Ari Rankum
NAFO Karting Champion, 2012
I just finished the 600 mile throttle body synch (TBS) on the 2006 FJR. I used Warchild's most excellent photo-illustrated guide at www.fjrtech.com as far as I could. I also used his guide to do my 2005 FJR, and the guide made doing the TBS a piece of cake. For the 2006, the procedure has a slightly higher PITA factor. I'll post pics later if any of them are any good.
The first difference is that it's no longer possible to merely prop the front of the tank. Because of the fancy adjustable seat, it's now necessary to remove the rear king pin, instead of just loosening it. There are also two of those annoying plastic pop rivets to remove at the rear. Once the king pin is removed, you can slide the tank back a bit so that it pivots behind the seat height adjuster.
Once the tank is propped up, you'll notice that someone stole your throttle bodies and injectors! Actually, everything is under what looks like the biggest damn batch of Jiffy-Pop Popcorn ever. It seems Yamaha has adopted the heat shielding ideas that many prior FJR farklers figured out on their own. The heat shield is under the T-Bar, so, here's another change to the Warchild TBS procedure - the T-Bar now has to come off. Once it's off, there's one of those plastic pop rivets at the rear to remove. Unfortunately, Yamaha routed the gas-tank electronics through the heat shield instead of around it. So you've got to remove the electronics in order to get the heat shield out of the way. (You can do the TBS without removing the heat shield by just supporting it out of the way under the tank. Note that this is a temporary time savings that only lasts until you drop the Number 2 intake nipple, at which time you'll need to remove the shield in order to try to find it).
Once the tank, T-Bar, and heat shield are out of the way, you'll find things are pretty much where they were for 2003-2005. The only difference I think I noticed is that the #2 nipple is a real PITA to get to. I dropped the nipple on removal. It landed on the bottom of the intake manifold. When I went in with ultra-sticky tape attached to a piece of coat hanger, I knocked it down to the top of the crank case. When I tried to get the nipple off of there using the same technique, it fell on the ground. Total time chasing down the nipple: about 15 minutes.
My initial readings showed the bike was out of spec. I ended up turning the #1 screw all the way in and still couldn't reach 250mm. I got it to 240mm, and then backed each of the other screws out to drop them to 240mm, figuring that equal pressure was more important than getting them all to 250mm.
On the button up, getting the nipples back on is considerably easier than taking them off. I left the pinch clamps in place and simply pushed the nipples down over the tubes, making sure the pinch clamps ended up snug at the bottom of the nipple. When you put the tank back in place, make sure you thread the two allen screws at the top of the tank before you replace the king pin.
While the 2006 has not been particularly buzzy, the TBS did smooth it out a bit.
Pics added here:
https://www.bikenorthamerica.com/reeky/fjravl.html#tbs
The first difference is that it's no longer possible to merely prop the front of the tank. Because of the fancy adjustable seat, it's now necessary to remove the rear king pin, instead of just loosening it. There are also two of those annoying plastic pop rivets to remove at the rear. Once the king pin is removed, you can slide the tank back a bit so that it pivots behind the seat height adjuster.
Once the tank is propped up, you'll notice that someone stole your throttle bodies and injectors! Actually, everything is under what looks like the biggest damn batch of Jiffy-Pop Popcorn ever. It seems Yamaha has adopted the heat shielding ideas that many prior FJR farklers figured out on their own. The heat shield is under the T-Bar, so, here's another change to the Warchild TBS procedure - the T-Bar now has to come off. Once it's off, there's one of those plastic pop rivets at the rear to remove. Unfortunately, Yamaha routed the gas-tank electronics through the heat shield instead of around it. So you've got to remove the electronics in order to get the heat shield out of the way. (You can do the TBS without removing the heat shield by just supporting it out of the way under the tank. Note that this is a temporary time savings that only lasts until you drop the Number 2 intake nipple, at which time you'll need to remove the shield in order to try to find it).
Once the tank, T-Bar, and heat shield are out of the way, you'll find things are pretty much where they were for 2003-2005. The only difference I think I noticed is that the #2 nipple is a real PITA to get to. I dropped the nipple on removal. It landed on the bottom of the intake manifold. When I went in with ultra-sticky tape attached to a piece of coat hanger, I knocked it down to the top of the crank case. When I tried to get the nipple off of there using the same technique, it fell on the ground. Total time chasing down the nipple: about 15 minutes.
My initial readings showed the bike was out of spec. I ended up turning the #1 screw all the way in and still couldn't reach 250mm. I got it to 240mm, and then backed each of the other screws out to drop them to 240mm, figuring that equal pressure was more important than getting them all to 250mm.
On the button up, getting the nipples back on is considerably easier than taking them off. I left the pinch clamps in place and simply pushed the nipples down over the tubes, making sure the pinch clamps ended up snug at the bottom of the nipple. When you put the tank back in place, make sure you thread the two allen screws at the top of the tank before you replace the king pin.
While the 2006 has not been particularly buzzy, the TBS did smooth it out a bit.
Pics added here:
https://www.bikenorthamerica.com/reeky/fjravl.html#tbs
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