ISO Brodie's harness or equivalent gen 2 fix

If I had the dimensions for this harness I could make one, I have all the correct connectors.

Showcase, I too came accross that seller on the Brodie Harness. I asked for a picture and he supplied a screenshot of a old dirty harness off of some

If you don't have a plug and play, ground harness at this point you don't need it. All you need to do is cut out the S6 spider under the glovebox, solder the wires together, also solder in a wire that will reach from the S6 wires to the battery neg term. This will take care of the S6 and take enough load off the S4 that it should be ok. Also, it should have the Yamaha fix on the S4 at this point, but even if it doesn't, I don't think it will be needed if you take the S6 direct to battery.

If you would be so kind to reply, who wrote above regarding cutting the S6 and running a wire back to the neg battery? Is there a ground under the glove box that is insufficient so running the ground is a better idea?


anks and thoin the knows please

S-6 is under the glove box these lil buggers are hard to find.S-4 is by the left frame rail up above the cooling pipe.If you need some pictures I have some I can e mail to you . My e mail is [email protected]

S-4 and S-6 are the main culprits.DO not cut wires, Get the female plugs and make a harness its a much better situation .

I have found ALL of the attachment plugs finally.To insure they were the correct ones I ohm out every plug from one to the next from start to end, Start being at S-1 by the Air Filter and continuing on to S-1 and S-4 Etc.S-1 was located as published.S-2 and S-3 were located as published.I did not hook to the one with BLUE/BLACK wires.I found S-4 located to the far right of published location.It has BLACK BLACK/YELLOW wires.There is a picture of it.I ohm it out and it was part of the loop It also had the bridge connection on it ( Metal bridge) so I am assuming this is correct.S-6 was located down by the storage panel
(glove Box) S-7 was located by the left headlight( hard to get to this one) Behind headlight relay.S-8 was located by the right headlight by the outdoor temp sensor.Final is the negative battery terminal. ALL wires to the connectors are BLACK with yellow hash on them if you see black and white or blue do not connect to them.pics to follow.

S-1 by air filter
S-3 by fuel rail S-2 is NOT used it has blue wires.
S-4 left side up by the frame right at the bend mine was cut and soldered as it had been repaired prior to my ownership.No picture for that one as it did not have a plug on it.
S-6 under glove box
S-7 behind headlight relay on the front of fairing You have to dig for this on AND the one on the right side
S-8 by the outside air temp sensor buried by the headlight gotta dig for this one aslo.

road runner said:

If you don't have a plug and play, ground harness at this point you don't need it. All you need to do is cut out the S6 spider under the glovebox, solder the wires together, also solder in a wire that will reach from the S6 wires to the battery neg term. This will take care of the S6 and take enough load off the S4 that it should be ok. Also, it should have the Yamaha fix on the S4 at this point, but even if it doesn't, I don't think it will be needed if you take the S6 direct to battery.

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I disagree. After 10 yrs it was my S4 that crapped out. I removed the S6 while fixing it. https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/the-ground-spider-comes-home-to-roost.120578/#post-909154

That's OK. In stock form the S4 is the first to melt usually.

The S6 is going thru the S4 in stock trim. Making the S4 have the most current going thru it. The S6 had the next highest current going thru it.
If the S6 was run to directly to battery, then the current on the S4 will be much lower without the headlights going through it.

So, I'm thinking if the S6 was taken directly to battery then the S4 would be much lower current and would be fine.
In stock form then yes, the S4 will melt.

Mine was delivered to Dan on 3/7/2022 so it's no longer available.

wes_van said:

If I had the dimensions for this harness I could make one, I have all the correct connectors.

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Could you still make this ground harness?

Crystalholt said:

Could you still make this ground harness?

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Try sending Brodie a personal message. There's a mail icon near the upper right called "Conversations".

I bought his last one years ago. Back then he said he wasn't going to make any more since Yamaha had come out with a recall fix. I can't imagine him going through the hassle as demand would be very limited.

SkooterG said:

I bought his last one years ago. Back then he said he wasn't going to make any more since Yamaha had come out with a recall fix. I can't imagine him going through the hassle as demand would be very limited.

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Mine is a 05 & not part of the recall.

Crystalholt said:

Mine is a 05 & not part of the recall.

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The "Brodie" ground harnesses were / are designed for the Gen2 FJRs (2006 - 2012) which have OEM wiring harness grounding issues through the "Spiders".

According to your intro post, you have a Gen1 2005 FJR.
The Gen1 FJRs (2001-2005) have a different wiring harness and are not nearly as susceptible to the "Spider Bite" condition as the Gen 2s.
Not to say there can't be wiring issues on any vehicle that contains wire. (Looking at you Lucas).

Old fashioned tricycles / bicycles / unicycles / Radio Flyers / soap box racers / skateboards / roller skates / etc. (without batteries) don't usually have wiring problems.

dan

I didn’t realize it was a different harness. I search the net about my bike completely cutting off while driving & this is what I’ve come up with. I’m tearing it apart this weekend to see what I can come up with for the grounding issue.

Crystalholt said:

Mine is a 05 & not part of the recall.

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Good morning Crystalholt

I’m responding publicly to the PM you sent me:

“Fjr harness”​

“Brodie,

I’ve searched online and keep on seeing your name pop up, but that harnessed to ground everything separately for the FJR 1300. Mine is a 05 and doesn’t have any recalls and I got stopped in the middle of traffic last week and think that I need to get one of these harnesses, anyway, that you could make me one ? This is my first bike in 30 years and trying to do this stuff solo.
Thank you for your time,
Crystal Holt”


Crystal,
I made two different harnesses way back when the 2nd Gen. bikes were still new. The Grounding Harness, which picks up six grounding junctions found throughout the bike, provided a secondary path back to the negative battery terminal, thereby minimising the possibility of a thermal runaway due to resistance from oxidation at the various grounding shunts (spiders). Your ‘05 FJR has a different harness configuration from Yamaha, and is not a candidate for this Grounding Harness. However, there is a multi-connector between the main harness and front sub harness that was susceptible to a corrosion related issue, and would be worth looking at.

I also made an Ignition Relay Harness, which predated the Grounding harness. This Ignition Relay Harness did not fix a faulty switch, it was designed to keep a good switch working well. The bikes made between 2003 and mid 2009 had an ignition switch with only one set of contacts that carried up to 50 amps of current that the main fuse is rated for. This single set of contacts also suffered from a thermal runaway issue, which either heated up a solder joint sufficiently to disconnect the main wire, or melted a plastic part within the switch causing an intermittent contact when turning the key. Yamaha issued a recall on the 2006 through mid 2009 FJRs to replace this ignition switch with a re-engineered design. Unfortunately not enough first Gen. bikes had this issue to be included in the safety recall.

When I had my ignition switch recall performed, that evening I pulled it from the bike and opened it up to see what Yamaha did to their design. Internally there were two sets of contacts to balance out the movement, but the original switch only used one of these. Yamaha redesigned the recall switch to utilise both sets of contacts to spread out the electrical load between them, thereby minimising any possibility of a thermal runaway situation.

You need to find out what happened to your bike last week. Did it just die in traffic? Were you able to restart it – or is it still dead? How did you get it home, did you get a tow?

Check out the wires leading to the underside of the ignition switch. This will require some wrench work to get to the plate covering them. Also, check out that multi connector, which I believe resides to the left of the frame, on the outside under the bodywork. You will have to remove some bodywork to get to it.

If you end up needing an ignition switch, the best place is at your Yamaha dealer. The first and second generation (2003–2012) bikes ignition switches are interchangeable! I’m not sure about the later ones. If you go the eBay route be very careful – stay away from the really cheap ones from China, only go with the OEM ones from Yamaha. Also, be careful that you choose an intact one, with an unmolested harness; the recall switches can be identified by a yellow band around the end of the harness near the connectors (2), AND 3 wires going into the large plug: red and white wire on one side, and a tan with blue stripe wire on the other side.

Good luck with your investigation, and repairs. Feel free to ask questions here on the FJRForum, there are a lot of really knowledgeable people here who are really open to helping you.

Brodie

Brodie,

Thank you for all of that information. The bike wouldn’t start back up. I pushed it into a parking lot & came back 5 hours later with a trailer. It started right up when I got back, I tried to start the bike for 40 minutes & wouldn’t start. This has happened a few times but never in traffic. I trailered it home & going to tear it apart tomorrow to see what I can come up with. The ignition switch was already replaced before I got it, but the wires are not covered & I do park it outside. Not sure if that has anything to do with it but thought I should mention.

Thanks,
Crystal

Crystalholt said:

Brodie,

Thank you for all of that information. The bike wouldn’t start back up. I pushed it into a parking lot & came back 5 hours later with a trailer. It started right up when I got back, I tried to start the bike for 40 minutes & wouldn’t start. This has happened a few times but never in traffic. I trailered it home & going to tear it apart tomorrow to see what I can come up with. The ignition switch was already replaced before I got it, but the wires are not covered & I do park it outside. Not sure if that has anything to do with it but thought I should mention.

Thanks,
Crystal

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Good information there:

1. It happened several times before, but until then not in traffic.

2. After sitting a bit it was able to start again; this last time it took several hours.

3. The ignition switch was already replaced, but its wires are not covered.

In my experience, when an ignition switch fails it either looses a solder connection and a wire comes off the board producing a dead switch, or like I said the plastic piece inside got hot enough to cause the contact to hang up while turning the key switch on. When you start wrenching, verify if this switch is a genuine replacement switch from Yamaha. Look for the 3 wires going to the 2 bladed connector.

Intermittent electrical issues can be tricky. If possible, take some pictures and share them here. Look for evidence of heat damage on the connectors and wires. Look for green corrosion in the connectors. Check out your main fuse for these issues. I just recently had problems with the main (50 amp) fuse on my ‘08. Does anything smell like overheated / burning electrical smell.

Good luck, and keep us updated.


Brodie