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Ok so here's a little update; I did some of the tests like you said and I DO get a relay click when shifting from neutral to first and back, however I'm not getting ANY relay clicks when connecting/disconnecting the clutch or the sidestand wires as you indicated above regardless of neutral or...

Wow, thank you very much for taking the time to type all this out, it's greatly appreciated! I'm getting pretty frustrated with it and this helps me slow down and think things through better. I haven't been able to go out to the garage in a few days but hopefully tonight while I'm powder...

Ok, yeah I checked codes 20 & 21 but all they tell me is "ON" or "OFF" and I am getting the correct responses for Neutral (code 21) and for the sidestand (code 20). I'm not sure right this second how to check the stored codes so I'll have to try to look that up. As for the clutch check at the...

Ok guys so I'm all done wiring and everything works fine except I'm still having some little issues with the motor being killed when put in gear so I need some people to jog my mind... I'm 99.9% sure it doesn't have anything to do with my wiring and the reason why is that the only two wires...

Not really for the design I'm going with no but everything I've done so far really hasn't been difficult, everything has gone pretty smoothly. I'm not too far from road testing and finalizing everything and then I get to take it all apart again and powdercoat everything then put it all together...

Ok guys haven’t posted for a while but I have been working. I’m in the long tedious phase of all the little details like wiring and locking things down so I can get ready to drive it. I could probably drive it by this weekend but we’re going to be out of town so it will be another week and...

good information guys! thanks. the location of the radiator will be at the same elevation as the original location so I'm not too worried about that. Keep the thoughts coming though it's really nice to get other opinions.

Yeah I think what I'm going to do is see if that old toyota pickup I pulled the steering and suspension out of has a decent heater core and yank it out and then my father in law has another junk car up at his place that I could get another core from and just hook two of them up.

Yeah good point. I'll just plant to stick with as close to the same size hose as possible and figure out a way to get a thermostat inline also. Thanks

Yes that's exactly why I wanted to move it up front (for cab heat). As far as the circulation comment, that's what I was wondering and keeping the hose diameter the same or possibly even a little smaller could potential keep the flow rate the same and still move it that far away from the pump...

I kind of figured so, the only concern I had was, is can the water pump move the fluid that far? In other words I actually wanted to route the radiator up to the front of the vehicle (approx. 9 feet away from the bike) but I'm not sure if the bikes impeller can move the fluid that far...

Well the owner is a friend of a friend and he's the owner and also a former MRA racer and knows a lot about bikes so hopefully he can pull it off but if not maybe I'll try to find out if maybe an R1 radiator will work?? I've found R1 radiators for cheap and it doesn't have to bolt to the...

Thanks guys, it's pretty exciting! My big holdup now will be the radiator. I can't seem to find any used radiators on ebay and new they are like $400. First I'm going to run it down to a radiator shop to see if they think they can fix the holes and then we'll see but if I have to buy a new...

Ok yeah I just had a bad jumper wire hooked up so it still thought the kickstand was down. So that was my first test with the shifter and clutch and all! It works perfect!! The shifter is super smooth and easy to shift too. Basically one finger shifting. That push pull cable I used was from...

Ok yeah that's how I understand it and if there's no other mechanisms for killing it then I'll have to double check everything. I have the rear wheel suspended so it's not friction and yeah the bike will move with the clutch in and while in gear. I'm headed out now to take a closer look.

Just a quick update, I got the shifter done now too. Now I'm just trying to get the damn thing to stay running when I put it in gear. I know the kickstand and the clutch both have to be up/in and I've addressed that but it still kills the motor so I'm missing something somewhere. I'll find it...

Ok guys I figured it out! So first off the spring plate was sort of the problem like I had though only it didn't get popped backward. What happened is since the pressure plate got pushed too far out it managed to get wedged up on top of one of the "teeth" for lack of a better word therefore...

Thanks for all the replies everyone. I'm probably headed out this morning sometime to go ahead and pull the clutch cover off and figure it out. I'll let you guys know what I find. also to wfooshee's comment above; actually I think there IS a hard stop for the piston, that's why I was thinking...

I guess the way I'm envisioning it, the piston is already "capable" of moving further than it needs to or else it would not have pushed the rod too far so by shortening the rod, the piston's starting position would be in further and end in the same place but with the rod being shorter it won't...

Oh he was just giving me a measurement is all no worries. Basically telling me that the rod is approximately flush with the face of the case where the slave cover bolts on and the rod on my bike is actually in quite a bit so I pretty much determined that it probably is that clutch spring plate...