Clutch Soak, Part 2

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mcatrophy

Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
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I've been wanting to soak my second FJR's clutch for a little while. Although its behaviour was better than my '06 when that was new, it hasn't been as good as the '06 after its soak.

So, using my own guide (better than my memory!), posted here, I soaked my '10.

Several comments:

I was fortunate that the gasket came away cleanly from the crankcase with the cover, no issues needing a new one or in cleaning up the mating surfaces.

Because on my first clutch soak I got an SH__26 error, I wanted to make sure it was operating correctly before putting on the cover. So, with the cover off and before disassembling, I turned on the ignition. Clearly the AS (AE) does a self-check of the clutch operation, it immediately operated and relaxed the clutch, sounded like a single click it was so quick, but I could see it moved by something like 3 mm (1/8th inch) out and back. This was not measured in any way, just my observation of a very rapid event. I did take a video of it with my camera, I stripped out frames to try to get a better idea of movement and time.
(Click on image for larger view)
Just before it moved . . . . . . . . . . As far out as the video showed
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0_DSCF5355_frame_0077.jpg



All the pink dots on the friction were between the little arrows in the basket casting, shows they were deliberately assembled like this in the factory (I still have no real idea why).
0_DSCF5360.JPG


The clutch was identical to my '06. It had the white dot, not the word "outer" on the inner ring, and didn't have the little retaining clip as found on some '08 and '09 clutches.

The plates didn't seem quite as dry as on my '06, but were definitely not swimming in oil. This is consistent with my above observations about its behaviour.

I soaked the plates for 4 hours, not overnight - this may or may not be good enough longer term, we shall see.

Then, having reassembled and checked the clutch movement again, I started the engine and let it [fast] idle for a few seconds. Again, I videoed this, and repeated with some still shots. These show the oil being centrifuged off the clutch basket, but I couldn't really tell how the oil was being moved into the area, though it was obviously splashing in from the crank.

The still shots were at about two second intervals, the first and last (about 9 seconds apart) are below:
0_DSCF5374.JPG
0_DSCF5378.JPG


You can clearly see the build-up of oil thrown out onto the inner casing.

The result after two days and a few local trips: although the bike was never bad, it would judder a little on the first cold move from rest of the day, that didn't happen on the one cold start today. Also, gear-changes are generally smoother with less need to try to match revs during the change.

It was well worth doing the soak.

All the pictures I took can be seen here, I treat them as extras to my first set, definitely not "stand-alone".

Ps. I waited until the bike was over two years old so that it was out of its UK warranty period of two years.

 
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I wrote it again and you must believe me..!!I am a bike engineer and i have worked for Yamaha Greece for a while..do not solve the problem with this way.that solved for a while..For a little miles..Until to dry again..!!!The problem is..:THE CLUTCH HOUSING!The fjr clutch housing,doesn't let oil pass between the clutch and friction plates!Yamaha knows the problem but i don't know why she don't improve theese damn't clutch housings like other models like my second bike XTZ750 SUPER TENERE 1990 model,that the improvement from the 1991 with many big holes to pass the oil inside..!!!

 
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Just don't put your bike in neutral and you won't have a shifting problem. I quit using neutral about two months ago and haven't had a shifting problem since. :yahoo:

 
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I wrote it again and you must believe me..!!I am a bike engineer and i have worked for Yamaha Greece for a while..do not solve the problem with this way.that solved for a while..For a little miles..Until to dry again..!!!The problem is..:THE CLUTCH HOUSING!The fjr clutch housing,doesn't let oil pass between the clutch and friction plates!Yamaha knows the problem but i don't know why she don't improve theese damn't clutch housings like other models like my second bike XTZ750 SUPER TENERE 1990 model,that the improvement from the 1991 with many big holes to pass the oil inside..!!!
Thank you for your contribution, and yes I'm well aware of your opinion.

My experience is that my '06 behaved very well for several thousand miles before I sold it, also many other members of this forum have had lasting success with this procedure (with a few exceptions).

If there is a design fault, we would first have to get Yamaha to recognise this (not an easy thing to do as we are all aware). Then, to get a free replacement with any improved design, prove this was a safety issue, and do that separately in each market, as such recalls don't necessarily read across.

In the mean time, anyone suffering a clutch issue today can, with a couple of hours work and minimum of expenditure (in my last case just a small quantity of oil), perform this procedure and get an immediate benefit. How long this lasts I can't say, but if I had to repeat this occasionally, it is no worse than changing the spark plugs. Actually, easier.

It's up to the owner to either do it now, or wait some indeterminate time so that, maybe, Yamaha would issue a recall. I've made my choice.

 
Just don't put your bike in neutral and you won't have a shifting problem. I quit using neutral about two months ago and haven't had a shifting problem since. :yahoo:
Starting in gear stops the clunk into first, a clutch soak won't do that in any case (unless it was really bad).

Doesn't help with the "cold" judder moving from rest.

Won't help with subsequent sticky gear changes.

If you don't suffer from these, a clutch soak would do nothing for you.

In any case, I like to warm mine up before moving off, it's normally parked using the siide-stand, so it has to be in neutral.

 
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Really think you should do the clutch soak often and you do not believe that something is wrong in there?If all was well we would not need to do a clutch soak...My opinion and my experience all theese years like a bike engineer he told me..:This clutch housing need an improving...This clutch housing does not leave the oil circulate between the clutch and friction plates.Just the same problem happened and to all XTZ750 and when Yamaha improvement the clutch housing with some big holes the problem solved!This i believe....

 
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Really think you should do the clutch soak often and you do not believe that something is wrong in there?If all was well we would not need to do a clutch soak...My opinion and my experience all theese years like a bike engineer he told me..:This clutch housing need an improving...This clutch housing does not leave the oil circulate between the clutch and friction plates.Just the same problem happened and to all XTZ750 and when Yamaha improvement the clutch housing with some big holes the problem solved!This i believe....
If you want to drill holes in your housing, please do. I won't.

If you can persuade Yamaha to change their design, please do. We'll all be grateful.

Meantime, our clutches are as they are, and we have to live with them as they are.

 
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I did not say to drill it..I said Yamaha must improve this..and my opinion is this..Have been made complaints to Yamaha about this from many many dealers..I respect your opinion.

 
I don't think anyone has said that the design is perfect as it is. Sure it could use improvement, but we aren't going to get that fix it seems, so the soak is the measure we have to take to fix it.

FWIW, mine was bad when I picked it up. I presume it was from sitting so long at the dealership. However, after a soak mine was much improved. I still have no problems but I suspect that it is because I commute daily on it.

 
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