Windshield auto retract stop working

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Mihalis fjr

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On my 04/fjr1300 the auto retract after some times work and no work..stop working many months ago..I have checked the connection with the two red black black red leads with the black lead in the end and the conection is fine.When i turn of the main switch and the windshield is up,in the neutral position the green lamp turn off and the windshield stay in the same potition,it does not going down..From the handlebar switch it working perfect up and down when the main switch is on.I have reed many posts in the site from many owners with the same problem..but they did not find where is the problem..did someone have find the solution of this problem??the problem is in the drive unit..??or a connection or a lead somewhere..??The back up fuse and all the other fuses are ok!

 
You are right. While I have seen others describe the problem, I have not seen what the solution is. I *think* one person figured out they would have to replace the entire windscreen motor unit. An expensive proposition.

Funny thing is, many of us deliberately disable the auto-retract function of the windscreen because we don't like it.

 
You are right. While I have seen others describe the problem, I have not seen what the solution is. I *think* one person figured out they would have to replace the entire windscreen motor unit. An expensive proposition.

Funny thing is, many of us deliberately disable the auto-retract function of the windscreen because we don't like it.
Thanks 'SkooterG'!

Finaly i think the same..'motor unit'!probably the problem is in the black box in the end of the wires on the motor unit..

Something going wrong inside there..but i think it can not opening..

Anyway..maybee i will try to open it if i can, to have a look inside...

 
Does your clock work, or do you see it reset frequently? You said the backup fuse is OK, but it supplies power to the windshield drive after the key is off. Without that fuse, there will be no auto-retract, but you wouldn't have the clock or trip-meters, either.

At the motor unit electrical connector, you should have 12 volts on the red wire at all times, and 12 volts on the brown/yellow wire when the key is on. Brown/Red is 12 volts for the neutral light. Neutral light will not light if 12 volts is not found here. 2 of the other fours wires come from the up/down switch, and apply ground when the switch is selected for up or down. The last 2 wires are the plug that enables auto-retract; it's basically just a jumper wire. Removing that plug disables auto-retract, so if everything else checks correctly, that connection would be something to look at.

If you try to open that up, you're on your own. If you bust it up you may lose windshield adjustment altogether, and destroying the circuit could cost you your neutral light as well.

 
Does your clock work, or do you see it reset frequently? You said the backup fuse is OK, but it supplies power to the windshield drive after the key is off. Without that fuse, there will be no auto-retract, but you wouldn't have the clock or trip-meters, either.

At the motor unit electrical connector, you should have 12 volts on the red wire at all times, and 12 volts on the brown/yellow wire when the key is on. Brown/Red is 12 volts for the neutral light. Neutral light will not light if 12 volts is not found here. 2 of the other fours wires come from the up/down switch, and apply ground when the switch is selected for up or down. The last 2 wires are the plug that enables auto-retract; it's basically just a jumper wire. Removing that plug disables auto-retract, so if everything else checks correctly, that connection would be something to look at.

If you try to open that up, you're on your own. If you bust it up you may lose windshield adjustment altogether, and destroying the circuit could cost you your neutral light as well.
Thanks 'wfooshee'!

Yes the clock and trip meters works perfect!the black jumper wire and his connection is ok!i have checked it.it looks like no 12 volts come inside the motor unit from the red wire..maybee a fault connection coupler..i must take out the front cowling and checking carefully if 12 volts come in the coupler with the 6 wires..and rechecking to the couplers again for a firm contact..if all are ok..maybee the problem is inside to the black box somewhere in the circuit...

Thanks again!

 
You'll likely find that the limit switch is corroded. This is a normally closed switch that opens to cut power to the motor when the ignition is switched off. I haved no idea WHERE it is, but if you can get to it and clean it up so that the contact is clean it'll work again.

 
You'll likely find that the limit switch is corroded. This is a normally closed switch that opens to cut power to the motor when the ignition is switched off. I haved no idea WHERE it is, but if you can get to it and clean it up so that the contact is clean it'll work again.
Thanks 'bramfrank'!

When i take out the front cowling,first i check for 12 volts come in the coupler from the red wire,after that i will try to find and check this switch..i hope it is somewhere out of the motor unit..!!if the 12 volts come inside and if this switch is ok..probably the problem is inside the black box....

 
.it looks like no 12 volts come inside the motor unit from the red wire..
Without that 12 volts, the motor drive has no power after the key is shut off. Trace that red wire. Nothing else matters until that red wire has 12 volts.

 
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Another possible fix for this is to trade windshield motors with those who wish to have their windshields not retract when the bike is shut off. Just sayin'. ;)

 
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