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Took five years, but this thread is finally paying offbaring, er, bearing fruit. . . big time.

Not my words, but thought this would be appropriate in this thread. BTW, I'm a M1911 kinda guy. Some words to the wise. Shooting Advice from various Conceal Carry Instructors. If you own a gun, you will appreciate this.If not, you should get one and learn how to use it: • Guns have only two...

It all began with a scrambler back in '74. Rode that sweet thang EVERYWHERE! My bud had a little two-stroke Yamaha, and we'd ride all day, find a place to pull off the road, camp out, and do it again the next day. Man, those were the days. Talk about an iron butt . . some days we rode 600...

1. Bike on side stand, drain pan beneath drain plug. 2. Remove (drain) plug and (oil) filter. 3. Wait one day. 4. Replace drain pan with clean receptacle. 5. Repeat #4 daily until no oil appears in receptacle. 6. WARNING!! This may take a while. Don't forget that you're changing the oil.

Like many of those here, poser.

After spending $300 for pads, I'd go ahead and lay down another $10 for some good quality synthetic brake fluid, and flush the splooge from the hydraulics with a complete (front, rear, and clutch)fluid change. You'll also need to use some anti-seize paste when re-installing those pad pins...

Added heat issues on Gen I's may concern you if you don't like scorched legs. Less of (actually, for me, not) a prob with Gen II. You're gonna love either over that road zeppelin.

Might be prudent to wait a bit longer before checking fluid levels. Like tire pressures, I prefer to check mine stone cold (having cooled overnight) whenever practical. Don't know whether there is much advantage (or disadvantage) to any particular method, as long as ya do it regularly...

Is it Saturday yet?

Shoulda bought a superior Gen II. No blistering like with the Gen I's. ;)

I see these photo links were sitting in a notepad document: NGK Iridium spark plugs @ 24,000 miles vs. new one and and ... there was text in the thread which is still out there - somewhere. Either a design change occurred between the old and new iridium plugs (photo 1), or there's...

For my skill level and taste, I much prefer chicken strips to hamburger,raw meat or barbequed ribs. :chickawow: (Tried to resist, but couldn't.)

FOR SALE: SUPER CHEAP!!   POS 2008 Gen II, 30,000 miles, one owner. Or will trade for superior Gen I. Please PM ASAP, before I run this thing off a cliff. :close_tema: (No idea, but it sure looked cool)

RadioHowie- You really outta wear protective gear . . . . that's a fairly serious case of road rash, there, bro. :aaskull:

Did the "Fred method" when reassembling my forks after service; there was, indeed, some adjustment needed; it corrected my '08's tendency to veer to the right. :thumbsup:

Don't need no stinkin' Yammie fix; I used RR's superior grounding harness.

Some have suggested adding STP oil treatment (2 or more oz to the 4+ quarts of oil) as a means of smoothing shifting. I have recently cleaned and soaked clutch plates (they were dry) and changed oil (to Rotella T6 synthetic). Clutch "drag" has disappeared, and shifting seems to improve with...

Did the RDCUA TBS this weekend, in conjunction with Barbarian Jumper mod, on my '08. The synch wasn't off by much- the worst TB was around 15 mm off; the others all needed smaller adjustments. After setting at idle, one TB needed slight adjustment at higher RPM. Used throttlemeister to hold...

Just modified my '08 with the Barbarian Jumper over the weekend. Also, UA TBS per Fred. Reset original CO settings of 10 up 7 to 17. The difference is amazing! Great throttle response, smooth acceleration, idle, and cruising rpm. Don't know which did what, but TBS and BJM come highly...

Thanks, Fred, for the prompt advice. I'm going with your expertise. Will button her up, add some techron for awhile, and give another check at 50000. Didn't want to disturb that persnickity CCT anyway. You guys ROCK! :clapping: Will keep y'all posted. Oh, yeah- also to-do: 1) Complete...