Guide to Removing the Air Induction System

Hello Everyone.

First lets get the disclaimer out of the way... This is the way I chose to remove my Air Induction System on my 07A FJR1300 and I figured I would share it with those of you looking for some guidance on this and/or haven't done it yet. I know there are plenty of ways to skin a cat. This is how I chose to do mine very cheaply. I am sure it can be done many other ways. This cost me less than $7 dollars to do.

Lets get started...

1) Raise your gas tank, remove your T bar and heat shield..If you aren't familiar with this.. Please refer to Rickster's most excellent post regarding this:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?sh...c=18322&hl=



2) Here is the Air induction System. You will be removing all the hoses, clamps that go to the top pf the engine (arrows in red) and the hose and clamp to the air box (arrow in green). The second picture is of where the hose going to the air box attachés to it (using a slightly larger clamp than the others).





3) Now disconnect the electrical plug that connects to the "smog valve".



4) After you remove all the stuff, this is what your left with above the engine.

Cleans it up nice for those Throttle Body Sync's.



5) This is what you have removed.



6) I bought a 2 foot piece of 1/2 inch automotive hose and five 1/2 inch irrigation plugs.. These are self tapping plugs no clamp needed.

BUT.. You need some elbow grease and a little soap to muscle them in. I cut 5 pieces of hose 2 1/2 inches long. Inserted the

plugs with a little soap. Re-used some of the clamps to secure them to the engine and air box. (Note).. All the clamps are the same size except

for the one that attachés to the air box (its a bit larger). Make sure to use the appropriate air box clamp.





7) Here are all five of my hose's plugged and all ready to get installed.



8) Here they are again all installed!



I would do a TBS sync at this point. It should be noted that I had sync'd mine yesterday (very accurately) prior to deciding to remove the Air Induction System. Out of Curiosity.. I decide to re-check them because I did change the air box pressure/vacuum by capping off the system to the air box... Glad I did!! All the cylinders had changed... Especially Cylinders #1 and #4!!

ALL DONE!! NOW I CAN TUNE MY BIKE ACCURATELY WITH TRUE AFR'S!! AND NO MORE POPPING ON DECEL WITH A MODDED BIKE TOO BOOT!!

Hope this helps out,

Wicked Webby

Exceptionally nice write-up! This is FJRTech material, without a doubt!

For those of you concerned about any adverse affects from doing this... there aren't any.

Warchild said:

Exceptionally nice write-up. This is FJRTech material, without a doubt!

Click to expand...

Thanks Warchild!! Feel free to use it!!

WW

I've got a stupid question -- why did you do this? I'm sure the reason is in a post of yours somewhere, but can you restate or link in here?

And, anyone for downsides to doing this? Caveats?

Thanks!

ngarider said:

And, anyone for downsides to doing this? Caveats?

Click to expand...

We've been removing the PAIR system for the Blackbird for many, many years now.

The main benefit that removing the PAIR system is that you clean up the top end of the bike's engine for servicing, and that you will ensure that the exhaust gases in the exhaust pipe (as seen by a wideband oxygen meter) are consistent to those which are in the combustion chamber.

For the Blackbird (and I believe the FJR is fairly similar), the stock PAIR system (P)ulses (AIR) into the exhaust stream from the air filter housing. During use, the engine is pumping hot, inert gases with (possibly) surplus fuel into the exhaust. Without a suitable gas to burn, the fuel makes it's way out the exhaust tip, unburned.

This, according to the EPA, is bad.

So, what Honda and many others have done is allow fresh clean air to pass thru the valve cover and cylinder head, controlled by a reed valve which opens on exhaust valve closing, into the exhaust port, to mix with the exhaust gas and surplus fuel and burn (since the exhaust gas is hot) the remaining fuel.

This creates:

1. Less CO in the exhaust pipe.

2. Exhaust pipe AFR (air/fuel ratio) is not consistent with the combustion chamber.

So, no performance benefit, other than you can tune the engine more accurately since there is less discrepancy between the exhaust system and combustion chamber gases. The larger benefit, quite frankly, is maintenance-oriented: there is less crap in the way when working in this area of the engine bay.

Eliminating the annoying decell popping is a secondary benefit.... I have stock exhaust line on my '03 FJR, so I don't really experienced much decell popping anyway. My 2008 Hayabusa, OTOH, has the 4-2-1 Yoshimura exhaust system, and decel pops like crazy. I am keen to do this mod to the Busa.... I'll wait till after the Utah 1088 this coming weekend.

Of course. Unmetered air. Thanks Dale.

Dude!

That engine is waaaaay too clean! Perhaps even gay?

Nice write-up.

Now all you need is a set of block off plates!

v65 said:

Now all you need is a set of block off plates!

Click to expand...

V65,

I chose this as a cheaper alternative to the block off plates.

SkooterG,

Thanks..I think :blink: .

Warchild,

Nice sum up!! Exactly.... I did this mainly in preparation to using my wideband 02 sniffer for tuning. With this system in place my wideband 02 sensor/sniffer would give me very incorrect readings. Not good for tuning!! I have to say that it is really nice to not have the decel pooping also!!

WW

Since my bike is in a million pieces waiting for parts from Japan, I will do this as well before re-assembly.

In the Bandit world, Dale Walker over at Holeshot had a nice set of block off plates. I was disappointed to see he doesn't offer them for the FJR.

Does anyone have PAIR block off plates for the FJR?

Wicked Webby said:

Click to expand...

I see six hose fittings on what's being removed, but only talk of five being plugged. Did I miss something? Also, does the SMOG connecter just stay unused?

LDRydr said:

I see six hose fittings on what's being removed, but only talk of five being plugged. Did I miss something? Also, does the SMOG connecter just stay unused?

Click to expand...

In the picture you have, the upper left one connects to the Cali models and is already plugged on non-Cali models. The other four on the top are one for each cylinder, and the one down on the bottom of the picture is for the air box for a total of 6.

LDRydr said:

Wicked Webby said:

Click to expand...

I see six hose fittings on what's being removed, but only talk of five being plugged. Did I miss something? Also, does the SMOG connecter just stay unused?

Click to expand...

Ithink the answer to your question is the note in the bottom foreground of pic #2.

Thanks Pony and Jekirby for pointing that out. The electrical plug is left unplugged.

WW

Wicked Webby said:

7) Here are all five of my hose's plugged and all ready to get installed.

Click to expand...

Any reason not to just use large rubber caps instead of the hose and plug?

SvBandit,

The 2 hardware stores I went to did not have large enough heavier duty rubber caps (that was my original plan). Only some vinyl ones. Just chose to do it this way.

WW

'Scuse me, but why go to all the trouble of plugging everything like that, when plugging just the inlet tube from the airbox will have exactly the same affect? Its common in the cruiser world to 'marble' the intake tube. My Mean Streak for instance, has a standard cat eye marble shoved into the intake tube at the plenum = no more popping.

Well...

Where do I begin....

Go back and re-read Post's #5 and #9.

WW

Thanks for this most excellent post, WW.

Whenever I get around to reinstalling my Holeshot headers on the '06 (had 'em on the '03), I guarantee I'll be referencing this thread......or perhaps looking it up on FJRTech.com :thumbsupsmiley: