snaps back without issue. Might be something to consider.

4. ANY aftermarket add-on or adjustment will affect the return of the throttle. Cruise control, grips, grip-puppies, vista-cruise, bar-ends or even just the grip sliding up against the throttle assembly after a long, hot ride will change the resistance and cause return issues. Not to mention using a lubricant that gets "sticky" with age on the throttle tube. (By the way, the best is a dry lubricant; it won't gum up like grease can and it won't collect dirt like oil can. Think Graphite lube!)

5. Unlike most mods, this is affecting a CRITICAL system on your FJR. Don't do this unless you are ABSOLUTELY SURE about it, willing to undo it if needed and willing to accept any additional risk that may be associated with it. A slow-returning, non-returning or stuck throttle can kill you and/or others! (OK, disclaimer complete)

6. Finally, I would not recommend "living with" a throttle that is not 100% confidence-inspiring. If you are no longer comfortable with the reaction of your throttle, fix it.

JMHO.