Stripped bolt and fix

One of those things I think only happens to newbies: I was trying to install Brodie's ignition fix and tried to unscrew the two hex bolts that hold the gas tank to the frame. Both stripped out, despite careful use of hex wrenches, then torx wrenches, then vice grips and screw drivers and pretty much everything else I could throw at it after 2 days of sitting with penetrating oil. Son of $#@%^! This is an 08 with less than 2k miles and only purchased in Sept.

First, after trying to pound in an overize hex/torx, I resorted to JB weld, glooping it up with some cheap hex bits that I hoped to then unscrew once the weld compound set. Didn't work, the compound never hardened sufficiently.

After lots of web research, I drove down to Ace Hardware and bought these two items: screw extractor



and bolt extractors



Started with the bolt extractor. I inserted the right size over the top of the bolt, and pounded on it with a hammer until it grabbed the narrow thin edges and then I slipped a socket over the bolt extractor and carefully cranked it back out. The bolts looked like this when I got through:



Here's a pic of the extractor, notice the many tapered edges that gripped the sides:



So how did it happen? Take a look at the bolt holes where the tank bracket lines up with the frame.



Near as I can tell, when I went to install the two bolts last time I had the tank up, I didn't tighten the bolt at the rear of the tank, so I could more easily line the holes up. But doing so meant that the bracket was pulled down by the weight of the tank when I was tightening the bolts, which caused the threads of the bolts to grind against the bracket when they were tightened, flatting them out and making it impossible to then back them out later on, which resulted in my stripping the heads.

Posting this in case it happens to someone else, then at least you will know a quick method of getting the bolts off. The bolt set was only $20.

Hudson said:

Click to expand...

Hey, this would look good framed. "Still Life of Stripped Button Hex Bolt" Definitely not my avatar, though.

Nice post and pics Hudson. FYI - Gen I bikes have a normal hex head bolt with a 10mm head in those locations.

Oh yeah, and you might want to consider adding an impact driver to your tool collection. Great for stuck/friggin tight phillips screws on the foot peg rubbers and brake rotor bolts, etc.

Hudson - glad to see you were able to get them out. :clapping: One thing you want to do is loosen the bolt at the bottom of the tank that it hinges on. That will allow you to shift the tank forward so the holes line up. Then install the new bolts with antiseize since they are dissimilar metals. Then re-tighten the bolt you loosened at the bottom of the tank.

Thanks for sharing this; I'm always looking for new tools "just in case". Sorry you had to go through all the aggravation, but you were able to redeem it by sharing with us so all was not lost. Again, I appreciate the post.

Looks like a dog chewed on them! LOL. I hate it when I have to pull out the "special tools". Good post to share.

Oh those bolts are still good..... :blink:

AuburnFJR said:

Hudson - glad to see you were able to get them out. :clapping: One thing you want to do is loosen the bolt at the bottom of the tank that it hinges on. That will allow you to shift the tank forward so the holes line up. Then install the new bolts with antiseize since they are dissimilar metals. Then re-tighten the bolt you loosened at the bottom of the tank.

Click to expand...

Great call on the anti-seize compound, I would have missed this.

Would agree with everything except the loosening up the rear part, unless I had a good grip on the tank whilst I was tightening the top bolts, the weight of the tank (especially when full) pulls on the bracket, making it somewhat more likely of repeating my mistake. Tonite, I lined the holes up, then tightend the bottom bolt once I had good alignment, then reinstalled the bolts now that the holes were lined up.

Auburn, didya get your ignition fix installed? Was pretty easy, hope this turns out to be great preventative medicine.

Hey Vesparado, look in the classifieds, there is a slightly used set of tank bolts for sale, cheap.

Aw, that will just buff right out!

Glad you were able to get it off without scarring up the tank.

Brodie

Hudson said:

Auburn, didya get your ignition fix installed? Was pretty easy, hope this turns out to be great preventative medicine.

Click to expand...

Not yet, I have several little things I'll get to later this winter. Got other woodworking projects that i am working on now.

Hudson said:

.....then tightend the bottom bolt once I had good alignment.....

Click to expand...

Good thing you remembered the tightening part on that long bolt because if you don't tighten it, the nut will fall off somewhere going down the road. :angry2: Don't ask me how I know this. But even with the nut missing, the bolt can't fall out so the tank will still be mostly secure. BTW, they make self locking nuts in the exact size for this application that won't fall off if you forget to completely tighten that long bolt. Again, don't ask me how I know this. B)

And ditto on the impact driver that OCFjr mentioned. I bought one from Kmart back in my poor college days to work on my motorcycle. They are indispensible for stuck screws like you had. Sears has a nice one like THIS

Why n'the heck did they change the old style bolt to the hex style? Well, it's good to know ha ow to manage those frustrating situations, so thanks.

You know, for all the Gen II improvements, that is, curved radiator, improved cockpit airflow, moving the passenger pegs, and so on, it seems as if there are some items that weren't broke, but that the Yamaha engineers "fixed," anyway, to no advantage. I'm talking about the bugsy ignition switch, the stiff throttle return spring, abrupt fueling, and maybe some others that I forget just now. Now, it's the fuel tank bolts. WBill

Dude, I am so glad I stumbled on this thread. I too removed those bolts as I'm do some winter farkling and noticed the axact same misalignment. My tank is full so the weight is really pulling it down. I'll have to make double-damn-sure that when I reinstall these bolts, that everything is aligned properly.

Thanks for posting. :clapping:

Hudson said:

The bolts looked like this when I got through:

So how did it happen? Take a look at the bolt holes where the tank bracket lines up with the frame.

Near as I can tell, when I went to install the two bolts last time I had the tank up, I didn't tighten the bolt at the rear of the tank, so I could more easily line the holes up. But doing so meant that the bracket was pulled down by the weight of the tank when I was tightening the bolts, which caused the threads of the bolts to grind against the bracket when they were tightened, flatting them out and making it impossible to then back them out later on, which resulted in my stripping the heads.

Click to expand...

I would disagree with your analysis of how the bolts' allen heads rounded out. Looking at the top picture in my quote, I see no evidence that the threads were misshapen in any way. I believe that is what you were saying caused it, right? I'd say the heads on these POS bolts is just too soft is all. Ditch them and get some decent (harder) bolts with hex heads and be done with the problem.

Last night I broke the head off one of those two tank hold down bolts when putting the tank back after replacing the spark plugs. I've tinkered on a lot of bikes and I don't remember ever wrestling with a gas tank the way I have to with the FJR. Damn I was pissed! Some super engineering work there.

QUOTE (RAVENRIDER @ May 16 2009, 04:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Last night I broke the head off one of those two tank hold down bolts when putting the tank back after replacing the spark plugs. I've tinkered on a lot of bikes and I don't remember ever wrestling with a gas tank the way I have to with the FJR. Damn I was pissed! Some super engineering work there.

Had you slackened the tank's rear nut? (Click on image for larger view)

Great topic - I just did the same thing.

Those little hex-bolts are made with a soft metal, and strip easily.

Just found this ! And I thought it was just me that had to use extractors. Went thru the same proceedure with trox, allen heads, hammer, etc. Had to grind the end off one EZ out to finally get it to fit/grip. Yes, the metal in the POS bolts is too soft, replaced mine with some Phillips heads, of all things. If I find a suitable replacement at Grainger, I'll post up

FYI..........Sears has those extractors on sale quite often for 50% off and you can get the set for $9.99. I snatched up the hex, bolt and drill screw extractor sets the last go around.

They sure are handy. Glad that you were able to work things out.