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jestal

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Here's my bracket for my xM radio. Should have stuck it in the holder but forgot... The bracket sandwiches under the handle bar mount. Polished the aluminum after fabbing with a scotchbrite pad and clear lacquer coat:

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The mount on top is for the V1. Just sticks with industrial velcro. That mount is more .030 alum curved over my knee to fit the top of the cowl behind the windshield, bent flat for the V1 and attached with two sided tape.

Anyone notice MY high-tech NAV system...???....LOL I can't see to read a NAV system without glasses so about all I need is a compass to see generally which way I am going.

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The antenae lead is coiled behind the bracket and the antenae sits on top of the brake master cylinder cover.

A Russel seat works great with the Smuggler:

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Here's my version of the AudioVox cruise switch mount. Uses the vacant mirror mount hole. Mount is made of .030 alum bent into a little flat box with the awning over the switch. Keeps most all of the water off in the rain.

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Ever seen an FJR before? Here's mine after a winter of farkling:

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Looking good Jestel, I like the home fabbed mounts on bikes better than store bought bolt ons. The XM mount is interesting may have to copy that someday :D

Also notice a 04 glovebox on a 03 ?

and the front mud flap is the first I've seen on a FJR !

 
Very nice indeed!

I recognise the outside temperature gauge - I believe it is the fishtank special with the remote probe.

Question: where did you locate the probe? I initially tried in the nacelle over the front tire - not bad with some creep up at idle - then in the right fairing up high - no good - reads high.

 
jestal....may I say you've done a really nice job on everything (yes, definitely farkle envy here) :D ....now I only have to figure out how to get you up here next winter to help with mine.... :)

 
Hey, thanks. I was just beside myself learning how to post pictures. Too busy farkling to do it during the process.

Yes, it is the fish tank special temp readout. Just after the last discussion of the outside temperature my Harbor Freight special died (the switch broke actually from my ham handedness) so I bought the fish tank version. Smaller and neater looking. I put the probe under the front lip of the fairing so it is out of the direct sunlight but exposed to ambient air flow when moving. No way to avoid the temp creep when moving slow or iding. The OAT sensors on cars have the same problem but there is software in the systems to cap the temperature when moving slowly or idling so the OAT doesn't constantly cycle up and down in stop and go driving.

I got the glovebox parts and installed on my 03. As small as it is I kind of wish I hadn't bothered but at least I can keep my wallet handy.

The front flap is flat rubber so it can bend easily. Really keeps things from getting sandblasted. It has to almost touch the ground if you add that so that the end doesn't hang up on the lip of the fairing when the suspension fully compresses. Caught that in the garage but it might be more inconvient if it happened on the road and the flap doubled up on a big bump.

 
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I count at least 4 switches on the black panels in front of the gas tank.. are those all aux. lighting related? Now that I look at this and your "wing" thread, there also seem to be all kinds of buttons on the upper fairing surface near your knees... what are those?

 
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I especially like the mouse on the master cyl. Nice touch. +1 on the compass too.

 
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Didn't even notice the "mouse" on the master cylinder. LOL It's actually my xM antenae. I polished the tops of the mastercylinders to remove the script so that velcro will stick. The antenae is just velcro'ed on. The "mouse cord" is actually the power feed for the V1 that is not connected and hanging in the breeze for the moment. I swap my V1 from the car so it isn't on the bike all the time.

The exhaust is actually a HoleShot header with StainTune cans. I already had the cans and they fit the HoleShot pipe fine since the StainTunes use the stock exhaust gasket/seal. Pitch the seal and they match the HoleShot pipe size perfectly. The Staintunes are a little quieter than the HoleShot cans from what I have heard and I like the fact that the Staintunes have the insert that is very easy to stick in that knocks the noise level down even further. I stick the inserts in the cans when I am running it in the garage to set the throttle bodies and stuff to keep the neighbors a little happier as it knocks the bark down considerably when you rev the engine.

LS switch is for the aux lights. Push forward on the toggle switch and the lights are on full time, pull back on the toggle and they come on with the brights. LED indicates the lights are on only when they are actually on. The other switch on the LS is a momentary on pushbutton for the solenoid on the glovebox. I didn't want the govebox solenoid on all the time the key was on so I put it on the separate switch. I can still open it with one hand while riding if need be and the solenoid is not always on (drawing a small amount of current) with the switch in there.

RS switches are garage doors. Just hardwired the switches to the garage door opener circuit board and enclosed the board in a plastic box glued to the backside of the fairing.

The only bit of compromise on the xM mount is that the gas tank will not cleanly pivot upward by only taking out the front bolts. It will still pivot up but you have to pull the rear bolt out also and maneuver the front of the tank around the mount for the first part of the travel upward. Not a big deal as the rear mount will sit in the little saddles machined in the rear mount without the bolt. Just makes it a little more inconvenient. Couldn't get the mount styled like that to clear the front tank mount completely.

 
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I noticed the longer rear fender. What did you do there? Do you have a better picture of that end?

thanks

I like some of your ideas.

 
I noticed the longer rear fender. What did you do there? Do you have a better picture of that end?
thanks

I like some of your ideas.
Great job on the farkles. Very clean installs. Enjoy it!

 
I noticed the longer rear fender. What did you do there? Do you have a better picture of that end?
thanks

I like some of your ideas.


So far the rear fender extension is a piece of black rubber folded to match the contour of the fender with a piece of aluminum strip down the middle for stiffness. I was basically trying to decide on length before I fabbed up a more permanent extension out of plastic or aluminum. I found that the rear tire just slings all sorts of crap in the rain so the rear fender had to get longer. A plain rubber flap was too flimsy and got sucked up onto the rear tire all the time hence the aluminum strip to stiffen it. Consider it a work in process.

It's still clean from being dissassembled all winter and worked on.....LOL. It was pretty nasty when I started in on it in December.

 
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