Risers

OK. am not that familar with the "risers" that are used on the FJR. I assume they are blocks that fit under the base of where the entire handlebar asssembly bolts to the upper tree. The 06 has "adjustable" bars that have diffrent bolts that do this, allowing the bar to be moved forward or back, but not up.

So I was thinking, why couldn't you just make a bar and clamp that bolts to the top of the exsisting bar, moving all the controls to the new bar and simply cutting off the end of the old one?

See bad drawings here:

https://tinyurl.com/nk6px

This would allow you to not only raise the bar up, but move it forward or back some too. AND , still retain the adjustability of the 2006 bars. It would of course make the bars a bit wider, do to the width of the clamp part, but this may not be a bad thing.

I do not have the means to produce these, but if anyone wishes to use this idea let me know...

Knifemaker

It would work but the main advantage, other than looks, that riser blocks have is that you don't have to destroy your handlebars in order to try them. Risers often just make things worse (they did for me) and you can just take them back off, no harm done. You could conceivably make your gizmo indexable to adjust pullback angle and even rotate them to make them lower your bars. But again, you have to destroy your bars. A far better alternative IMHO: Shameless Plug

Evil; I ordered a set of these after I talked to you a couple weeks ago. Cant wait to try them, Scott said they should be ready soon. Thanks for the tip. Bete.

bete said:

Evil; I ordered a set of these after I talked to you a couple weeks ago. Cant wait to try them, Scott said they should be ready soon. Thanks for the tip. Bete.

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If you like 'em half as much as I like mine it should be an improvement over stock

Mine are set somewhere in the neighborhood of 4" wider than stock most of the time and the increased turning radius took some getting used to as far as handling goes. But last weekend I did some playing in the twisties and it suddenly dawned on me: With a twist of 2 allen screws I can set the width over 1" narrower than stock. Takes all of about 60 seconds. Combine that with being lower and more forward and it handles wicked fast. Two totally different bikes in one great looking package :good:

I like the idea. One suggestion: As an added bit of adjustment, add an eccentric cam to the new bar. Then when installed into the block you would have yet more adjustment.

I would guess how ugly the thing was depended on how well it was made, but I must point out that you do not "need" to destroy the stock bars, as long as they do not interfere with the controls. You could mount it and see if it works for you, and if you deem it a good thing, you could then cut off the round section of the stock bar. Depending on the distance between the two holes in the clamp, you could raise the bars from 2" to even 4-5" (obviously you would be limited by cable lengths)

The advantage is it could work with any handlebar really, going on the assumtion that the handlear is the same diameter.

This of course is just a concept idea, and adding more stuff to it like eccentric cams to change the pitch of the bars would only complicate the design. It would be fairly easy to build the same pinch bolt type clamping system to the upper bar that you would be moving the controls to.

This clamp could also be tapped to accept RAM ball mounts. You could also drill the holes through the clamps on diffrent axis lines, allowing one to change the angle some by simply switching the clamps left to right.

Destroying the stock bar would only be an option if the bar works out to ones needs. It would of course look odd to have another bar sticking out right below the grips. But after seeing those folks that have GPS's, radar detectors, XM radios, etc mounted up to the cockpit, it be more of a question as to what lookd weird to you....lol

KM

Knifemaker said:

Destroying the stock bar would only be an option if the bar works out to ones needs. It would of course look odd to have another bar sticking out right below the grips.

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:blink:

How much offset does your design allow for? I fail to see how the stock bar WOULDN'T interfere.

slapnpop said:

Knifemaker said:

Destroying the stock bar would only be an option if the bar works out to ones needs. It would of course look odd to have another bar sticking out right below the grips.

Click to expand...

:blink:

How much offset does your design allow for? I fail to see how the stock bar WOULDN'T interfere.

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Well you would need the two handle bar holes to be at least 2-1/2 inches apart. If you wish to not only raise the bar but move it back also, you'd likely want the holes spaced out a bit more.. If the bar was moved back so far that the brake and clutch lever would get in the way, I can see your point here.

But if you want to see for yourself, go out to your bike, grab hold of a grip, and hold a tube or something simular right underneath the bar, mimicing the location of the "stock" bar under the grip and switch assemblies. ..2-1/2 inches seems about the minimum.

KM

Need some quick help here, if you folks would be

so kind...

I just picked up some D & D risers, but the

instructions want me to take the handlebars

off.

In order to do that, I need to take all the stuff

off the bars, according to the service manual...do I

really have to do that, or can I leave the stuff on and

just set the bars on the tank or something?

My SuperBrace is going on as well.

Thanks for any help...

Jim

No need to strip the bars. With 2" masking tape, mask both top sides of the fairing, and down 1 strip over the edge both sides. Towels work too-I do both. Unbolt the bars and just rest them on each side-the master cylinders won't leak. You may have to do a little cable bracket adjusting to allow for reduced slack, but thats about it. Throttle cable may also need slight adjustment.

radman said:

No need to strip the bars. With 2" masking tape, mask both top sides of the fairing, and down 1 strip over the edge both sides. Towels work too-I do both. Unbolt the bars and just rest them on each side-the master cylinders won't leak. You may have to do a little cable bracket adjusting to allow for reduced slack, but thats about it. Throttle cable may also need slight adjustment.

Click to expand...

Or have someone hold them for you....