For those using Murphs rider peg lowering kits - rear brake and shifter

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kdclaiborne

2013 Yamaha FJR1300A, 1999 Honda GL1500C Valkyrie
FJR Supporter
Joined
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Prosper, Tx
Just installed Murphs rider peg lowering kit (https://murphskits.com/yamaha/) and realize the kit extends both pegs outward about 2", so now the rear brake pedal (I adjusted a bit downward) and shifter are considerably inward and initially seem a bit awkward, i.e. like I have to angle the front of foot inward for both. What have any of you done to adjust or extend the brake and shifter outward a bit to compensate?
 
Ok, here's my update and what I've done to resolve the "issue" with Murphs FJR peg lowering kit moving the pegs out approx 1.5" and causing the shifter and rear brake to be considerably "inboard" and having to "pigeon toe" shifter and brake.

Rear brake pedal extender
Bought a used brake pedal on eBay $43 shipped
I used this Rear Brake Lever Extender
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805779527868.html $13 shipped
Had to use a dremel and enlarge space for OEM pedal (opening needed to be longer). Could have cut the eBay OEM pedal off about 1/4", but decided not to adulterate.
Gives you only about .6", but it helps and was an easy and visually aesthetic mod and easily undone.

Shifter extension
Bought a used shifter on eBay $19 shipped
Cut the toe shifter rod off with a grinder cutoff wheel flush with shifter arm
Used 1/4" drill bit (17/64" is recommended for 8mm tap) to drill out toe shifter rod
Tapped toe shifter rod hole with 8mm tap using $22 Harbor Freight Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
For now, threaded a hex head 70x8mm bolt and used 2 nyloc nuts, one on each side, to secure 8mm bolt toe shifter. Will look for 70x8mm stainless button head allen bolt
Used these 2 toe shifter rubber covers $7 shipped.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQVSZ427?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details.
Cut both so ribbed pattern matched and they covered the length needed. You can't tell it's not 1 piece.
Note: The new rubber toe piece looks like a smaller diameter in the pic due to it being held lower than OEM. It is almost identical diameter.

I had the brake pedal extension done about 1-2 weeks ago and tested. Very happy with the results of this low cost and simple solution. I swapped the original shifter with the new extended one and went for a short 25 mile ride yesterday and it was VERY MUCH WELL WORTH the work.

Parts
Total cost for both brake and shifter parts, $82
Tools
Harbor Freight Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set $22 (I've had this as well as an SAE/US set for several years and they have more than paid for itself on several projects)
Amazon Mini Rotary Drill Press $60 shipped (always like buying tools that I could have used before and will be useful in the future). When drilling out the original toe peg rod, I wanted to make sure the hole to be tapped was square/perpendicular.
 

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I just installed the lowering kit and after taking it for a ride I noticed the 'pigeon toe' effect also.....I probably will do the same as you...Thank you for posting this,!
 
Ok, here's my update and what I've done to resolve the "issue" with Murphs FJR peg lowering kit moving the pegs out approx 1.5" and causing the shifter and rear brake to be considerably "inboard" and having to "pigeon toe" shifter and brake.

Rear brake pedal extender
Bought a used brake pedal on eBay $43 shipped
I used this Rear Brake Lever Extender
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805779527868.html $13 shipped
Had to use a dremel and enlarge space for OEM pedal (opening needed to be longer). Could have cut the eBay OEM pedal off about 1/4", but decided not to adulterate.
Gives you only about .6", but it helps and was an easy and visually aesthetic mod and easily undone.

Shifter extension
Bought a used shifter on eBay $19 shipped
Cut the toe shifter rod off with a grinder cutoff wheel flush with shifter arm
Used 1/4" drill bit (17/64" is recommended for 8mm tap) to drill out toe shifter rod
Tapped toe shifter rod hole with 8mm tap using $22 Harbor Freight Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set
For now, threaded a hex head 70x8mm bolt and used 2 nyloc nuts, one on each side, to secure 8mm bolt toe shifter. Will look for 70x8mm stainless button head allen bolt
Used these 2 toe shifter rubber covers $7 shipped.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQVSZ427?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details.
Cut both so ribbed pattern matched and they covered the length needed. You can't tell it's not 1 piece.
Note: The new rubber toe piece looks like a smaller diameter in the pic due to it being held lower than OEM. It is almost identical diameter.

I had the brake pedal extension done about 1-2 weeks ago and tested. Very happy with the results of this low cost and simple solution. I swapped the original shifter with the new extended one and went for a short 25 mile ride yesterday and it was VERY MUCH WELL WORTH the work.

Parts
Total cost for both brake and shifter parts, $82
Tools
Harbor Freight Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set $22 (I've had this as well as an SAE/US set for several years and they have more than paid for itself on several projects)
Amazon Mini Rotary Drill Press $60 shipped (always like buying tools that I could have used before and will be useful in the future). When drilling out the original toe peg rod, I wanted to make sure the hole to be tapped was square/perpendicular.
Glad to be of any assistance
 
Crazy, I'm pretty impressed with both solves. I don't use the rear brake much, but I'd sure like to try your solution for the shifter. Would you be good enough to share what/where/how that shifter peg you used is, and how it attached.

TIA,

-d
 
The shifter mod consists of drilling out the original toe pad rivet and replaced it with a highway peg found on eBay. The highway peg is approximately 1" diameter by 4" long.
Make sure to loctite the bolt securing the highway peg to the shift arm.
About a year later I extended the arm about an inch to allow room for my riding boots. If you want more information PM me and we can talk in more detail.
 
Ah, yet another mod I’ve found done to my FJR I didn’t know was done. I swear I find things weekly! I thought this was symptom of my small feet and hips *facepalm*
 
Here's what I did on the brake pedal. I bought a damaged brake pedal off of eBay for a few bucks and cut off the pad. I used a belt sander to grind down the pad so the pad teeth would line up and placed a scrap piece of aluminum underneath the pad to tie both pieces together.
 

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