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Good thinking. Welcome aboard.

I haven't had to recommend this is a few years. Instead of spending your life adjusting the world to you, how about a 1-and-done solution?

Not well. You lose cornering clearance. Get thick-soled boots.

Is it done within parameters? It counts. Whining because someone can't figure out how to document it, doesn't negate those who can.

Maybe this will clear things up. https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/fjr1300-model-comparison-matrix.181562/

I do stretch my meat budget farther than I did 4 years ago.

I love me sum ribs but the dutch in me always sends me elsewhere as the meat:bone ratio can't be amortized. :ROFLMAO:

I had a report to correct the year in the title. So a definite maybe means, I'm closing the ticket.

Have you tried the Google search function for the forum with ? 😇

So... in all this shorthand, is it a 2007, 2008, or 2010?

But then you create another generation that expects to be spoon fed. Yes?

But they're still there. Right? New owners. New ideas. We just recently ran across where the rules for the For Sale area were MIA and had to be recovered/re-created.

I have my retiree health insurance AND am just now of Medicare. No way would I drop everything else to depend on that as my sole means of health care. Some places won't accept medicare because of the hoops they have to jump through and the time taken to reimburse (and at what %)? Not unlike all...

Excellent news. I tend to be a little more cautious. Others will land where they may.

I R&R the u-joint any time I service the front splines. It's too easy to skip. I also put a light coat of Mobile 1 synth marine lube on the buffed u-joint, etc. I use high moly paste on drive and driven splines from u-joint back to rear wheel splines. I also do it annually since it's easier and...

I can agree with that. Most aren't "thinner" than the FJR's (which I take as thickness between boot contact surface and underside of peg. Wider would certainly be the case, but wider on the FJR could also lead to loss of cornering clearance in some cases; not a concern for most of the GWRRA...

No need to leave if you don't want to. The camaraderie will remain.

Exactly. Why think of these things as disposable? I wouldn't go to this length every year because the flush works so well. I could see doing it maybe every 3rd or 4th year. I found that doing it once or twice a year was no great inconvenience and saved me the cost of replacing switches at any...

Annual PM is to lube the lever pivot pins (both of them). I use the same Mobile 1 lube I use for other things for the pins. Then also FLOOD the control pods on the handlebars with a contact cleaner, followed by Aerosol Spray Silicon lube (flooding the pods again to flush out crud). DO NOT use...

I wouldn't bother. You'd probably end up with similar cornering limitations. How about a fat-peg like aftermarket Wing pegs put up as highway pegs? I have like these styles in the past...