'07 rear subframe broke!

Not the way to start a Labor Day ride :angry2: :angry2: But my fault!!

After about 18,000 miles with a Seahorse case and stuff, I go over a bump pulling into the gas station before going on a Labor Day ride and clunk!! The plastic grab rails are broken on both sides under the passenger seat, rear plastic covers are broken through, and ........ the rear subframe is broken (pictures "borrowed" from Last Chance's thread):





Hopefully, I can find a welder within an hour or two of the San Francisco Bay Area who can weld and reinforce it. Any "local" recommendations? If non"local", any recommendations?

Talked with Brodie after finding the problem and he suggested replacing the plastic Yamaha luggage rack with the Givi.

Anyone have any pictures or description of what you've doing to repair the break?

:angry2: Bummer, bummer.... but I did it to myself..... :angry2:

Bummer Roy. I used a guy in Merced that did a good job on my mirror mounts and CHEAP! Nice guy, sometimes hard to catch and I know that his shop isn't in your neighborhood, but if you strike out elsewhere, this guy can do it. Let me know if interested and I'll dig up his number.

Been there, done that.

https://www.forum.fjr13.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2050&hilit=rear+sub+frame

Got it welded by a local company, also something about a high magnesium tig weld with that type of alloy.

The Givi SR357 mounting option is the best.

Cheers

Ken

CAJW said:

Bummer Roy. I used a guy in Merced that did a good job on my mirror mounts and CHEAP!

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Thanks for the feedback. A friend has a couple of guys who might be willing to do it here locally. Will go by tomorrow afternoon and see. Over the phone we came up with an idea on how the reinforce the c-channel back there.

Roy Epperson said:

CAJW said:

Bummer Roy. I used a guy in Merced that did a good job on my mirror mounts and CHEAP!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. A friend has a couple of guys who might be willing to do it here locally. Will go by tomorrow afternoon and see. Over the phone we came up with an idea on how the reinforce the c-channel back there.

Click to expand...

Bummer timing, Roy. :huh: Let us know how it goes - with pictures, please!

Queensland Ken said:

The Givi SR357 mounting option is the best.

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+1.

You may want to unplug your engine and ABS ECM's while welding. Just to be on the safe side.

Iffn ya don't get it done and have to send it out...go with garauld here on the forum. He fixed mine up after my fall down and did it pretty cheap. Very reliable guy.

road runner said:

You may want to unplug your engine and ABS ECM's while welding. Just to be on the safe side.

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Gonna pull the subframe off. Don't want to take any chances.

Might have to write a "removing the rear subframe for dummies"

odot said:

Iffn ya don't get it done and have to send it out...go with garauld here on the forum. He fixed mine up after my fall down and did it pretty cheap. Very reliable guy.

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Gary was my first PM. Hope to not have to ship it. Thanks for the recommendation, Gary has done several things for me with his tail rack in the past.

NightShine said:

Bummer timing, Roy. :huh: Let us know how it goes - with pictures, please!

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Will do! Damn it.....

Gary was my first PM. Hope to not have to ship it. Thanks for the recommendation, Gary has done several things for me with his tail in the past.

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I am so sorry, I just can't resist this one, Roy!

<apologetic not> :lol:

Get her fixed up and back on the road ASAP - best wishes Roy!

dcarver said:

Gary was my first PM. Hope to not have to ship it. Thanks for the recommendation, Gary has done several things for me with his tail in the past.

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I am so sorry, I just can't resist this one, Roy!

<apologetic not> :lol:

Get her fixed up and back on the road ASAP - best wishes Roy!

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Gonna have to you band from the forum..... :yahoo:

What's your fascination with guy's tails???

The plan is just that. Haven't been down PCH to Cambria all year and we was heading that way when...

You had better PM me when in my hood... jes sayin'..

Roy Epperson said:

Not the way to start a Labor Day ride :angry2: :angry2: But my fault!!

After about 18,000 miles with a Seahorse case and stuff, I go over a bump pulling into the gas station before going on a Labor Day ride and clunk!! The plastic grab rails are broken on both sides under the passenger seat, rear plastic covers are broken through, and ........ the rear subframe is broken (pictures "borrowed" from Last Chance's thread):

Hopefully, I can find a welder within an hour or two of the San Francisco Bay Area who can weld and reinforce it. Any "local" recommendations? If non"local", any recommendations?

Talked with Brodie after finding the problem and he suggested replacing the plastic Yamaha luggage rack with the Givi.

Anyone have any pictures or description of what you've doing to repair the break?

:angry2: Bummer, bummer.... but I did it to myself..... :angry2:

Click to expand...

Need you to elaborate a little on why this was your fault. Am I to understand that the sub frame is that weak? How heavy is this Seahorse? I am concerned as I typically tour around with a 40 lb soft bag secured to the rear deck. However, the fella I bought the bike from had removed the Yamaha plastic deck and replaced it with a much wider aluminum rod rack and back rest. Do not know off hand where it bolts in but how is one to reinforce the luggage rack area so as to not but so much stress on the sub frame?

MajBach said:

Need you to elaborate a little on why this was your fault. Am I to understand that the sub frame is that weak? How heavy is this Seahorse? I am concerned as I typically tour around with a 40 lb soft bag secured to the rear deck. However, the fella I bought the bike from had removed the Yamaha plastic deck and replaced it with a much wider aluminum rod rack and back rest. Do not know off hand where it bolts in but how is one to reinforce the luggage rack area so as to not but so much stress on the sub frame?

Click to expand...

The key is how the rear luggage rack is mounted to the bike. The stock plastic rack uses a five-point mounting system. Three above the taillight, and two forward. The two forward attachment points, and the arms that connect to them, are what take the force of a load bouncing up and down. That's why the Givi rack system is preferred, because it also uses those same five mount points.

The problem occurs when you replace the stock system with another system that only uses the three mounts at the rear. That puts all the bounce leverage on the weak part of the subframe. At least, that's what happened to me. I wasn't able to use the Givi system. After the original subframe grenaded, I bought a new subframe, had the weak rear section reinforced by a welder, bolted on my three-bolt luggage rack, and then fabricated two arms that connect the rear rack up to the forward bolts, as in the original plastic system.

Ignacio has used the stock plastic rack as the basis for his rear luggage. He made a flat aluminum plate that connects to the plastic, then attaches his case to the base plate. It's been solid for thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of miles.

jwhite518 said:

MajBach said:

Need you to elaborate a little on why this was your fault. Am I to understand that the sub frame is that weak? How heavy is this Seahorse? I am concerned as I typically tour around with a 40 lb soft bag secured to the rear deck. However, the fella I bought the bike from had removed the Yamaha plastic deck and replaced it with a much wider aluminum rod rack and back rest. Do not know off hand where it bolts in but how is one to reinforce the luggage rack area so as to not but so much stress on the sub frame?

Click to expand...

The key is how the rear luggage rack is mounted to the bike. The stock plastic rack uses a five-point mounting system. Three above the taillight, and two forward. The two forward attachment points, and the arms that connect to them, are what take the force of a load bouncing up and down. That's why the Givi rack system is preferred, because it also uses those same five mount points.

The problem occurs when you replace the stock system with another system that only uses the three mounts at the rear. That puts all the bounce leverage on the weak part of the subframe. At least, that's what happened to me. I wasn't able to use the Givi system. After the original subframe grenaded, I bought a new subframe, had the weak rear section reinforced by a welder, bolted on my three-bolt luggage rack, and then fabricated two arms that connect the rear rack up to the forward bolts, as in the original plastic system.

Ignacio has used the stock plastic rack as the basis for his rear luggage. He made a flat aluminum plate that connects to the plastic, then attaches his case to the base plate. It's been solid for thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of miles.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I believe my rack is mounted to the same as stock but I will double check.

Need you to elaborate a little on why this was your fault. Am I to understand that the sub frame is that weak? I am concerned as I typically tour around with a 40 lb soft bag secured to the rear deck.

Click to expand...

I'm not sure when the subframe broke relative to when I discovered it broken. I discovered it broken when the ABS/plastic arms of the stock Yamaha broke loose at the forward two mounting bolts mid way along the passenger seat.

I put on about 20,000 miles since I put on the Seahorse (how I mounted it). Before that I strapped a duffet bag on to a Garaud rack when we did over night and longer trips. I'm guessing the duffet weighed about 20 lbs, I'm guessing that combo had had about 15,000 miles.

Every once in a while on "real sharp" jolt, I would hear a metal clank but could not figure out where it was coming from. I don't remember if I first heard before or after putting on the Seahorse as I seldom heard it. And I had not had the tail cone off since when I first got the FJR and tapped into the taillight wiring.

How heavy is this Seahorse?

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The Seahorse is an ABS version of the Pelican box. I didn't weigh just the Seahorse but it with the normal stuff in it and Garaud's rack weighs about 30 lbs with items which had some "weight" as far forward as possible. With this setup, on trips the duffel bag was strapped to the rear seat.

The two forward attachment points, and the arms that connect to them, are what take the force of a load bouncing up and down. That's why the Givi rack system is preferred, because it also uses those same five mount points.

Click to expand...

The Givi rack system is metal also. One on order! It is cheaper than the plastic one from Yamaha. Don't ask how expensive the tail cone molded plastic is..... The 2 side covers and the center piece that locks them over the tail light is about $400.

I was quoted $877 for a new subframe.

The problem occurs when you replace the stock system with another system that only uses the three mounts at the rear.

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I didn't replace the stock system, just added stuff to it. I wonder if the Givi rack would have prevented the break.... will never know.

Taking the subframe in Tuesday to get welded and strengthened and should have it back Thursday. Hopefully, I can remember where everything goes.... lotsa pictures... and will write up a "how to get the tail subframe off" after I get all the parts, do some rewiring, and get the FJR rolling

"The problem occurs when you replace the stock system with another system that only uses the three mounts at the rear"

Not completely correct. Mine broke and I was still using the stock rear rack. Just too much weight on it with the fuel cell.

Canadian FJR

Canadian FJR said:

"The problem occurs when you replace the stock system with another system that only uses the three mounts at the rear"

Not completely correct. Mine broke and I was still using the stock rear rack. Just too much weight on it with the fuel cell.

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Really. That's the first I've heard of a busted subframe with the stock rear rack. Good to know!

I suppose if the FJR had to have a weak spot, it's good that it's this one and not the final drive!