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I don't think that would explain your symptoms unless you were riding on very wet roads.

Agree with two wheels, most likely the front tyre. The FJR is very fussy about the front tyre. Firstly, pressure. Some model years, Mr Yamaha recommended 36psi, others years 39. Stick with at least 39 (cold). A pressure of 36 makes it feel heavy and it requires continual countersteering through...

The workshop manual calls for removal of the swing arm and manual operation of the clutch actuator for part of the bleed procedure. This is unnecessary, the same actuator movement can be achieved by cycling the ignition. I suspect the manual was written as much for factory production as...

Sorry, not so. As I said in my previous post, whichever phase is currently the most negative will be at ground (ignoring diode drops). Check the polarity of the rectifier diode immediately across each SCR. No SCR ever "sees" a negative voltage. The other two phases will be at a positive...

The lower three diodes of the 3-phase bridge rectifier connect the most negative of the three phases to ground. The other two are more positive than ground, so one or two will always be "available" to be shorted.

A bit more information into the mix. Permanent magnet alternators (as used on FJRs) have the useful property that, over their higher operating speeds, the current they can produce is almost constant, it doesn't vary with the speed. The explanation is that the stator windings are inductors...

Or use the JIS screwdriver provided in the bike's toolkit.

Access is from above, you need to remove the panel that the headlamp adjusters go through. I have some pictures from the larger job of replacing panels, try here.

If your tender isn't intelligent, designed for long-term motorcycle battery conditioning, it will kill the battery. You need something like an Optimate (there are other makes). (Click on image for larger view) If yours is intelligent and is designed for motorcycle batteries, please ignore this...

Sounds like encouraging progress. At least the cats have somewhere to laze. Hope those pots by the white one are glued down, or there might be more unforeseen expense.

Granddaughter just sent me this picture of one of her cats in its own gravity well. (Click on image for larger view) Buster in a gravity well (or on a bean-bag) Sorry, couldn't resist.

I thought they were self-adhesive, protected by a backing film. The later ones have studs passing through holes in the lid.

Use your finger to flick the finger lever back when you change down, no need for the thumb at all. I've always done it this way ever since I blew the horn a couple of times trying to use my thumb. It's probably quicker than using the thumb if your hand is properly on the grip.

For down changes, do the opposite of your up-change technique. As you change down, open the throttle a tiny bit, then back it off to where it was. Works at any rpm. Just learn the timing, also how much and how quickly according to engine load and speed. Changing down with power on ("I need a...

No argument here.

I've never delved into that area, so I don't know. I would add that, unless they've been messed about with, it's unlikely the connections to engine and frame will give problems. It's only the battery terminals that are known to occasionally misbehave.

Found this in my 2006 workshop manual, it's item 13. Seems to disappear somewhere under the crankcase, I couldn't see where the fastener to the engine/chassis is. (Click on image for the original)

It's unlikely, but it's a matter of risk against result. Loose battery connections do happen, it is certainly possible for your wire remaining with a connection whilst the original loses a good connection. I see nothing wrong with the arrangement without that additional frame-to-battery...

This wire is essentially in parallel with the original negative battery connection to the frame. Should the original connection to the frame work loose, the starter current will attempt to pass through your cable,. This risks burning your wire out and potentially a fire.

Just to add from my experience of night riding. Recently I've done very little in unlit areas, however two experiences are perhaps worth a comment. On my 2014, with its OEM halogens, I rode along a narrow, unlit, winding road with no natural light at all. No road markings, either side there...