Rear Wheel Removal on 2007 FJR

I've looked at the page for rear wheel removal on https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.html

Are the procedures the same for the 2007 model? Specifically for removing the bolt/nut for the brake torque arm. It seems like it would take a special allen wrench to fit that bolt.

I can't get a standard allen wrench to fit on that bolt. The bracket for the passenger foot peg and the swingarm seem to be in the way of getting a socket to fit on that bolt.

Or should I just be removing the lower bolt/nut on the brake torque arm?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ralph

rtsangelo said:

I've looked at the page for rear wheel removal on https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.html
Are the procedures the same for the 2007 model? Specifically for removing the bolt/nut for the brake torque arm. It seems like it would take a special allen wrench to fit that bolt.

I can't get a standard allen wrench to fit on that bolt. The bracket for the passenger foot peg and the swingarm seem to be in the way of getting a socket to fit on that bolt.

Or should I just be removing the lower bolt/nut on the brake torque arm?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ralph

Click to expand...

I use a long allen wrench and fit it between the brake line and the swingarm. It's a tight squeeze but it works.

rtsangelo said:

I've looked at the page for rear wheel removal on https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.html
Are the procedures the same for the 2007 model?

Click to expand...

Yes, it should apply.

If you use a 6mm allen socket like the one pictured it will work. I guess don't consider them that special as I use them for tons of other things and bought a kit from Sears. Here's a set for about $30

I have a set like Ignacio shows in his link. I also have a set that are "longer" from the socket to the tip of the allen. In some places, the longer set really comes in handy.

I have a set like Ignacio shows in his link. I also have a set that are "longer" from the socket to the tip of the allen. In some places, the longer set really comes in handy.

I also have a set of the "T"_handled allens (IIRC, from CycleGear?!?). If you are going to do much service work on your FJR, you might as well start collecting the tools for the job.

FWIW-- I use the little L shaped allen on the bolt, and put a socket on a long extension on the nut from the left side.

Twisting the wrench causes the allen to flip over until the long part is stopped by the swing arm. Then I get the nut off, wiggle the allen and out comes the bolt. The reverse puts it on by flipping the allen over, and torquing is a breeze.

I never could get my standard allen socket to fit, and I am too frugal to buy the nice tools.. This is simple, but it works form me.

B)

zzzzip said:

FWIW-- I use the little L shaped allen on the bolt, and put a socket on a long extension on the nut from the left side.
Twisting the wrench causes the allen to flip over until the long part is stopped by the swing arm. Then I get the nut off, wiggle the allen and out comes the bolt. The reverse puts it on by flipping the allen over, and torquing is a breeze.

I never could get my standard allen socket to fit, and I am too frugal to buy the nice tools.. This is simple, but it works form me.

B)

Click to expand...

I used a ratcheted wrench on the nut instead. Works just as well.

You might want to remove the brake-line clamp (which is two or three inches in front of the toque arm bolt) it lets you move the brake hoses out of the way.

When reassembling, don't tighten the pinch bolt until after you have torqued the axel nut-otherwise you will draw the swingarm leg inwards. The pinch bolt is to hold the swingarm in position- not to hold the axel while being torqued!

The L shaped allen & small ratchet w/socket works, if you don't use the extension on the socket, you can hold the allen & ratchet the nut off.

One additional step in rear wheel removal for 2007 model may include removing the clamp for the brake line.

From the photos I've seen on this board, the brake line is routed differently on the 2007 model thus requiring the clamp to be removed.



Ralph

I resurrected this old thread so I did not need to start a new one.

This was my 3rd set of tires I have put on my FJR, and every time I forget something useful.

This is my way of removing and installing the rear tire, but there are many other ways that also work great, so please be gentle.

1. Loosen, but do not remove the rear brake bracket upper mounting nut. No need to mess with the lower mounting nut unless you are having a problem.

2. Leave the axle pinch bolt tight, and loosen the axle nut.

3. Loosen the axle pinch bolt.

4. The rest is text book.

That is it for removal, now for installation.

1. Place the rear wheel on the drive shaft spline. It will not fit good and wiggle around.

2. Temporarily slide on the axle from the left side of the bike about half way in (normally installs from the right side).

3. Wiggle the rear rim until the rim seats on the spline.

4. If required, install a piece of wood under the rear wheel to keep the wheel in place when you remove the axle.

5. Snug, but do not tighten the rear brake bracket nut(s) so the bracket will move, but will remain where you place it.

6. Slide the ABS sensor plate on the rear wheel.

7. Widen the rear brake pads and position the rear brake caliper on the rear brake disc (remember the caliper should stay in place since the bracket nuts are snug).

8. Remove the axle from the left side and reinstall it on the right side making sure the washer is between the brake caliper and the swing arm.

9. Install the washer and the axle nut as tight as you can (it will spin on the other end).

10. Tighten the axle pinch bolt.

11. Tighten the axle nut to final torque.

12. Tighten the brake mount nuts.

For the front, my only trick is to jack up the front by placing a piece of wood and a jack under the header. I also remove the front fender and remove the 4 brake bolts and slide the brakes off the disc.

I do not remove the ABS sensor allen screw, but I always forget to tip the wheel at about a 45 degree angle to get the ABS plate off. The rest is text book.

I am writing this in the hopes it will help somebody else and so I can do a search later to refresh my old memory.

Thanks for the info.

My bike is about ready for new tires and since it is the first time for me I am studying up on the procedure.

The few bullets in the Service Manual was disappointing. No description or diagrams.

I will just follow the description of fjr1300.info and the posts above and see how it goes

If you can wait till our Tech Meet on 5/10 bring tires or ship them to Bryans and we can change them out then.

Thanks Marcus. That would have been great but I have a job interview in San Jose on the 6th and I am planning to bike down there.

The tires are done at 10k miles so I need to do it before the end of next week.

Step #1: Take your cell phone and get a close up pic of either side of the axle before you start wrenching

Spud said:

Step #1: Take your cell phone and get a close up pic of either both sides of the axle before you start wrenching

Click to expand...

Fixed it for you! ( I think that is what you meant)

Intech said:

Intech said:

Spud said:

Step #1: Take your cell phone and get a close up pic of either both sides of the axle before you start wrenching

Click to expand...

Fixed it for you! ( I think that is what you meant)

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Particularly the position of the spacer relative to the brake caliper. It's often reassembled incorrectly.

And put a 1/2 inch board under your center stand to give you a little more clearance below the fender to get the wheel out.

rtsangelo said:

I've looked at the page for rear wheel removal on https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/rearwheel.html
Are the procedures the same for the 2007 model? Specifically for removing the bolt/nut for the brake torque arm. It seems like it would take a special allen wrench to fit that bolt.

I can't get a standard allen wrench to fit on that bolt. The bracket for the passenger foot peg and the swingarm seem to be in the way of getting a socket to fit on that bolt.

Or should I just be removing the lower bolt/nut on the brake torque arm?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ralph

Click to expand...

I just use a standard metric allen on may '07. Butt one trick GillaFunk showed me, iz ta remove everythang. I undo the foot peg assembly, (two mor allens) and hang it outta the way. Undo the thang hold'in the brake 'n ABS lines, 'n git that outta the way, then it's all easy-peasy.

Thanks for all the pointers!

I will do a trip to Harbor Freight today to get the tools I need and might do a dry run.