Sick FJR

After putting in a new battery and new plugs, I was able to coax my 04 FJR to life after sitting for 11 weeks. See "Won't start again" thread for details.

As I was trying to start the bike, it would fire occassionally at partial throttle. Finally, after a repeated tries it lit off, missing a bit. I warmed it to three bars and let it idle down. Played with the throttle a bit, then when I reved it a bit, it died when I let off the throttle.

I did hear the fuel pump run and then shut off while the bike was running, I've never heard that before, but then I don't think I've ever been kneeling next to the tank while it was running either.

I check for spark, and there is a spark on albeit yellow, not blue. Before I took the 2500 mile trip in March, I had the throttle position sensor replaced with the Yamaha recall. The bike ran flawlessly when parked after the trip and there no problems on the trip.

I tried to restart the bike, and it didn't want to start without opening the throttle.

Any suggestions? Something is definetly wrong. It has 20000 miles on the clock.

I am thinking maybe the TPS or fuel pump. I've checked all the hoses and they seem okay. Nothing new or different since the trip, except for the new plugs and battery I installed yesterday.

I am thinking my only option at this point is to get it to the dealer. I'm sure the mechanic, has never seen one before. Any help would be appreciated.

The TPS has room for adjustment I think -- could it be loose after the dealer replaced it??

Just 02c worth from a "non mechanic"

I've taken my FJR back to the dealer more than once after replaced parts have "loosened"

Sounds silly, but do you see any corrosion on battery terminals or elsewhere? 11 weeks isn't very long, but down here on Guf Coast corrosion is a pain in the butt.

The TPS has room for adjustment I think -- could it be loose after the dealer replaced it??Just 02c worth from a "non mechanic"

I've taken my FJR back to the dealer more than once after replaced parts have "loosened"

Click to expand...

^^^agree^^^

First run through the Fuel Injection and Electrical System "Fault Code" diagnostics as described in Sections 7-1 to 7-45 in your Gen I Service Manual...the bike is remarkably capable of examining itself...there's no easy way out unless you do this or have this done by you Dealer IMO.

Gary in Fairbanks

One thing that tells me it's more of a battery or electrical connection problem is the fact you said the spark was yellow and not blue. If you have a charger of some type I'd put it on for a while before attempting to start the engine. Several things you may want to do so you can rule some of the items out. If you use a regular charger and not a trickle charger that turns itself off when charging is complete may have started a problem for you. Most batteries die due to being overcharged, they can act fine one minuet and be dead or have a shorted cell the next. I would leave the charger on when you attempt to start the engine, once it starts have a meter ready to measure the voltage at the battery while the bike is running and the charger removed. Check the positive and negative terminals to see how much voltage you have at the terminals, it should be around 14 volts with the bike running. You can check the battery before you start it up, but don't put the charger on it at this time, you want to measure the voltage with the battery exactly the way it was when you attempted to start the engine, the reading needs to be at least 12 volts. If it's lower than 12 volts, it could be the battery is near history and needs to be replaced, it may even need to be charged.

Batteries used in these bikes have a huge demand on them for the size they are, they supply power to your Headlight, Starter, Injectors, Ignition, and Fuel Pump and are doing this all at the same time. Who knows, I may have even missed something else the battery powers while trying to get the engine going. As you can see the battery can easily be the weak link in the chain.

If you charge your battery when your bikes not being used, use something like a Battery Tender, these don't overcharge and kill your battery like a normal charger will. I didn't see if it was in your post, is the battery the original one? If so just replace it with the biggest one you can get for the bike.

One thing you need to be aware of is the starter, when you are trying to get the engine started don't keep the starter button pushed for long periods of time, this is very hard on it and is extremely expensive to replace. Your injected engine should start within two to three seconds. One other thing to note, when checking plugs for fire, always be sure they are properly grounded. I'm not positive on the FJR but Harley's are famous for blowing the ignition module when being checked and the plugs aren't properly grounded, this compounds the problem because the Technition has the original problem and another they have created.

I would make sure the battery itself and the ignition connections are good before I went anywhere else. That yellow spark is definately part of your problem.

Good Luck,

clutchless1

Well, go figure. Last night and this morning, the bike started up and ran like nothing ever happened. :yahoo:

I still don't have the foggiest idea what has caused this situation other than the bike just doesn't like to left sitting. I'm still of the opinion that fuel rail dries out and somehow, air locks, preventing fuel to be delivered without a lot of tinkering.

Well, hopefully this problem is behing me. I'm going to celebrate by loading up the bike with tent, sleeping bag and my mandolin, heading to the Bill Monroe Bluegrass Festival in Bean Blossom, Indiana.

If bike has sat for a while, the following would apply.

1) Cycle key on for 2 seconds, then off, 3 times.

2) Crank motor normally.

3) If no start, hold throttle wide open, crank till motor starts.

4) Still not start, repeat key cycling.

Yes, the rail does drain down after a bit. The pressure regulator opens wide with a high vac signal, such as that found at idle, but while cranking, will be closed due to no vac signal, and so the rail is slow to fill. The key cycling helps insure the rail is full. Important here is getting a fast start on the bike. excessive cranking without a start lowers battery voltage, slowing crank speed but more importantly lowering the voltage available to the coils. If the plugs get wet, the motor will not run, period, so one must make an effort to prevent even a minor flooding condition to ensure a fast start. Cycling the key to be sure the rail is charged will not cause flooding. Not having enough fuel to create a proper mixture will cause flooding, and once the motor is flooded, the real problems begin. I have seen a number of bikes not light off after sitting a while-the WFO throttle has yet to fail even with a battery down on voltage. WFO shuts off the injector pulse, and feeds plenty of air to help light a semi-flooded motor, but once again, get the plugs good and wet and they just short directly to ground and all bets are off. Cranking a hard starter WFO, then re-cycling the key to charge the rail helps prevent a plug soaking that will doom any starting effort-if the bike hasn't started after doing the procedure as detailed above, then either you have no fuel, the plugs are shot or got wet despite your attempts to prevent it, or you have a hard failure that will need further inspection.

racer said:

Well, go figure. Last night and this morning, the bike started up and ran like nothing ever happened. :yahoo:
I still don't have the foggiest idea what has caused this situation other than the bike just doesn't like to left sitting. I'm still of the opinion that fuel rail dries out and somehow, air locks, preventing fuel to be delivered without a lot of tinkering.

Well, hopefully this problem is behing me. I'm going to celebrate by loading up the bike with tent, sleeping bag and my mandolin, heading to the Bill Monroe Bluegrass Festival in Bean Blossom, Indiana.

Click to expand...

I would read Rad's post...lot of good info there. As far as bluegrass...that sounds like a good time as long as the weather is good. I've got a fiddle and mandolin that I've played now and then. The fiddle more than the mando. Bean Blossum - yeah baby...

racer said:

Well, go figure. Last night and this morning, the bike started up and ran like nothing ever happened. :yahoo:
Well, hopefully this problem is behind me. I'm going to celebrate by loading up the bike with tent, sleeping bag and my mandolin.

Click to expand...

With the problems you've been having, I'd bring a violin instead. :lol:

There's no need to cycle the key for the rail to pressurize man. WHen you turn the key on, the pump will run until the rail reaches a set pressure, then turn off. I started my bike for the first time Wednesday, and the pump ran for 2 more seconds than it does now due to no fuel at all in the system, but once the pump stopped, it started right up.

I thought it'd crank a few seconds before firing up due to air in the fuel rail, but nothing. Just FYI. Later.

JC