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Quite right. Neither does so-called conductive grease in any useful sense, its resistivity is orders of magnitude greater than any metal. All properly designed switches will wipe the contacts as they come together so that anything (contaminants or grease) is cleared and there is finally...

May be dirt in the switch. It is probably possible to disassemble the switch, there are screws on its underside. I have disassembled other switches successfully, but if you do, spread something under it to catch any springs or ball bearings (I don't think anything will fall out). Click on...

Make absolutely sure brakes aren't binding. I had an episode of binding brakes, led to warped discs. (Click on image for larger view) Disc "flat" on the bench and turned over Wrote about it here.

Stupid question, you have selected 'S' mode? I've had a 2006, 2010, 2014, and a 2018. All have very similar launches when the Gen3s were in 'S', 'T' makes for a relative sluggish response. Slight caveat, all of mine were YCC-S, but that shouldn’t make any difference.

Yes, too low. Mine starts gives bad handling anything below 38, 39 it's good, my preference 39-40 cold. For a couple of years Yamaha did recommend 39 in the front, then reverted back to 36. I have no idea why. Use 39-41.

Hey, mine never actually smoked (though I did burn the palms of my hands after a few hours on the high setting).

Your 8 ohms is right for the parallel grips, but it's 2 ohms each, not 4, for the series. A few years ago, I made my own grip heating elements for my Trophy. My little write-up might help with envisaging this, but note my assumptions on voltage and power required were different from our...

I think you misunderstand this a little. If your grips are in parallel and draw a total of 3 amps, then the total power is 3 x 12 = 36 watts, each grip has half the total current, so 1.5 amps, at 12 volts, 18 watts. To get the same power in series grips, that's still 36 watts, so still 3 amps at...

Good result. And, thanks for letting us know the outcome.

I don't think the Haynes manual comes in any guise other than UK, and only up to 2013 (not that that concerns your 2006). Having said that, in many ways it is better than the Yamaha manual, it's far more practical, tells you how to do stuff by someone who's done it on a bike taken off the...

Please be aware, this is taken from a copyrighted publication. I am not sure that hosting it on what is essentially a commercial forum web site is legal.

The three locks come with the bike, not the bags. They need to, to match the ignition key. Side cases and top-box are supplied without locks.

The FJR clutch is quite tough. I would suggest opening it up, removing the plates (no need to remove the clutch housing) and inspecting the plates before spending megabucks on a new pack. Getting to it isn't hard. I took my 2006 pack apart, near enough identical to the 2013. I described the...

Web site was down due to a power cut to my house, out of my control. Sorry about that. Should be ok now. As I mentioned in my earlier post, the security system isn't shown. The heated grips are.

I doubt there's much difference. Probably even less difference compared to the UK variant. Below is a circuit of the UK 2006/7, curtesy of Haynes. Although the bike has the same security gubbins as I think your Canadian one has, it's not shown on the circuit, probably to give the ungodly less...

/ So my presumption is that you would be repainting matte for gloss. Colour matching becomes moot. Even if you have half matte, half gloss, the colours will never look the same.

I have a OEM top box that I transferred from my previous bike to my present one. Its previous maroon colour would look very strange on my grey bike, so I took it to a local car repair shop. They colour matched it and painted it (from what you say, colour matching isn't important). It is a shop...

It's easy to check whether or not the mirror stay is broken. The mirrors should feel solidly mounted, if the stay is broken, the mirror can be moved. Replacing the stay, as others have said, is a pig of a job. Not particularly hard, but time consuming. Broken stay stripped, and the break...

Oil certainly changes its properties in use, viscosity, cleansing abilities and so on, let alone build-up of contaminants. Which is why it, and the filter, should be changed regularly.

I can't remember a single instance of a report of an FJR motor or gearbox failure due to the use of the "wrong" oil. Use it.