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Not in my owner's manuals. I counted five with the ignition off in each manual, none of them show anything on the display. Might depend on the precise model or area, these manuals are downloaded, UK 2006 & 2010, YCC-S variant.

A picture is worth a thousand words. :giggle:

This is a picture of my 2010, ignition off. Click on image for larger view If you want it bigger still, click on the new image.

Sorry, just picking up when you said "can't", which might give the wrong impression to others. Should have used a smily. :unsure:

Erm, yes you can. That'a if you can bring yourself to close the throttle for the time it takes you push the switch.

Can't help with the canyon cage, but these pics from when I did my '06 may give you some idea.

Picture below shows the screw. Also note the holes behind, one on each fairing, they are used for screws into a bracket that holds the carbon canister (at least on my 2018). (Click on image for larger view)

Bike on centre stand, sit at one side facing fromt wheel, grasp brake rotor edge as near opposite points as you can. Try rotating it forwards and backwards with a jerking motion. Repeat other side. If you hear or feel any sort of clunk, that is most likely your noise. If so, nothing. to worry...

Check your rear brake lever is returning properly. A sticking lever will cause the ABS warning light to come on. Not saying that is definitely ypur problem, but easy to check, that bearing does require periodic lubrication.

It does have a large number of spiders, though very few for ground connections. Typically they have the same plastic cover as used on the Gen 2, which is in no way waterproof. They are all (as far as I am aware) bound to the loom or a nearby support, as shown in the image below. Click on image...

I've used WD40 extensively for cleanig all sorts, dowsn't seem to affect any of the FJR's finishes, theough I've not needed to use it inteh windscreen. Some years ago I posted up one experience here.

I cut a piece out of an old inner tube, glued it in. Experiment. Add pieces until it's tight enough. If you suspect the locking piece isn't coming out far enough, I've measured a good one. (Click on image for larger view) It measured 40.5mm (or 1.6 inches if you prefer).

Include the rear brake pedal bearing in your lubrication, well known for sticking, which at best seems to upset the ABS system, at worst to the brake binding.

My favourite front is the BT023. It handles well right until it's down to the wear bars, it's one of very few that will. Even its replacement from Bridgestone, the T32, drops off for the last thousand or so. Rear is less fussy, I usually put whatever Bridgestone my local tyre place has, the T32...

Another possibility is sticky gunk on the clutch plates. It's not a big job to strip the clutch sufficiently to clean and re-oil (most of the plates are usually pretty dry). I've stripped my '06 for soaking, my piccy guide is here, I don't think your '15 is significantly different.

I agree with some of the above, the top-box should be OEM or not there at all. I don't think the windscreen is OEM either, in my opinion it should be. For the little silhouette in my signature, I started with this (OEM touring windscreen, 50 litre top-box): (Click on image for larger view)...

I did once do this, you can see pictures of how I did it here. You can get to that buried screw with a thin screwdriver as in this pic: (Click on image for larger view) Possible, but not the right way of doing the job.

Whoops! Thank you, apologies all round. Image corrected in my post above.

(Click on image for larger view) (Edited to correct image, thank you Whooshka)

Normal behaviour. From the Owner's Manual: So not unexpected.