Pelican 1550 mounting options

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PhilJet09

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I'm hoping to get my bike by the end of the week and have starting buying the necessary farkles. I've decided on the Pelican 1550 for a topcase, now I just need ideas on how to mount it. Pictures would help a lot since I don't really have a bike to look at yet. Thanks.

 
I just mounted a Pelican 1520 on my FJR, using a combination of the instructions in these two posts:

Warchild mounted an aluminum plate to his Peli, and mounted that in turn to a SW-Motech rack. After problems with his rear sub-frame, Matt mounted his Peli to his OEM rear rack, which distributes the loads over more points.
In my version, I used a 12"x12"x1/8" 6061 aluminum plate as the main support. I drilled 1/4" holes into the four corners of the OEM rear rack, drilled equivalent holes in the aluminum plate, and countersunk the holes in the top of the plate. The bolts pass through the plate, then through 1/2" sections of heavy-duty fuel-line hose (like in Warchild's version), which dampens the vibrations coming through the bike. The bottom of the hose sections sit on the rack. Underneath the rack, I use large fender washers, bent slightly to conform to the bottom of the rack, and nylon-bushing locknuts. (I actually drilled two sets of holes in the plate: one set lets me mount the case with the opening to the rear, and other set lets me mount it with the opening to the left side of the bike.) One of the bolts holding the plate to the rack has a hole drilled at the bottom, and I use a small combination lock to prevent someone from removing the plate and case from the bike.

To mount the Peli to the aluminum plate, I drilled four holes in the plate 40mm in from each corner, and drilled equivalent holes in the bottom of the Peli case itself. I tapped the holes in the aluminum plate, and use button-head M8 screws from inside the case into the tapped holes, with nylon fender washers between the screw head and the case.

I mostly use the Pelican case for longer rides and/or rallies, so I wanted it to be easy to remove. To take the case off the plate, you just open the case and unscrew the four bolts. (I got some black button head bolts and some thumb-nuts to cover the holes in the bottom of the case - they work great.) To remove the plate from the bike, you unlock the one bolt, then unscrew the four bolts. I found some button caps that are close to the same color as my '05, so when the plate's off the bike I put on some smaller bolts with the bolt caps for a cleaner look.

I got the travel bag insert - a nice, heavy-duty nylon bag that fits perfectly in the 1520. For non-rally rides, I use this for extra packing space.

Purely in the interest of science, I've done some tests at FJR nominal speeds with the bag mounted so the opening is to the rear, and the case doesn't seem to affect stability of the bike to any noticeable degree.

 
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Anybody else? Anyone with pictures?

I won't get my bike till the end of the week at the earliest...this waiting is driving me crazy. I need something to occupy my mind.

 
You could buy a Tanji fuel cell on ebay and use that for mounting the Pelican :unsure:

tanjion001.jpg


 
Anybody else? Anyone with pictures?
I store technical pictures of my FJR here.. The link previously mentioned by tcfjr includes some, but there may be more.

I didn't pipe up earlier because my option was centered on a Gen 1 tail and that I didn't have any issue with drilling holes in it. My bike crossed from show queen to work whore tens of thousand of miles ago. ;)

 
Here's mine with pictures.

First the hardware a 12x16 1/4 inch aluminum plate. This is larger than some but with this size you don't need to counter sink the attachment bolts because the little feet on the bottom of the Pelican case raise it up. Bolts and spacers.

IMG_2460.JPG


Remove the three bolts on the OEM rack.

IMG_2461.JPG


Plate fitted.

IMG_2463.JPG


IMG_2465.JPG


Four sets of these to attach the Pelican to the plate.

IMG_2469.JPG


IMG_2475.JPG


IMG_2476.JPG


Mounted.

IMG_2474.JPG


Locked.

IMG_2485.JPG


Loaded.

IMG_2479.JPG


I actually carry cameras in mine since it's a camera case :blink: I didn't feel the need to find a way to lock the case to the plate as some others have. I used nylock nuts for that so you need to have a screw driver inside the case to unscrew them. I've also go another block of foam, the 1550 comes with 2, set up for rallying or you can pull the foam out and use all the space.

 
I didn't pipe up earlier because my option was centered on a Gen 1 tail and that I didn't have any issue with drilling holes in it. My bike crossed from show queen to work whore tens of thousand of miles ago. ;)
My Gen I is just entering its whoring phase, but plugging the holes in the OEM rack with bolts and a matching color screw cap makes her think she's still pretty.

 
I really like the Tanji tank, but it looks very expensive. I can't find any for sale, short of actually calling him, which I'm pretty sure I can't buy this year. Anybody know about what one of these costs?

 
I really like the Tanji tank, but it looks very expensive. I can't find any for sale, short of actually calling him, which I'm pretty sure I can't buy this year. Anybody know about what one of these costs?
You're in the company of many who admire that tank.

They have not been in production for a few years now, IIRC two runs were made and that was it. The original, the first one made, was sold by the designer: Dr. Tanji on Ebay and followed here ...not many weeks ago. (clicky here)

Went for considerably less than many of us thought --went to forum member: mehaffydr ....and yes, many of us hate him out of jealousy.

 
I'm kinda surprised that nobody has picked up on his design and continued producing them. I'd buy one and it sounds like others on here would as well, it's a great idea. Why did he quit making them?

 
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