Ignition switch repair

FJRay · Aug 1, 2007

After calling around to find the best price on a switch, I decided to see about fixing the old one. Operating on the idea that it was broken already, I couldn't make it any worse and it needed to come out anyway. Removeing it is easy by lifting the tank and removing the top triple clamp. After you have it on the bench drill out the bolts that hold it to the top clamp and then drill out the small screws that hold the bottom of the switch on. The switch has a hole in the bottom for what reason I don't know but apparently some crap got into it and screwed up the contacts. Once appart it is an easy job to clean up all the contacts and make sure the springs are working to hold the contacts in place. reassemble using screws and loctite. Check function with an ohmeter and reinstall. The whole thing took about an hour and a half. Looking back you don't have to remove the switch from the top clamp but I was assuming it was totaled and had to come out anyway. I also cut the loom and put it back together with male and female connectors so if it fails again it will be easy to connect the wires ahead of the switch and get on the road. I also put a bit of clear silicone over the hole in the switch.

I know pictures would be nice but it is back together and I am to lazy to take it appart again. If you are smart enough to get it out of the bike the rest is a piece of cake.

FjrVfr · Aug 1, 2007

Could that hole in the bottom be there to allow water to drain out?

ionbeam · Aug 1, 2007

[guess] The hole in the bottom of the switch is a drain should water come in though the key opening (with the key out)? [/guess]

Edited: Sorry for the dup reply, I type slow I guess

v65 · Aug 1, 2007

Hey, I think that hole might be for water to drain out. :lol:

My understanding was that the ignition failures on the gen II's involved some actual breakage of parts. I seem to remember that a circuit board had broken, your issue sound different (and good for you).

C&C · Aug 1, 2007

Could you maybe then just spray some contact cleaner in the 'weep' hole, and maybe, not even have to disassemble to clean the contacts.

ionbeam · Aug 1, 2007

Hey, I think that hole might be for water to drain out.

My understanding was that the ignition failures on the gen II's involved some actual breakage of parts. I seem to remember that a circuit board had broken, your issue sound different (and good for you).

Everyone is right. There is more than one problem.

The earlier FJRs ('03s and some '04s) had problems with the contacts of the switch failing.

The Gen IIs have problems with the wires being too tie-wrapped too tight causing 1. the wires to pull out of the switch PCB; #2. or, causing the insulation to chafe resulting in shorts.

mdisher · Aug 1, 2007

I'm keeping an eye on these threads mainly because I don't want to get stuck and if I do get stuck want to know how to hot-wire my bike and or any other Gen II bike I find on the side of the road that wants to become parts for my primary

(kidding of course)

I have gone over mine twice, maybe I don't have a 'Friday FJR'. Switch harness on mine wasn't wire tied brutally tight, and I sure as hell can't see it being pulled from the switch from any tension that I can simulate. It's just not being tugged on in any way.

If it does come off it would have to be a bad solder joint that vibrated loose? Or something else.

Or I'm just not getting what the real problem is...

I'm not saying there isn't a problem, but I can't see it on my bike... (of course now I've jinxed myself and will probably be stranded next time out).

Thumperbike · Aug 1, 2007

I am not even going to look at mine and therefore jinx myself.

Ed_Grant · Aug 1, 2007

Me neither!

madmike2 · Aug 1, 2007

Ray, I'm glad it was an easy and inexpensive fix. Thanks to you and Patty for letting me stay the night and get some needed sleep.

smokeFJR06 · Aug 4, 2007

ionbeam said:
v65 said:

Hey, I think that hole might be for water to drain out. :lol:
My understanding was that the ignition failures on the gen II's involved some actual breakage of parts. I seem to remember that a circuit board had broken, your issue sound different (and good for you).

Click to expand...

Everyone is right. There is more than one problem.

The earlier FJRs ('03s and some '04s) had problems with the contacts of the switch failing.

The Gen IIs have problems with the wires being too tie-wrapped too tight causing 1. the wires to pull out of the switch PCB; #2. or, causing the insulation to chafe resulting in shorts.

Yep, I was in the same boat as you. Loosened the wiring, didn't see any tightness nor any way that the wiring could be stressed. Guess what happened to me just this evening. DANG IT! Beware, that's all I can say.

FJRay · Aug 4, 2007

I don't know anything about the Gen2 units but there is 4 wires on the 03 switch. If you get stuck, somehow connect the 2 large wires to each other and the same with the 2 small ones and you will be on your way. After mine failed I put the connectors in to bail myself out in the future if it fails again or if I lose all the keys.

Powerman · Aug 4, 2007

This stuff is starting to bother the anal engineer side of me, I'm an over design kind of guy. I loosened the wires after I first heard of it. I went to the office supply store and made large color copies of the electrical diagrams to put in a large ziplock under the seat. Soon I will tackle the steering bearings and replace the ignition switch anti-tamper screws. Maybe some preventative maintenance to spray some cleaner into the keyhole. Does it get to the guts that way?

I guess I could make up a jumper wire for emergency repair.

Murphy's law says if you're prepared it will never happen??? When the hurricane came one time my chainsaw was broke. I told my wife I had a bad feeling and went and bought a new one. Eight trees fell in my next door neighbors, none in mine!

One year on the way to Daytona I fixed a Harley guy's kill switch on I-95 in SC. He had a manual in is tail trunk, and I had a baby multimeter on my ST1100. Took my cigar torch lighter and heated up a nail to solder the wire back on. I always try to help as it is good Karma. Maybe it will balance out when I do something mean.

dcarver · Aug 4, 2007

FJRay said:
I don't know anything about the Gen2 units but there is 4 wires on the 03 switch. If you get stuck, somehow connect the 2 large wires to each other and the same with the 2 small ones and you will be on your way. After mine failed I put the connectors in to bail myself out in the future if it fails again or if I lose all the keys.

Gunny!

cota95 · Aug 8, 2007

When my 06 ignition switch quit in NC (from Rhode Island), the local Yamaha shop got me going by installing a Honda atv ignition switch along side the stock switch. When my replacement switch came in (3 weeks later! :blink: ) I asked the tech for the switch and the wires to break into. I now carry the Honda switch and instructions under the seat.

mdisher · Aug 8, 2007

cota95 said:
When my 06 ignition switch quit in NC (from Rhode Island), the local Yamaha shop got me going by installing a Honda atv ignition switch along side the stock switch. When my replacement switch came in (3 weeks later! :blink: ) I asked the tech for the switch and the wires to break into. I now carry the Honda switch and instructions under the seat.

That's awesome...

Any chance you can make a copy of those instructions and post it?

Do we already have clear cut instructions for bypassing or 'hot-wiring' the 06 bikes in the event we need to do that?

I'd love to have that info handy in case.

-MD

weekend rider · Aug 27, 2007

Why doesn"t J D Power and associates report such poor workmanship about the Japanese bikes ???

festar · May 4, 2016

FJRay said:
After calling around to find the best price on a switch, I decided to see about fixing the old one. Operating on the idea that it was broken already, I couldn't make it any worse and it needed to come out anyway. Removeing it is easy by lifting the tank and removing the top triple clamp. After you have it on the bench drill out the bolts that hold it to the top clamp and then drill out the small screws that hold the bottom of the switch on. The switch has a hole in the bottom for what reason I don't know but apparently some crap got into it and screwed up the contacts. Once appart it is an easy job to clean up all the contacts and make sure the springs are working to hold the contacts in place. reassemble using screws and loctite. Check function with an ohmeter and reinstall. The whole thing took about an hour and a half. Looking back you don't have to remove the switch from the top clamp but I was assuming it was totaled and had to come out anyway. I also cut the loom and put it back together with male and female connectors so if it fails again it will be easy to connect the wires ahead of the switch and get on the road. I also put a bit of clear silicone over the hole in the switch.I know pictures would be nice but it is back together and I am to lazy to take it appart again. If you are smart enough to get it out of the bike the rest is a piece of cake. [img=[URL="https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif%5D"]https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif][/URL]

Ray,

It so happens I have this issue now on my '06. Hope mine is as easy to I'd as your '03.

Festar

harper · May 6, 2016

Did yours qualify for the replacement ignition switch recall? Mine is an 06 and, as third (or more) owner, I just checked the VIN lookup recall website a month ago. https://vinrcl.safercar.gov/vin/ Yamaha installed a new ignition switch and sub harness. Maybe you did this years ago.

Ignition switch repair

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Which side is the brake on?

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