R1 shift lever mod

My quest to improve the shifitng of my 2005 FJR started with this thread.

Issues shifting 2nd-3rd - too much freeplay, Is it the new boots, is it just me, something wrong?

I got lot's of great advice:

-Adjust shift pedal, which I did per the page below (page 3-57, 3-58 of the service manual)

(Great improvement by the way)



-Others said to get the R1 shift arm

-I did, which brings me to this thread...

I am not sure if I have the correct part. I seem to have alignment issues with the shift rod If I install it the way that it looks like it should go.

I ordered the part number that radman listed 5JJ-18112-00 from Gary McCoy for $30 shipped



Here is a picture of the stock shift arm, next to the R1 shift arm (stock outlined in red)



Which way does the R1 shift arm mount?

If I put in on similar to the stock shift arm the bend in the arm places it at an angle which causes the shift rod to ride along the bracket shown in the picture below



If I turn the R1 shift arm around the other way, it appears to be backwards.

I am not sure if I am supposed to attach the allen head screw (under the dust cover) from behind and then attatch the other end of the shift arm to the shift gear shaft?



I would greatly appreciate some help from those that have done this mod.

Thanks,

Rob

Sorry, I think it's past Radman's bedtime. I had saved a link to the old thread, but it's dorked since the hack job. Search no help either. You're probably screwed for tonight.

Can't remember exactly which way the new arm was mounted but it really wasn't too big of a deal (not trying to be dismissive) I just mounted it whatever way made it able to make the full swing without causing the shift rod or anything else to hit anything solid.

From the look of the picture you have some adjustment that needs to be made since the groove on the shift pedal is too high in relation to the bumps on the frame (technical enough for you?) I didn't make any adjustments to the shift rod and instead just held the shift pedal in the right position as I pushed the shift arm onto the shaft. There are plenty of teeth on that rod to allow fine tuning that way.

Hope this is helpful. I will check back tomorrow after I've had a chance to look at my FJR. If I have anything more to add then I will. Good luck.

Mark

P.S. Too bad you didn't have this problem about 7 days ago. I just move from San Diego to Everett, WA last week. Could have ridden over to give you a first hand look.

A picture is worth a thousand words....I hope!

Bike Effects gets a kewpie doll. Mounted so that it appears inside out-that is, with the rod connection angling out, and then the rod mounted to the inside, reduces the tendency for the shift action to want to flex the shift shaft rather than turning it. While you're at it, disassemble the shifter pivot on the plate, clean, and lube, and you will end up with a very, very nice shift feel and action. For clearance between rod and bracket, just pull the new arm out slightly while tightening the clamp bolt-it doesn't move in or out while shifting, so just a bit of clearance will do fine.

You can't go wrong as the arm with go on and work either way.

jim

Grumpy said:

You can't go wrong as the arm with go on and work either way.jim

Click to expand...

True, but why not do the install so as to gain the maximum benefit from the conversion? There is a difference in the action if one takes the time to clean, lube, and align as perfectly as possible.

I was pretty close to installing it just like the picture in Bike effects post.

When I had it fitted up like that, having the dust/dirt cover on the inside, didn't seem quite right.

Putting it on the other way made the shift rod just too close to the bracket for my taste.

But since I was planning on taking a 200 mile ride later that day I figured I would play it safe and ask here.

I will clean it up, lube & align it when I get home from work.

Thanks,

Rob

Thanks for showing how to adjust the shift lever! I didn't know how to do it and after seeing this went to the garage and moved it in 5 minutes.

Thanks again, :clapping:

I didn't know the answer, but you get some kind of prize for the most awesome pictures and description of what you were looking for. You da man!

I guess I have been running mine for the past year the "wrong" way.

I like the "backwards" or "inside-out" way. I'm going to swap mine around and give it a try that way. Dunno why my feeble little mind didn't think of doing it that way. :dribble:

Thanks again for the post! I agree with someones tag-line... THIS POST IS MEANINGLESS WITHOUT PICTURES! Thank goodness for picys! :clapping:

Well I finished the install and taking radman's advice I decided to clean and lube all of the shift mechanism pivot points to get it setup as smooth as I could. Since I started out with some good pictures, I figured I would finish out the job with a good documentation.

As you can see it was pretty dirty with only 10,000 miles.



Taking off this part allowed me to clean all of the dirt and grime off of the u-joints for the drive shaft, clean and lube the side stand and side stand cutoff switch while I was at it.

There are 5 bolts holding the above piece and side stand on



Much cleaner after a little simple green



Pivot points for shift lever previously covered in dirt (small trace of old dirt/grease)



Goes back together in this order if you forget. (I like to document my disassembly with pictures just in case the reassembly doesn't happen as planned, i.e. same day)



All back together and lubed with some Mobile 1



Final assembly with the R1 shift arm.

I have plenty of clearance with the bracket and shift rod, even with the new shift arm aligned flush with the end of the splined shaft. Also notice the punch alignment mark on the splined shaft goes right in the center split of the new shift arm. Not sure how much of a difference the alignment of the punch mark would make, the service manual lists this during reassembly so I figured I would point it out.



Took it out for a quick 10 mile test run. Nice and smooth!

Thanks for all the help and advice guys, hopefully this post makes it easier for the next guy.

I believe the bottom line is as long as the shift rod is straight (parallel) there should be no issue....

What does the R1 mod do for the bike?

pawtracks, When U lubed the shift leaver pivot bolt, did U snug it all the way down? When I lubed mine, I noticed that the bolt was installed too tight & had completely compressed the wave washer & the leaver was binding. I used blue thread locker & only slightly compressed the wave washer & no binding of the shift leaver. What a difference it made. It shifts as smooth as butter w/stock leaver. Later,,, De

Odd.... Mine shifts fine. I squeeze the clutch lever with my left hand and right after that I tap the gear shifter with my left foot to which ever up or down gear I want. What size boots you guys wearing? Maybe that could be the problem. Too small? Get a "krusty the klown" boot. Too big? Tell me...what do you use your toes for....other then pleasuring your woman? Get rid of them useless digits....of course, then you wouldn't increase your farkle count on your scoot.

I do have to say, though....those are very nice pics...all sharp and clean and what not....

tyronewildman said:

pawtracks, When U lubed the shift leaver pivot bolt, did U snug it all the way down? When I lubed mine, I noticed that the bolt was installed too tight & had completely compressed the wave washer & the leaver was binding. I used blue thread locker & only slightly compressed the wave washer & no binding of the shift leaver. What a difference it made. It shifts as smooth as butter w/stock leaver. Later,,, De

Click to expand...

It was in there pretty tight when I took it apart. I cleaned up the threads a little with a wire brush, a tap and my shopvac to get rid of the old crusty threadlock and applied some new permatex blue threadlock. I might have tightened it a little less when going back together, hard to tell. It is nice and smooth though, good tip!

FatNakedGuy said:

What does the R1 mod do for the bike?

Click to expand...

It shortens the throw on the shift pedal.

My improvement was a combination of three things:

-R1 shift arm (shorter throw)

-Clean & lube to smooth it out while getting a nice straight alignment of the shift rod

-Shift pedal alignment (Adjust the pedal <see top post> to fit what feels best for you)

Nice pics, looks like a good job. My pivot bolt is all the way in, and no prob with the wave washer or binding, either the washer between the lever and plate is mis-located, or I don't know, you shouldn't have to have the bolt loose in there.

Took me about 5 minutes to swap mine around the "correct" way (with the arm parallel and behind the R1 lever). I'll do a full-clean-up and lube along with my new tires. The dealer is installing the new rubber (rims off the bike) and I need to do the spline & U-joint lube at the same time. This should be in the next week or two. I noticed NO difference when I flipped it to the backside, but I didn't expect any. I DO like the way the bar alignment is and the look is cleaner too.