CO test on '07 FJR

Howdy all...just finished a CO read at one of our local Emission Compliance facilities here in Fairbanks, AK...our Borough Gov't requires it of all automobiles registered in the Borough that are run year-round, to reduce the effects of ice fog and bad JuJu during periods of stagnant cold air during the Winter months...motorcycles are exempt.

Working conditions: 2007 FJR1300A with 1100 miles, Barbarian mod done but initially set to Factory spec of plus 5,18,18,21, Staintune cans w/ baffles in, idle 1000-1100, complete throttle body synch this week at both idle and 3500 RPM within spec at each of <10MM, regular fuel, elevation 450', and air temp +74F...the calibrated CO test probe showed 0 prior to insertion in each can...four bars to fan on at end of test less than 10 minutes total.

CO Test Results at both idle and 2500 RPM's: BM factory setting = 5, 18, 18, 21, Left 2.3 ppm CO, Right 2.5 ppm CO...BM +5 each = 10, 23, 23, 26, Left 3.1 ppm CO, Right 3.4 ppm CO...BM -5 = 0,13,13,16, Left 1.6 ppm CO, Right 2.3 ppm CO...Test at 2500 RPM = 0.5 ppm CO in each can.

The experienced Tech I worked with said that he felt that a second cat inline if the stock muffler were installed might have reduced the CO a little, but not much, as they might not be hot enough at idle(?)...he said that he'd like to see less than 1.5 ppm at idle for emissions purposes...for power settings they were fine and the +5 was at the upper limit he likes to see for offroad and racing purposes (only of course)...the data appears linear in increase and decrease...It appears that the Left can is slightly leaner at idle in all settings than the Right, but in reality the data stream from the machine varied somewhat and sometimes showed an overlap within each BM test setting...the values I show were an estimated average for each...$25 well spent IMO.

Comments please?

Gary in Fairbanks

Hey Gary, very interesting results. First of all, the 1.5% he was referring to is for cars, right? I wonder if you can translate CO levels to A/F ratios. That 1.5 sounds to me like a lean 16:1 ratio or so, no? What would be the CO% of running stoichiometric?

What were the tech's, and your conclusions? Is our bike lean enough at stock 5,18,18,21 settings, or can you safely go down to 0,13,13,16?

And about the unequal values, it's obvious the CO levels are not matched perfectly, but close enough, due to the 0.5% even at higher rpms. Which brings me to my last question: Isn't the engine supposed to be leaner at idle than at those revs? It seems to be running super lean at 0.5%, no? Didn't you test the other CO levels at high rpms to see how they changed?? Maybe that's why we're getting the surging, no? It runs fine at idle, but excessively lean at the EPA cycle rpms, no? Did you notice if your motor held the higher rpms easier or harder as you changed the CO levels? Your observations are welcome.

Let me end by asking you what values are you going to run after that test??

JC

PA1195 said:

Howdy all...just finished a CO read at one of our local Emission Compliance facilities here in Fairbanks, AK...our Borough Gov't requires it of all automobiles registered in the Borough that are run year-round, to reduce the effects of ice fog and bad JuJu during periods of stagnant cold air during the Winter months...motorcycles are exempt.
Working conditions: 2007 FJR1300A with 1100 miles, Barbarian mod done but initially set to Factory spec of plus 5,18,18,21, Staintune cans w/ baffles in, idle 1000-1100, complete throttle body synch this week at both idle and 3500 RPM within spec at each of <10MM, regular fuel, elevation 450', and air temp +74F...the calibrated CO test probe showed 0 prior to insertion in each can...four bars to fan on at end of test less than 10 minutes total.

CO Test Results at both idle and 2500 RPM's: BM factory setting = 5, 18, 18, 21, Left 2.3 ppm CO, Right 2.5 ppm CO...BM +5 each = 10, 23, 23, 26, Left 3.1 ppm CO, Right 3.4 ppm CO...BM -5 = 0,13,13,16, Left 1.6 ppm CO, Right 2.3 ppm CO...Test at 2500 RPM = 0.5 ppm CO in each can.

The experienced Tech I worked with said that he felt that a second cat inline if the stock muffler were installed might have reduced the CO a little, but not much, as they might not be hot enough at idle(?)...he said that he'd like to see less than 1.5 ppm at idle for emissions purposes...for power settings they were fine and the +5 was at the upper limit he likes to see for offroad and racing purposes (only of course)...the data appears linear in increase and decrease...It appears that the Left can is slightly leaner at idle in all settings than the Right, but in reality the data stream from the machine varied somewhat and sometimes showed an overlap within each BM test setting...the values I show were an estimated average for each...$25 well spent IMO.

Comments please?

Gary in Fairbanks

Click to expand...

Hi Gary, I just ran my 2005 at Idle and 3500 on the gas analyzer. Being an auto mechanic I was just playing around at lunch and not being too precise.

Here is what I got.

100 degrees ambient temp in the shade with 2 bars on the bikes temp guage at start up. Test probe was in right tailpipe only.

With factory co setting 1% CO with 450 ppm HC and 11.5% CO2. This looks like a typical lean condition and the Cat is not working yet.

If the Cat was warmed up and working the CO and HC would be less and the CO2 would be 13% or higher.

Shut bike off and changed the CO settings +7 and rechecked at Idle.

Now 2% CO with 280 ppm HC and 11.5% CO2 at Idle. Then took it to 3500 rpm and saw 4% CO after it stabilized.

Shut down and changed to + 9 over stock. Now 3% at Idle and 6 % at 3500. I ran it longer to see if the Cat could handle this and it was too rich to light the CAT.

Shut down and changed to + 8 over stock. Still to rich for the Cat at speed. Reset to +6 over stock and the Cat would light and took CO down to .74% and HC to 30ppm with CO2 at 13.85 %

I left it like that and rode it home after work. Seems to run fine and is just below what the CAT can handle but richer than stock.

Later on I will put Rivnuts in the pipes and tune each Cyl. separately but for now I think I will just ride it.

Here is a little explanation of the readings if you don't allready know.

CO is Carbon Monoxide which is a byproduct of incomplete combustion.

HC is Hydro Carbon which is raw unburned fuel.

CO2 is Carbon Dioxide a byproduct of combustion.

O2 is Oxygen which I didn't post any readings for.

So when you put HC and O2 in the engine you get CO and CO2 out the tailpipe plus what ever HC and O2 you did not use in the combustion process.

You also get other nasties that we don't measure for mixture purpose. Like NOx. The CAT will take your 4% CO and 250 ppm HC and convert it to CO2 and H20.

I hope that makes it clear as mud for some and for the Chemists on the list forgive me for being vague.

Mike Whalen

FNG :blink:

ELP_JC said:

Hey Gary, very interesting results. First of all, the 1.5% he was referring to is for cars, right?(Yes)

I wonder if you can translate CO levels to A/F ratios. That 1.5 sounds to me like a lean 16:1 ratio or so, no? What would be the CO% of running stoichiometric?

(I don't know, but my gut would say 0% CO at 14.7:1...as Red Skelton the Comedian would say "I don't explain 'em, I just do 'em...maybe others can explain the details, or Google-up engine combustion, etc.)

What were the tech's, and your conclusions? Is our bike lean enough at stock 5,18,18,21 settings, or can you safely go down to 0,13,13,16?

(The tech would have liked to see -5 BM or less for emissions...I'm leaning to Factory spec, or up to no more than +5 if there's a running issue on my bike, which so far there isn't...see Hycycle's post below for further data and maybe he can explain what it all means...It seems that his CO data is quite different than mine for +- settings and that may be due to GenI vs. GenII ECU's)

And about the unequal values, it's obvious the CO levels are not matched perfectly, but close enough, due to the 0.5% even at higher rpms. Which brings me to my last question: Isn't the engine supposed to be leaner at idle than at those revs?

(Not if the CAT is offline at idle as Hycycle suggests)

It seems to be running super lean at 0.5%, no? Didn't you test the other CO levels at high rpms to see how they changed?? Maybe that's why we're getting the surging, no? It runs fine at idle, but excessively lean at the EPA cycle rpms, no? Did you notice if your motor held the higher rpms easier or harder as you changed the CO levels? Your observations are welcome.

(Didn't test different BM settings at 2500...just the factory...10 minutes isn't much time as other customers were waiting for service and I was lucky to even get it done at all...0.5% what's left after the CAT cooks as Hycycle explains)

Let me end by asking you what values are you going to run after that test??

(Factory 5,18,18,21...I was running +4 as on my '07 it seemed rich at low rpms at setting higher than that...the database to date has generally beeen for GenI bikes so ours might be different...take care...Gary in Fairbanks)

JC

Click to expand...

"Hi Gary, I just ran my 2005 at Idle and 3500 on the gas analyzer. Being an auto mechanic I was just playing around at lunch and not being too precise.

Here is what I got.

100 degrees ambient temp in the shade with 2 bars on the bikes temp guage at start up. Test probe was in right tailpipe only.

With factory co setting 1% CO with 450 ppm HC and 11.5% CO2. This looks like a typical lean condition and the Cat is not working yet.

If the Cat was warmed up and working the CO and HC would be less and the CO2 would be 13% or higher.

Shut bike off and changed the CO settings +7 and rechecked at Idle.

Now 2% CO with 280 ppm HC and 11.5% CO2 at Idle. Then took it to 3500 rpm and saw 4% CO after it stabilized.

Shut down and changed to + 9 over stock. Now 3% at Idle and 6 % at 3500. I ran it longer to see if the Cat could handle this and it was too rich to light the CAT.

Shut down and changed to + 8 over stock. Still to rich for the Cat at speed. Reset to +6 over stock and the Cat would light and took CO down to .74% and HC to 30ppm with CO2 at 13.85 %

I left it like that and rode it home after work. Seems to run fine and is just below what the CAT can handle but richer than stock.

Later on I will put Rivnuts in the pipes and tune each Cyl. separately but for now I think I will just ride it.

Here is a little explanation of the readings if you don't allready know.

CO is Carbon Monoxide which is a byproduct of incomplete combustion.

HC is Hydro Carbon which is raw unburned fuel.

CO2 is Carbon Dioxide a byproduct of combustion.

O2 is Oxygen which I didn't post any readings for.

So when you put HC and O2 in the engine you get CO and CO2 out the tailpipe plus what ever HC and O2 you did not use in the combustion process.

You also get other nasties that we don't measure for mixture purpose. Like NOx. The CAT will take your 4% CO and 250 ppm HC and convert it to CO2 and H20.

I hope that makes it clear as mud for some and for the Chemists on the list forgive me for being vague.

Mike Whalen"

Hi Mike and thanks for the test info...seems to me that your GenI needs a larger +BM change than my GenII did to get higher CO values...I think we both now have only a single CAT pair in the collector (my stock cans are off), so maybe the ECU's are programmed richer for GenII's with the four CATs at idle...running CO values seem the same...and mine would likely be lower and also clean up NO and HC a bit better with the second pair in the cans...comments? (It's time for cat jokes out the ***!)

Gary in Fairbanks

Hi Mike and thanks for the test info...seems to me that your GenI needs a larger +BM change than my GenII did to get higher CO values...I think we both now have only a single CAT pair in the collector (my stock cans are off), so maybe the ECU's are programmed richer for GenII's with the four CATs at idle...running CO values seem the same...and mine would likely be lower and also clean up NO and HC a bit better with the second pair in the cans...comments? (It's time for cat jokes out the ***!)

Gary in Fairbanks

"And about the unequal values, it's obvious the CO levels are not matched perfectly, but close enough, due to the 0.5% even at higher rpms. Which brings me to my last question: Isn't the engine supposed to be leaner at idle than at those revs?

(Not if the CAT is offline at idle as Hycycle suggests)"

My CAT was not warmed up yet is why it did not effect my mixture readings at Idle. Once the CAT was warmed up by running at higher rpm it cleaned up the tailpipe readings and I would not be able to tell the difference between 1% and 4% before the cat. I intentionaly did not want the CAT to clean up the readings before I could get some idea of what the BM changes actually did. Depending on the CAT you can have quite a difference in readings before and after. I have seen 6% CO cleaned up to less than .5%.

I have a portable 5 gas analyzer I can hook up next week to see how the percentages convert to AF ratio with the push of a button.

Be aware that most O2 sensors operate in the 13.5 to 15.2 AF range and 14.7 to 1 with an output of .495 volts. Once the mixture is richer or leaner the Mixture is no longer being controlled by the O2 sensor. I am not sure what kind of Sensor the Yamaha uses on gen2 bikes.

"My CAT was not warmed up yet is why it did not effect my mixture readings at Idle. Once the CAT was warmed up by running at higher rpm it cleaned up the tailpipe readings and I would not be able to tell the difference between 1% and 4% before the cat. I intentionaly did not want the CAT to clean up the readings before I could get some idea of what the BM changes actually did. Depending on the CAT you can have quite a difference in readings before and after. I have seen 6% CO cleaned up to less than .5%.

I have a portable 5 gas analyzer I can hook up next week to see how the percentages convert to AF ratio with the push of a button.

Be aware that most O2 sensors operate in the 13.5 to 15.2 AF range and 14.7 to 1 with an output of .495 volts. Once the mixture is richer or leaner the Mixture is no longer being controlled by the O2 sensor. I am not sure what kind of Sensor the Yamaha uses on gen2 bikes."

Thanks Mike for the info...please share your findings as time permits...seems like most of the old folks here just want to lick their butts, bark, and watch kids and cars pass by.

Gary in Fairbanks

Guess the cat messed up our plans to know what the heck the ECU is doing. Oh well. I'm going to set my CO to +2 for now. Need to do a lot more testing myself, but mountains are pretty far away. Will wait until I have the synch done before heading that way again. Hope the surging is down to a tolerable level, so I can forget about this stupid problem until Yamaha comes up with a fix. Later.

JC

Howdy all...please see my first post above for some background on this experiment...after posting #284 in the thread regarding the 2007 Surging Issue about an European rider's uniform CO settings, I decided to temporarily set my CO values to all +18 for cyls 1-4 and see how it ran and have it tested again for CO emissions...here's the CO data in ppm for each exhaust outlet at idle and 2500 rpm for the first and second tests:

Date: 7/7/07 Original test

CO setting: 5 18 18 21 (baseline = unstable idle)

Left: Idle 2.3 2500 0.05

Right: Idle 2.5 2500 0.05

CO setting: 10 23 23 26 (+5 each = better idle and smoother at 2500)

Left: Idle 3.1

Right: Idle 3.4

CO setting: 0 13 13 16 (-5 each = unstable idle and uneven at 2500)

Left: Idle 1.6

Right: Idle 2.3

Notes: It appears that the left exhaust fed mainly by cyls 1/2 was somewhat leaner than the right fed mainly by cyls 3/4...the idle at 1050 was unstable +- a needle width at all settings, the typical rough spot at 2500 rpm was noted, and holding that rpm steady during the brief test was difficult.

Date: 7/10/07 Second test

CO setting: 18 18 18 18 (baseline = smooth even idle and at 2500 and CO readings stable)

Left: Idle 3.1 2500 0.03

Right: Idle 3.1 2500 0.03

CO setting: 23 23 23 23 (+5 each = edge of rich and slighly rougher at idle and 2500)

Left: Idle 3.9 2500 0.03 (CO readings started to jump around at idle and 2500 rpm)

Right: Idle 4.0 2500 0.03 (CO readings started to jump around at idle and 2500 rpm)

CO setting: 13 13 13 13 (-5 each = smooth at idle and 2500 rpm and readings stable)

Left: Idle 2.2 2500 0.03

Right: Idle 2.3 2500 0.03

Notes: Motor sounds and feels smoother at both idle and 2500 on the centerstand...the difference between exhaust readings appears reduced at a given CO setting compared to the first test...the Tech asked what the max recommended CO was and felt +5 (23 for all) was too rich and that the CATS were at their edge at 2500 for a good cleanup.

So, here's the data...I feel +13 for all up to +18 would be worth a try if you want smoother running on your bike just to see if yours responds like mine...do a test and let me know how it runs...I doubt that there will be a harmful lean condition but check the plugs if you're concerned...I can' t believe that there's a good reason for the Factory spread of CO/injector values that we see...maybe someone with a GenII bike can probe each pipe and let us know how that reads.

Gary in Fairbanks

Baseline on most all the 06's I have seen is:

-10, 8, 8, 11

I may put them all at +15 just for grins and see if it makes any improvement.

Hey Gary, VERY interesting buddy.

Did you notice that 13,13,13,13 has basically the same CO idle values as stock 5,18,18,21? THAT was surprising. And did you also notice that BOTH all 13s and all 18s had the same very low 0.03 at 2,500? That was revealing as well, meaning the CO values might only be affecting idle, no? Comments welcome. Or is it possible the cat is cleaning up equally well between those 2 levels??????

Based on the above, I'm leaning towards all 13s, which means the same idle CO values as stock right now, no? For some weird reason seems like all 18s is richer.

Another assumption is if '06s are -10,8,8,11, which is exactly our stock 5,18,18,21 values MINUS 10, it shouldn't be running dangerously lean, I don't think. Unless significant changes were done to the ECU, which is possible. Wish Fred, or somebody with an '06 would test theirs.

This is what I was thinking all along we should have tried; those numbers just didn't make any sense. Reality is we don't know what % error our injectors have, but those numbers just don't make any sense, especially cyl #1.

Might start with +15 across the board to begin with, but I imagine my '07 must be equal to Gary's. Keep us posted what ends up being your 'sweet spot' Gary; curious about it.

Oh, guys, does anybody know how many cats we have? I'm almost sure it's just ONE on the collector, along with just one O2 sensor, no? Thanks.

JC

ELP_JC said:

Hey Gary, VERY interesting buddy.

Did you notice that 13,13,13,13 has basically the same CO idle values as stock 5,18,18,21? THAT was surprising. And did you also notice that BOTH all 13s and all 18s had the same very low 0.03 at 2,500? That was revealing as well, meaning the CO values might only be affecting idle, no? Comments welcome. Or is it possible the cat is cleaning up equally well between those 2 levels??????

<<I've run the bike at both 13's and 18's so far and it feels smoother at either but leaner at 13...the test was on the same machine and the probe was tested for "0" CO in free air between adjustments...for some reason the balanced CO setings gave a lower CO at 2500 rpm's...the Tech felt it was from a more uniform and somehow better F/A ratio on both collector CATS...don't know how that works...but as soon as the CATS ligh off the CO drops...remember that two of my four CATS were removed by installing the Staintune cans (CAT in a can, he he!>>

Based on the above, I'm leaning towards all 13s, which means the same idle CO values as stock right now, no? For some weird reason seems like all 18s is richer.

Another assumption is if '06s are -10,8,8,11, which is exactly our stock 5,18,18,21 values MINUS 10, it shouldn't be running dangerously lean, I don't think. Unless significant changes were done to the ECU, which is possible. Wish Fred, or somebody with an '06 would test theirs.

<<the English fellow UK-keith that reported in post #283 of the "2007 Altiitude Surging Problem" thread had his set at all 8's by his mech and base was -5,8,8,11 for the EU spec bike>>

This is what I was thinking all along we should have tried; those numbers just didn't make any sense. Reality is we don't know what % error our injectors have, but those numbers just don't make any sense, especially cyl #1.

Might start with +15 across the board to begin with, but I imagine my '07 must be equal to Gary's. Keep us posted what ends up being your 'sweet spot' Gary; curious about it.

Oh, guys, does anybody know how many cats we have? I'm almost sure it's just ONE on the collector, along with just one O2 sensor, no? Thanks.

<<four CATs two in the collector after the O2 sensor and one in each stock muffler>>

JC

Click to expand...

Anyone know how to convert CO values to approximate F/A ratios?...another observation was that at 23 for all cyls the Hydrocarbons were 190 and was told 200 was the limit for cars in Fairbanks...it progressively decreased going to the 18 and 13 settings and was ok...one issue that cropped up in testing was as the bike's engine warmed, the fans came on, and the airbox started sucking warm air, the CO values rose so the above readings were taken quickly after startup with a warm engine but not with the fans on...need to bring a fan to the testing center to keep the intake air cool for prolonged testing as the engine was run without shutting down for each test at 65-72F.

Gary in Fairbanks

Hi Guys, been short handed at work this week so won't get a chance to play with settings and results. If you have access to a multimeter or scope that can measure the injection time in milliseconds you could see the direct change on injection time with each change. When I get around to it, I will hook the scope to watch the injector patterns and measure the change with each +1 and +2 adjustment. That way you could see more accurate results than tail pipe readings.

HYCLE said:

Hi Guys, been short handed at work this week so won't get a chance to play with settings and results. If you have access to a multimeter or scope that can measure the injection time in milliseconds you could see the direct change on injection time with each change. When I get around to it, I will hook the scope to watch the injector patterns and measure the change with each +1 and +2 adjustment. That way you could see more accurate results than tail pipe readings.

Click to expand...

Any tests you can do to make the FJR perform better will be appreciated by all...I ran my '07 at +13 and +18 for all cyls tonite 50 miles ea., and all I know is when I went back to the Factory +5,18,18,21 for 30 miles it felt and sounded worse at idle and low rpms...I'm out of ideas on what to do any more so we need someone with the tech experience and equipment to move forward or de-myth the above observations...any input welcomed.

Gary in Fairbanks (Winter in three months)

PA1195 said:

I ran my '07 at +13 and +18 for all cyls tonite 50 miles ea., and all I know is when I went back to the Factory +5,18,18,21 for 30 miles it felt and sounded worse at idle and low rpms...

Click to expand...

Hey Gary, where did you feel your bike ran best: +13 or +18? Where did you leave it at? You didn't mention the differences between those 2. I wonder which one makes the bike surge less if you hold the throttle steady at 2.5K/3.5K rpm in 2nd gear. By the way, this is the 'lean' surge, which many new bikes have; different animal than the altitude surge, which is more severe.

When you reply, I'll set my bike the same and see if I arrive at the same conclusions. I'm curious how much of a difference individual injectors' tolerances make from bike to bike. My guess is unmeasurable.

And yes, instrumented testing with what each CO number is doing would be great. According to Gary's number, it doesn't make sense that idle CO numbers are the same at 5,18,18,21 than 13,13,13,13, but maybe it has something to do with the stupid cat. But the fact the numbers are even on both pipes, and idle sounds better, is an indication that the change to even out the settings was in the right direction. Good day folks.

JC

ELP_JC said:

PA1195 said:

I ran my '07 at +13 and +18 for all cyls tonite 50 miles ea., and all I know is when I went back to the Factory +5,18,18,21 for 30 miles it felt and sounded worse at idle and low rpms...

Click to expand...

Hey Gary, where did you feel your bike ran best: +13 or +18? Where did you leave it at? You didn't mention the differences between those 2. I wonder which one makes the bike surge less if you hold the throttle steady at 2.5K/3.5K rpm in 2nd gear. By the way, this is the 'lean' surge, which many new bikes have; different animal than the altitude surge, which is more severe.

When you reply, I'll set my bike the same and see if I arrive at the same conclusions. I'm curious how much of a difference individual injectors' tolerances make from bike to bike. My guess is unmeasurable.

And yes, instrumented testing with what each CO number is doing would be great. According to Gary's number, it doesn't make sense that idle CO numbers are the same at 5,18,18,21 than 13,13,13,13, but maybe it has something to do with the stupid cat. But the fact the numbers are even on both pipes, and idle sounds better, is an indication that the change to even out the settings was in the right direction. Good day folks.

JC

Click to expand...

Hi JC...+13 and 18 both did acceptably well and my exhaust outlets were clean with both...I'd start at +13. ride a slow speeds where the effect would likely be more noticeable then bump up 3 more, test, etc. on the same route..at your elevation +10 may also be acceptable, I'm only at 450'...look for the best even idle and smooth sound, lack of hesitation moving out with light throttle, putt around like a Harley in a parking lot looking for lost parts, surge/miss at 2500 rpms, then run at cruise and look for changes...+13 should mimic the stock 5,18,18,21 CO values and be safe...if adding or subtracting to the stock values helped then adjust the +13 accordingly...basically I'm into subjective analysis now, am pleased with the uniform values, but we need further input from folks with experience and equipment to verify or de-bunk the changes I made and results I've seen to date...go play and don't forget to reset to factory spec somewhere along the trail to note any differences.

Gary in rainy Fairbanks

Date: 7/7/07 Original test

CO setting: 5 18 18 21 (baseline = unstable idle)

Date: 7/10/07 Second test

CO setting: 18 18 18 18 (baseline = smooth even idle and at 2500 and CO readings stable)

CO setting: 13 13 13 13 (-5 each = smooth at idle and 2500 rpm and readings stable)

Gary, can you please clarify, did you change your setting to be 18 then 13 for all cylinders, or was this the amount your added to the base numbers of 5 18 18 21?

thanks john

fossilrider said:

Date: 7/7/07 Original test CO setting: 5 18 18 21 (baseline = unstable idle)

Date: 7/10/07 Second test

CO setting: 18 18 18 18 (baseline = smooth even idle and at 2500 and CO readings stable)

CO setting: 13 13 13 13 (-5 each = smooth at idle and 2500 rpm and readings stable)

Gary, can you please clarify, did you change your setting to be 18 then 13 for all cylinders, or was this the amount your added to the base numbers of 5 18 18 21?

thanks john

Click to expand...

Hi John...sorry for the confusion, first please read my complete post above for all the tests I tried...I set all cyls to the same positive numbers on the display of +13, +18, +23 (changed by + or - 5 even unit increments each, +18 being the factory's choice for cyls #2 and 3 as you state above, for example)...the auto certified tech probed each exhaust (Staintune slip-on cans w/o Cat convertors that I will remove soon for sale if I also sell the bike) at a running idle and at 2500 rpm...the results are described above...I'm now running +15 for each, +18 also does well and runs a slow speeds smoothly...this is only an experiment and soon someone may probe all four pipes so we will know the exact settings to choose...my next step is to mesure with an IR gun the external temp of each pipe at idle above the crossover to see if it varies much at idle as a means of fine-tuning the settings.

Gary in Fairbanks

just have to inject my 2 cents here,

I had one of the first fjr1300 in S FL, Oct 2002,,, ran hot, surged , boiled the gas,, all that crap......within 500 miles had it serviced under warranty at Riva Yamaha in Ft . Lauderdale,FL....... riv nuts were installed in each header pipe coming out of the head... CO readings where then taken for each cylinder with engine fully warmed up.... all cylinders where extremely lean.. 0.5 to 1.0....... the F/I was then bumped up [from the dash panel] to 3.5 / 4.0 for each cylinder.....

100 % of surge was gone, 90 of heat issues were gone,,, the heat down by your feet was still there, Only till I removed the entire exhaust system, cut open the bottom collector , and removed the two cats in there [ i understand that 07 models also have cats in each exhaust can , too } ... all and any heat issues are now gone.. that was almost 5 yrs ago and 30k miles.....

Here is what I know to be a fact,,,, those # s on the dash readout,, do not really mean a thing, they are just for reference for YOUR BIKE , not someone elses...

you could have 10,17,9,13 and jack have 12, 21 , 17. 6 ,,,,, and they both have the same CO readings for each cylinder.......Understand?.... these are simply reference # s , it is not the amount of anything,,, time , fuel, size of your *****, etc

you guys jacking around with that stupid Barbarian jumper mod, are just FISHING !... without having the bike on a EGA machine, and sniffing each cylinder BEFORE the collector and the cats, is all for NOTHING...

all four exhausts dump into the bottom collector [ remember, i actually cut mine open], before going through the cats, then out either and /or both canisters....

so taking a CO reading from one pipe or the other is foolish,,, the reading is from ALL FOUR CYLINDERS , and it is ****** up by the cats....

do yourselfs a favor, stop ******* things up, ,, because you really don,t know what your doing..... find a quality yamaha dealer, [hint, they will have a dyno and a EGA machine].. and have them adjust the F/I the right way,,, and under warranty too !

out of warranty? can't be bothered with a dealer?... install a Techlusion box for about $170 yourself, and play with it... you will get much better results.. just put your CO #s back to stock,,,, you did write them down before fiddling?