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A long time ago I decided that I'd prefer to be embarrassed by doing a 6-point turn rather than by dropping it trying a U-turn (or fewer than 6 points)*. Particularly if there's no-one around to help pick the heavy lump up. And, yes, even if there's no-one around, I feel embarrassed. So far, my...

Not such a problem here with our traffic light sequence. 

Very occasionally after drawing up between cars. Never been a problem, even when one has jumped the green. Although I will not race anyone on the road, being ahead is the safest option when you are on the white line between two cars. 

Just for you - 2004 FJR (nearest year to 2005 that I have data for).

I installed the footguards (or foot shields as Yammy calls them) on my 2014. Possibly useful pictures (taken as part of my fairing removal sequence) start here . Click the image to get the original (may take a little while to download), click the "next" link to see subsequent pictures, click...

Firstly, I've never suffered from this problem, so my opinion is based on others' experiences. I think that having the dealer replace the sub-harness is a good thing to do, it will prevent the most common problem with these ground connectors. Obviously from this thread title there are several...

I don't remember hearing of anyone having an engine or transmission problem that could be related to oil, its type, manufacturer, viscosity or even its colour. Use whatever motorcycle oil that makes you feel good. 

Under the tank, front left (click on image for larger view).

Oh, I could make it a lot more technical, that’s the simplified version. But hopefully enough to fault-find. 

I've replied to this in another place, I'll put a reply in here as well. My take on its proper functioning: The alternator body must be connected to the battery's negative terminal for the circuit to complete, this is through the bike's chassis. The "Load" is all of the bike's electrics that...

I had one fail on my 2014. Was taking the bike in to the dealers as I was picking up my 2018. To cut the story short, he told me that he got it rebuilt before putting the bike up for sale, at a reasonable cost.  I've no idea where he had it done, all I can say is that it is possible.

This isn't the only pond that dcarver paddles in. 

I was going to reply with something about my memory, but I've forgotten what it was. 

I used a meter that has a 10 amp current range. Never run the starter motor with its current going through the meter, far too high, will blow your meter's fuse. You need a dc clamp meter if you want to measure that. I managed to do the measurements without completely disconnecting the battery...

Found the exercise I went through to measure current draw under various conditions. One video shows the current when switched to the Park position, nearly 1.5 amps! Click on the image to play. Switches to Park about 39 seconds in. Full set of images from my trials here.

Are you sure you didn't turn the key beyond the "Lock" position to the "P" position? On a Gen 2 this puts the parking lights on and allows the hazard lights to function, on my Gen 3 it allows the hazard lights to operate though the parking lights don't come on, but this may be market-specific. 

Normal when engine at idle, more so if the brake light is on. Unless it's excessive, nothing to worry about. 

Gen 3 is identical to a Gen 2 in that area.

Couple of comments, I do like the 6th gear for motorways or for dribbling along above 50 or so. I do find that, when riding on more interesting road, I rarely use 6th; 5th has quite a wide useful speed range. Of course, having a YCC-S Gen 3 the ease of flicking between gears makes the actual...

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