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So, for those not wanting to support the forum, there are other avenues?

The problem with muted colors on stickers is that they are a blob out past 2 feet from the bike. I think the choice is a great compromise of multiple desires from all members.

Heck, all y'all! I'm only doing a baby aspirin a day. Yet, when I poked my finger with the stapler at the range, my shooting station looked like an abattoir.

If you're really serious about op temp PSI, then Ross' guidelines are the ticket. If you're cruising along and handling and tread life are not a priority, then grab any stick gauge and test cold temps before kickstands up. My rule for all vehicles is 4 hours of stopped time to cool down enough...

Temps dropped from the 100ºs into the upper 90ºs after it rained for 5 minutes yesterday. I've been waiting for the 110ºs to break to hit the smoker but I think I'll wait until after the spike in the next few days. Keep up the encouragement. Looks super.

Great final result!

I would look at the top of the thread and follow the owners' instructions.

...Blue Earth, USA

Not to registered members. That's everyone. To paying supporters that help fund the owners.

That sure sounds plausible. I could replicate it on my GL1500 with the kill switch. Hit it with a slight pause while underway (tunnels) and flip it back on. BAM! as that raw fuel (that had been flowing while off) lit off all at once in the pipes. As for heat shielding...

I uses 15w50 too. Works in the heat of N TX summers (100º+) and is okay down to the typical winters (32º). Maybe the difference was between regular dino oil vs the full synthetic I always use?

Mine's always parked in gear so it won't roll off the side stand. So I guess I'm usually doing that without thinking about it. THEN I let it settle into slow idle.

Why do some people continue to do that whole "quote" thing? There's no shame in mentioning other forums. They exist and we all know they do.

And, waiting for fast idle to settle down to slow idle before shifting into first helps.

as the DOT in the URL!

I've used both on my 2003 FJR. From before there was a T to after.

Yup. Of more a concern than the boiling point of the DOT3/4/etc is the boiling point of water and that the DOT3/4 is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from atmo). You're doing everything I was taught to do about it (flush every other year at a minimum). One thing that caught up a friend on a ride to...

How often do you flush your hydraulics? When I hear "boiling" that's my first concern.

Good Point. Every pad swap I do an inspection and cleaning of the calipers. Every other time (or if needed sooner), I'll even pull the pots and give them a good polish with a fine Scotch Bright pad; inspecting/cleaning the dust boots, etc.

Agreed. I had a Gen1 and this is the first I knew of the Gen2. I never had any issues. All the excess in your photos was cut-and-welded with flame to prevent fraying of the ends but only after I was sure it was what I wanted. Nothing left to "flap". The rolling and tape was when testing for...