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Since you say you've changed the clutch plates, the most likely cause would be something wrong with the clutch assembly. In fact I got this fault after I'd soaked my clutch plates, I'm not sure exactly what I'd done wrong, but I reassembled the clutch and all was well. I didn't, but I have...

Just a data point. I'm on my fourth FJR. All of them measure(d) 14.2 - 14.3 volts on the battery while the engine is running at idle (no extraneous loads), after maybe a few seconds at 13.7-ish immediately after starting.

As escapefjrtist says, removal of that centre panel is a little daunting, a fair amount of plastic flexure is needed. But it's quite do-able. Complete fairing removal pics here, should help.

Yoiks. Good catch.

A little help. I had occasion to remove panels on my 2014, essentially the same as your 2017, I used words from another forum member PapaUtah to create a pictorial, see here, a pdf of the same thing can be downloaded from here. It's not really for the faint hearted. The glovebox comes away...

One possibility that comes to mind, separate all the pages, put each into a clear plastic sleeve, they come with holes in the sleeve for putting in a ring binder. This way you can take just the pages you want to use into the garage, and the paper is protected against greasy fingermarks. Pic...

That's why I stick to the BT023. Even though it wears to a V, its handling remains good right until it reaches the 1mm indicators, when I have to change it - the law in the UK.

My experience too. If on the centre stand (very rare) I usually fill to the level plate in the filler, if on the side stand, my aim is to have the fuel level crossing the plate at its centre. No difference in range that I can detect. For what it's worth, I did once consider trying to linearise...

To try to help with your queries, the bike does fine at low speeds, the only time you need to be careful is when coming to a stop, if the bike is cornering at all it can be very difficult to hold it up. Having said that, no problem at all in stop-go heavy traffic. As for controlling all that...

My UK 2018 says every 6000 miles. Yamaha does give different recommendations in different markets for many maintenance intervals, so to be pedantic you need to check the owner's manual for your year and market.

Cut this one out, then you'll have no excuse. (Click on this one if you want it bigger)

Range on the Gen 3 is essentially useless to anyone who isn't riding a dead flat road at a constant speed the whole time. As far as I can tell. it uses the instantaneous mpg to calculate the range, which updates every few seconds, and can vary wildly from one reading to the next. A glance at the...

Further assist, I did a ball-by-ball pictorial here: https://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20090924/index.php

Water in tank? It does sound like some contamination under the fuel, lifting tank will put the fuel pick-up higher in whatever liquid is in there. Drain tank completely, put in fresh fuel.

I use engine oil in mine. Self damping, and not the end of the world if a little (I emphasise "a little") does get into the cylinder. I also have screw clamps on all four tubes that I only release when I am sure all is stable. In reality these are variable sized orifices, so I suppose did act as...

The front linked brake doesn't come on until a pressure threshold has been reached by the rear pedal. I don't know what that pressure is, but I wouldn't expect much front braking if you're trail-braking with the rear, unless you are being particularly aggressive.

Another installment.

And stationary. (Sound sensible to me.)

Saves the setting as soon as you move away from your selection or turn off the ignition while in your selection. No need to start it.

"Make sure overflow tank is to max." - Only when bike is hot. If you fill it to the max mark when cold, it will lose some coolant when it gets hot again, leaving the level around one third or half way up the reservoir. All four of my FJRs did this, other than that, none used coolant between...