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Easy to R&R the Heli riser and check. No need to monkey with the brake line extension. With long arms you just might be more comfortable in stock position. With stock, your hips will rock forward a bit and reduce pressure on your sit bones. I’m 5-10 ish and prefer the stock bar position for that...

Northwest Iowa, SacMike. This one has your name on it! GLWS! ~G

PM sent. ~G

OE Yuasa is a sealed AGM type battery. It's considered a form of VRLA. Use your choice of smart charger, Battery Tender or Optimate are known brands. Lots of examples at Battery Stuff. ~G

Glad to read all is mostly well Harald. Scary thing to witness the event. Take care and happy hunting for a 'wing! ~G

Give yourself more time in the saddle. You're using a whole new set of muscles moving from a cruiser to FJR. Personally, I don't care for the MV or Heli risers as they cant me too upright. With a stock clamp and bars in rear position, the slight forward lean takes pressure off my a$$ and is more...

Out of curiosity, how long have you had it and how many miles have you ridden your FJR? ~G

For reference, adjusting preload on a Penske (with a threaded collar) is similar to the YSS picture. Although it's tight in there, I'm able to adjust as needed when adding a pillion. From initial preload, you'll likely only need 1 - 2 turns additional preload to support a passenger. If you...

Excellent! As you fish in the new pigtail, there's one or two loom guides that can be opened to make room for the end connections. It's tight in 'thar. ~G

Have you checked out the Eastern Beaver site? Seems like good information. Forum search also shows a couple install threads. Thread from 2022 Thread from 2014 ~G

Since you have the switch assembly, I'd replace the whole thing. Not exactly sure when the pigtail terminates, but on GEN IIIs much of the handlebar wiring connections are in the nose under the windshield. Getting to the under-windshield connections isn't too bad a job. Good luck! ~G Edit to...

Another welcome from metro Seattle! ~G

Check for pinched wires on the crank position sensor. Assuming you removed the (oil pump) cover to capture the cam chain when replacing the CCT, it's not unheard of catching wiring when reinstalling the cover. Good luck! ~G

Welcome from metro Seattle! Frankentank...cool, what's the capacity on that example? ~G

Keep wire size in mind when using a tire pump or other accessories that draw more than a couple amps. My '15 is set up with two Powerlet style plugs (near the seat lock) for higher power accessories and a standard SAE 'tender pigtail near the tank. When not in use, I stash the SAE lead between...

Welcome from Seattle-ish! Good luck with your search, lots of nice machines out there. Happy hunting! ~G

Welcome from metro Seattle! Good luck with your FJR search...be patient and the right bike will show up. If you're open to a fly-n-ride, it'll expand the market area and you'll get a nice get-acquainted ride home. Happy hunting! ~G

Welcome from metro Seattle and congrats on the new (to you) '10. Spend some time and get used to the bike, then figure out what's needed to make it yours. Attend an FJR event and you'll find no two machines the same! Good luck and enjoy the scoot. ~G

Stick with a 20A switch, it's more than adequate to handle the load. Yeah, a spare fuse is always a good idea for those "moments". Old zombie thread HERE with more information and worthwhile links. ~G

Some part of the toggle circuit touch ground? Confirm the toggle switch connections are well insulated / not chafed when turning lock-to-lock with bars. More info (?)...shooting in the dark here (pun intended)! Glad you got it running again. ~G