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I just checked the recall bulletins. the ground wire junction recall is for 2006-2009 FJR1300. The ignition switch recall is for 2006-2008, and certain 2009 FJRs. If yours is a 2010 model, those two recall’s don’t apply.

Also, look at the serial number stamped into the frame by the steering neck. When the recall is done according to the Yamaha bulletin, the mechanic is supposed to punch marks next to the serial number. If the frame isn’t stamped, then it’s most likely that the recall wasn’t done.

Lift the tank and look for the sub harness and ignition switch to identify. Go to your dealer and ask them to print out the dealer recall bulletin which has pictures and part numbers to identify new improved switch and sub harness.

Considering a Gen 2, verify with your own eyes that the recalls for ignition switch and sub harness were actually done. In my case, Yamaha records showed the recalls were done, but they never were done, and I had to do the repairs myself after getting stranded. Shady dealers can commit recall...

I bought my 2006 Gen 2 for $4500 with 38,000 miles. Now it has 77,000 miles. Bike needed a ground spider repair, new ignition switch and a clutch slave during my ownership. Other than that, just normal routine maintenance - spark plugs, air filters, oil changes, tires, valve checks with no shims...

The major advantage of the AE becomes obvious if you get stuck in stop and go traffic. It’s easy to creep along without having to wear out your left hand. Think of the difference between driving a car with a stick vs automatic transmission in heavy low speed traffic.

Bought my used 2006 AE in 2019 with 38,000 miles on the clock. Now it has 77,000 miles. Been very reliable for the last 15,000 miles. Before that, ignition switch failure, spider bites ground failure, and clutch slave cylinder sticking and causing clutch to slip.

If the engine isn’t running and the back wheel isn’t rotating, the transmission gears may not be in the correct position to allow the gear dogs to line up with the next gear’s slot. Gear dog pushing on gear dog with no place to go. If you stomp on the shift lever, the weakest part will bend, and...

Another solution is just to double shift, go from 3rd to fifth gear. My buddy does this all the time when he’s lazy on shifting his Super Tenere. With plenty of torque, you really don’t need 5 or 6 gears in the transmission. I remember when every bike had a 4 speed gearbox.

There are two things you can do to greatly improve the low speed driveability of the AE and the ease of acceleration from a stop. Adjust the clutch engagement rpm to around 1500, you can do this with the dash buttons. Get Ivan’s flash on your ECU.

If you bought the bike new, then it’s not bent shift forks since you weren’t stomping on the shift pedal. Could still be worn gear dogs, if Yamaha QC isn’t what it should be. Try this for shifting - pull the clutch, toe up and hold the shift lever up, release the clutch and then take the foot...

Gear dogs get damaged with the edges getting rounded off from the relative motion during a clutch less shift. Even bikes with a quick shifter experience more gear dog damage than by using the clutch. The damage is gradual over time and eventually will cause problems.

It could be a bent shift fork or worn sliding gear dogs. Clutchless shifts are hard on the gears and dry shifting without the engine running can bend shift forks.

My mistake, I forgot the FJR is closed loop injection. Every bike I own is open loop.

So, how does the FJR compensate for a dirty air filter? If there isn’t a mass air flow sensor, it can’t. Those plugs all look too rich to me. What voltage is measured on the TPS at idle? Any measurement showing it’s not working properly? Old bike with low mileage may need injectors removed and...

Since it’s running rich, change your air filter.

Only if the pistons rings aren’t sealing. If the valves aren’t sealing, it won’t smoke. It’s unlikely to be failed rings in all 4 cylinders on a low mileage motor.

Your spark plugs have 22,000 miles on them, change them before you overthink this.

Why wouldn’t they just take the old oil and put it in a new bottle to maximize profit with zero effort?

If the Exclusive oil is not necessary or required, why would Yamaha develop and market this new oil when they already have a shaft drive oil? Yamaha continues to market two different shaft drive oils.