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Have you spent the ~$500 to revalve and respring your Gen1 forks?

On a short ride this week, I noticed a pretty serious rebound issue on my Penske 8900 shock, and ultimately found that the rebound adjuster had backed itself completely out when I had some time to stop and check it. When I attempted to adjust it back in, I ended up with no detents until it was...

Well, we were supposed to do the rest of the Rainer loop, but Dave let me lead on the Highway 12 leg, and I blew right by the sign for Cayuse, oops! Well, we rolled over to Highway 7, then Dave picked through some back roads that were really fun and still pretty empty. I noticed through the...

Run the ring free through it, read up on the "fast starter syndrome" too, I think you'll end up with a simple problem that's easy enough to fix.

You should have more faith in Japanese bearings. (A lot more faith actually)

If you do the southern loop, I'd be happy to meet you in Maple Valley at the Starbucks near where 169 and 18 meet, say around 7:45. -Paul

Man, search terms are everything! I've wondered if such a tool existed, as I have been forced to use a plastic protractor or try to use my giant Bosch digital protractor (on car harmonic balancers), or attempt to estimate/calculate manually.

I plan to replace my cam chain at roughly this time next year, I'll have to try to remember to take photos of the before and after timing marks. One could also use some 1/4" dowel to manually check TDC on the crank vs. marks on the sprocket aligning properly.

Hmm, you could spend $150 for new springs and the installation kit from Race Tech and buy their valve kit for $300. Since you have leaks and used forks, figure another $100 for new bushing, seals, and fork oil. How much is this stock pair of 2013 forks? (And a set of new calipers, new brake...

Thanks for the assist Abercrombie. It looks like there were some cancellations, so hopefully I can find a spot in the next day or two.

I suddenly have spousal permission to go. Any solo riders want to split a room? (otherwise I suppose the comfort inn will do, and someone is welcome to crash with me)

I also have all of the above, but in the southerly direction from you. -Paul

I was just helping Fontaman adjust his valves on Monday, and his timing marks show the exact same behavior as yours do. As you noted, if you're a tooth off, it's pretty obvious!

This is a good idea, with the bike running, you really want to know the difference between the voltage at the battery and the voltage available at the R/R.

If anyone wants to measure that coil back EMF voltage, a decent oscilloscope will do the job (easier to find than the tool he showed). That second video is gold though, that's a lot of good information.

Has anyone taken one for the team on this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-FJR1300-FJR-1300-CLEAR-or-SMOKED-INTEGRATED-LED-TAIL-LIGHT-UNIT-/321695064883?hash=item4ae6852333:g:PUcAAOSwewJToeA5 My tail cluster sure could use a little freshening.

I had a similar issue with my rear brake, where I could bleed it and get the actuation I was looking for, but it would soften up and suck terribly after a day or two. The reservoir was also bone dry the last time I dealt with this. I spent a bunch of money on parts to rebuild the whole system...

I would test the fuel pressure regulator based on your observations.

FYI the UV reactive dye is generally available at your local autoparts store, and is most definitely the way to go in diagnosing something like this in the most time efficient manner.

A commuter bike needs to be reliable, which excludes most of the other bikes you're looking at. Try riding an FJR and a Tenere, one or the other will be exactly what you want.