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Hi all, I've had a problem with the throttle being a bit jerky on low revs after a lot of searching and working I think I've narrowed it down to the TPS. I changed the plugs and did a Throttle Body Balance and the problem was still there. I have heard tell that the TPS can develop a fault. So my...

Direct quote from the Haynes manual regarding Throttle position (TP) sensor On 2013-on models, position the sensor and lightly tighten the screws. Connect the sensor wiring connector. Simultaneously press and hold the TCS and RESET buttons on the instrument cluster, then turn the ignition ON...

It's is a bit different with the Gen 4 (2013) bikes Gen 3 to the American market. It's button pushing and turning on the ignition, found it in the Haynes manual.

Can someone point me towards the How To TPS Calibration please.

So the answer is put a pair of sensible shoes on the bike instead of a saddle

That it's not as I found out. So as I said anything in the 15 to 25 range depending on your preference for a bit softer or a bit harder would be fine. At least we now have the data to make an informed choice.

The French seat looks to be significantly wider just where you need it to be narrower if you have short legs like me.

Trust me the difference between an oil in the 15 - 25 range is like night and day to the oil I bought at 47 viscosity. The bike was unridable, I was out for about 20 minutes and couldn't wait to get home. The viscosity is taken at 40 degrees centigrade, so unless you live in a really hot place...

Update: I had an email back from Yamaha telling me to ring the Technical Dept. Which I did, the young man on the phone said he was not allowed to send me a Technical Data sheet but was happy to give me the viscosity over the phone. Yamaha M1 = 18.7 Centistokes @ 40 C Yamaha 01 = 15.3 Centistokes...

I got in touch with the FJR Club workshop here in the UK and they sent me the Motorex Racing Fork Oil 2.5W which has a viscosity of 14.6 and it feels just the way it did with the Yamaha original oil. The FJR Club workshop did some extensive research and found this to be the closest to the...

Thank you for all your help. I've got it sorted now, spring and valve slid into the tube, what a numpty I am Went out into the garage got the tools out whipped off the fork put the valve in the right place and the right way around put the tools away all in an hour and five minutes. I have...

Thanks for the photo, I'll post up a pic of mine as soon as I can. So it's spring first and point down. Any Idea about a 2013 bike?

Ah, I see you may well be right, which way are they inserted? Does the pointy bit go down the tube first, followed by the spring or spring then pointy bit and which way up does the pointy valve go.

It was part 37, I didn't disassemble it, the valve and spring just fell out when I took it off so I din't have a chance to see how it went in. I have looked for a drawing but the Yamaha drawing doesn't show the valve and spring. I put the pointed end into the top nut followed by the spring...

It was the pointed bit and tiny spring that goes in the top nut assembly.

I changed the fork oil today and the rebound damping valve and spring plopped into the oil. Can anyone tell me which way round they go back into the top nut please.

Any other ideas gratefully received.

Thank you that has given me the seed of an idea.

That's what I've been saying all along

The Motul 5W factory line is the fully synthetic and is the closest to the Ohlins R&T43. Without the exact figures from Yamaha I have been working on the assumption that the M1 is the same or damn close to the Ohlins (19 cSt). My choice would be the Motul 5W (18 cSt) or possibly Silkolene 02...